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There are significant service life advantages to sending in your own rack for a rebuild rather than accepting a swap-out from the rebuilder’s inventory of racks.
There are significant service life advantages to sending in your own rack for a rebuild rather than accepting a swap-out from the rebuilder’s inventory of racks.
Ok, but not sure how you concluded this - what was your reasoning?
Ok, but not sure how you concluded this - what was your reasoning?
Cheers,
Mike
There are very few 993 cores floating around. Many are pulled from wrecks or cars sitting around and have had corrosion pitting on the shafts filled and smoothed by welding with various levels of precision. These repairs are points of failure as they are where the new replacement seals will have the opportunity to abrade or misshapen with the potential for earlier failure. A rack just pulled from your running car likely needs no corrosion repairs. In addition the steering shaft spline in your unit is also in perfect condition and you know the cast housing is not distorted from any collision the donor cars wrecks has been exposed to.
As all "steering rack specialists" are grouped on this thread, may I ask a question slightly out of topic?
I have somewhere in my memory that the 964 steering rack was a bit more direct (different ratio)than the one on our 993. If this is correct would it be possible to change for a 964 one on a 993?
Tks
Mine just started leaking, how long will it last like this as long as I keep the fluid fill (months or year) Also what type of fluid does it take
We have some guys here with wet racks that have been driving that way for months to years - it all depends on the extent of the leak. If its slightly moist, and does not seem to change over time, then it should be ok. Of course, no guarantees.
Try to keep from turning the rack to its limits, that will give a pressure spike in the rack hydraulics. Good practice even with a healthy rack.
Anyone know about the success rate for rebuilding the racks themselves. I am thinking about trying the rebuild myself. The price differential is huge, you can save at least $600.00 doing yourself, but the savings means nothing if after all the work you still have to buy a rebuilt unit.
I have seen a few write ups on the process, it just looks like a lot of similar looking O-rings. On a scale from 1 to 10 10 being the hardest how would you rate the difficulty level. Also anyone know the failure rate from doing yourself.
Anyone know about the success rate for rebuilding the racks themselves. I am thinking about trying the rebuild myself. The price differential is huge, you can save at least $600.00 doing yourself, but the savings means nothing if after all the work you still have to buy a rebuilt unit.
I have seen a few write ups on the process, it just looks like a lot of similar looking O-rings. On a scale from 1 to 10 10 being the hardest how would you rate the difficulty level. Also anyone know the failure rate from doing yourself.
If you follow the directions you can't go wrong and if you have any questions along the way someone here can answer almost instantly. Nothing about it is challenging per se, but it can seem overwhelming at first. I had my rebuild fail but due to my own stupidity putting in back in. KLA was great with providing me replacement seals free of charge/shipping, they really take care of anything that comes up with their product. I haven't heard of their seal kit wearing out due to use/age yet, but even if it only lasts me a couple years it is still the most economical choice out there. If you use the correct PS fluid (Pentosin CHF 202 available at O'Riley) and not the owner's manual recommended ATF, I don't see why it shouldn't last another decade or two.
If you have a leak and you want to risk it and drive it, be vary cautious of sounds when you are turning the steering wheel at low speed. If you notice any changes it is likely due to low fluid. If you fill in good time nothing will be damaged, just keep an eye(ear) on it. This is how I found out my rack needed a rebuild.
If you have a leak and you want to risk it and drive it, be vary cautious of sounds when you are turning the steering wheel at low speed. If you notice any changes it is likely due to low fluid. If you fill in good time nothing will be damaged, just keep an eye(ear) on it. This is how I found out my rack needed a rebuild.
For more context, you need to be cautiously aware of this sound because it is your power steering pump struggling. You don't want to end up having to replace the PS pump along with the rack too.
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