KMASS993

So I've been investigating the golden rod. Not that its a enormous investment but I am curious as to why this mod isn't much simpler and a DIY. Looking at the following:

http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/993/rsshift.html

Not sure on the range of motion needed, but wouldn't it be much cheaper/easier to replace the rubber bushing in the shift mechanism with a steel/aluminum plate? Thoughts?

Kika

There is a DIY to simply put washers in place of the rubber piece, WEVO also makes a joint, which they call a Precision Shift Joint, or PSJ.

All do basically the same thing, some more elegant than others. The Golden Rod is less costly than the PSJ, and to me, the most elegant solution.

I worry that the washer solution could become loose, although I have no proof or evidence that has been the case.

kml

It think that it would be better to weld universal join (cardan joint) instead of rubber part.

You can find it in every wrench set:

http://image.ceneo.pl/data/products/...3-8-h0050b.jpg

KMASS993

Looks like the joint in FD's platinum rod.

mpruden

Although not conclusive, see how simply replacing the rubber with something rigid (washer method?) may have led to jackal's seal failure. http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/993/993_gss.html

therossinator

The Jackals Forge guy switched to a GR after a leak from the shift shaft seal. There have been several attempts for people to mod their regular rods with a universal. I don't remeber any of them now, but do a search, there are pleanty out there.

kml

It would be better to find joint that you could disassemble for welding. In other case heat could damage the grease.

I don't think that the forces during gearshift could be bigger than during normal use of that kind wrench joint, so this solution should be lifetime

therossinator

See this or this

jscott82

After doing my own conversion:
1) The transmision input is not in alignment with the shifter. You need some kind of universal or rag joint to account for the (minor) difference. Solid bushings are not a good idea.
2) Yes u-joints are inexpensive. But the magic happens when you try to mate a "standard" joint to the input of the transmision. Its not rocket science, but you need a machined part that is an exact fit with 0 slop or you are no better off(probaly worse) than the stock rag joint.

My 2 cents.

OverBoosted28

This is what I made. Very easy to do. Just make sure you have it exactly symetrical to the opposite end where shift fork connects.

OverBoosted28

OverBoosted28

I made the bolt go through the shift shaft and have a lockingnut on other end.

OverBoosted28

What I ended up doing was welding a bushing inside of the u-joint after I had it perfect to slide onto the shift shaft. Small increments of removing material until it was exact. Total cost was under $50 bucks. I think the u-joint was about $35-40 bucks. It's huge, 3/4" a bit overkill but that's how I roll :-)

ToSi

buy the u-joint here -> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...oduct=1484-001

I think it's the 5/8 <-> 3/4 but can't remember anymore. Cut, weld, add washer to retain bellows as below, then give it a coat of paint. I think the originals were plated before assembly. Or, if you're a consumer (as opposed to a producer) just buy it from FDM:

nine9six

GR seems to be an elegant, nicely made quality product!
I want one