Cost of getting new hydraulic lifters...
#31
Race Car
Thread Starter
#32
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
again, do it yourself.
here's the instructions
car in the air, remove wheels, muffler, air box, heater blower motor, black rubber hose, engine tin, valve cover, remove the 3 spark plugs on that sector, remove rocker shaft.
take rocker shaft to bench, pull out lifter with pliers, make sure no part of the old seal is left inside, press new lifter into place, it will pop into it's seat. replace rocker arm. repeat 2 more times, replace valve cover gasket and valve cover.
move on to next sector.
if one of the rockers is hard to unscrew you'll notice the spring is being pressured by the cam. put a big wrench on the fan bolt and turn the engine some. it will be easy because you've removed the plugs. you've removed the plugs and will replace with new because you are there anyway and it is easy while the valve covers are off.
the only part that is hard is the valve cover under that friggin power steering pump, tough to get to 2 valve cover bolts.
if you have that friggin clutch vent hose that is a pain also but needs to be removed anyway with the engine tin.
you could also remove the engine mount nuts and lower the engine some inches to create space.
otherwise this is not a hard job. in fact this is just an old car not some magical special machine that needs a few grand in labor to change lifters.
no special tools, just a small torque wrench for the low torque values.
you'll want a set of ball tip hex sockets for valve covers and engine tins, hazet makes them right across the boarder in germany.
with all the money you save in labor buy quality tools that will last your lifetime.
call FD for all the parts, I'm guessing about 600 in swiss francs.
and there are tons of pictures and instructions on rennlist.
where I live there is nothing as far as parts and air cooled mechanics and 5 years ago before I discovered rennlist I would never even have known to suggest a diy. I was forced to learn how to change the oil because no shop wanted to deal with my car anymore. in fact back in 08 the lifters on my cab started ticking, I brought it to a shop that had changed the oil previously and the owner's response was not to charge me 5 grand to change lifters, he told me to sell the car!
now every time something needs to be done I search on rennlist and save hundreds in labor and spend the money on another tool. just got a mityvac cause I can't figure out a misfire. at some point if I'm stuck I can post the problem on rennlist and probably get an answer.
this isn't rocket science, its barely math.
torque settings
rocker shaft 13Nm
spark plugs 30Nm
valve cover bolts 9.7Nm
muffler to cat and tips 25Nm
muffler strap 20Nm
wheels 130Nm
spark plug diy
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...rk_Plug_Change
informative threads
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995...air-101-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ers-later.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-ticking.html
here's the instructions
car in the air, remove wheels, muffler, air box, heater blower motor, black rubber hose, engine tin, valve cover, remove the 3 spark plugs on that sector, remove rocker shaft.
take rocker shaft to bench, pull out lifter with pliers, make sure no part of the old seal is left inside, press new lifter into place, it will pop into it's seat. replace rocker arm. repeat 2 more times, replace valve cover gasket and valve cover.
move on to next sector.
if one of the rockers is hard to unscrew you'll notice the spring is being pressured by the cam. put a big wrench on the fan bolt and turn the engine some. it will be easy because you've removed the plugs. you've removed the plugs and will replace with new because you are there anyway and it is easy while the valve covers are off.
the only part that is hard is the valve cover under that friggin power steering pump, tough to get to 2 valve cover bolts.
if you have that friggin clutch vent hose that is a pain also but needs to be removed anyway with the engine tin.
you could also remove the engine mount nuts and lower the engine some inches to create space.
otherwise this is not a hard job. in fact this is just an old car not some magical special machine that needs a few grand in labor to change lifters.
no special tools, just a small torque wrench for the low torque values.
you'll want a set of ball tip hex sockets for valve covers and engine tins, hazet makes them right across the boarder in germany.
with all the money you save in labor buy quality tools that will last your lifetime.
call FD for all the parts, I'm guessing about 600 in swiss francs.
and there are tons of pictures and instructions on rennlist.
where I live there is nothing as far as parts and air cooled mechanics and 5 years ago before I discovered rennlist I would never even have known to suggest a diy. I was forced to learn how to change the oil because no shop wanted to deal with my car anymore. in fact back in 08 the lifters on my cab started ticking, I brought it to a shop that had changed the oil previously and the owner's response was not to charge me 5 grand to change lifters, he told me to sell the car!
now every time something needs to be done I search on rennlist and save hundreds in labor and spend the money on another tool. just got a mityvac cause I can't figure out a misfire. at some point if I'm stuck I can post the problem on rennlist and probably get an answer.
this isn't rocket science, its barely math.
torque settings
rocker shaft 13Nm
spark plugs 30Nm
valve cover bolts 9.7Nm
muffler to cat and tips 25Nm
muffler strap 20Nm
wheels 130Nm
spark plug diy
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...rk_Plug_Change
informative threads
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995...air-101-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ers-later.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-ticking.html
Last edited by k722070; 12-28-2013 at 10:32 PM. Reason: edit torque value
#33
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Actually, the rocker arm tq is actually 13nm, per WSM. Just did these, so fresh in my mind.
again, do it yourself.
here's the instructions
car in the air, remove wheels, muffler, air box, heater blower motor, black rubber hose, engine tin, valve cover, remove the 3 spark plugs on that sector, remove rocker shaft.
take rocker shaft to bench, pull out lifter with pliers, make sure no part of the old seal is left inside, press new lifter into place, it will pop into it's seat. replace rocker arm. repeat 2 more times, replace valve cover gasket and valve cover.
move on to next sector.
if one of the rockers is hard to unscrew you'll notice the spring is being pressured by the cam. put a big wrench on the fan bolt and turn the engine some. it will be easy because you've removed the plugs. you've removed the plugs and will replace with new because you are there anyway and it is easy while the valve covers are off.
the only part that is hard is the valve cover under that friggin power steering pump, tough to get to 2 valve cover bolts.
if you have that friggin clutch vent hose that is a pain also but needs to be removed anyway with the engine tin.
you could also remove the engine mount nuts and lower the engine some inches to create space.
otherwise this is not a hard job. in fact this is just an old car not some magical special machine that needs a few grand in labor to change lifters.
no special tools, just a small torque wrench for the low torque values.
you'll want a set of ball tip hex sockets for valve covers and engine tins, hazet makes them right across the boarder in germany.
with all the money you save in labor buy quality tools that will last your lifetime.
call FD for all the parts, I'm guessing about 600 in swiss francs.
and there are tons of pictures and instructions on rennlist.
where I live there is nothing as far as parts and air cooled mechanics and 5 years ago before I discovered rennlist I would never even have known to suggest a diy. I was forced to learn how to change the oil because no shop wanted to deal with my car anymore. in fact back in 08 the lifters on my cab started ticking, I brought it to a shop that had changed the oil previously and the owner's response was not to charge me 5 grand to change lifters, he told me to sell the car!
now every time something needs to be done I search on rennlist and save hundreds in labor and spend the money on another tool. just got a mityvac cause I can't figure out a misfire. at some point if I'm stuck I can post the problem on rennlist and probably get an answer.
this isn't rocket science, its barely math.
torque settings
rocker shaft 12Nm
spark plugs 30Nm
valve cover bolts 9.7Nm
muffler to cat and tips 25Nm
muffler strap 20Nm
wheels 130Nm
spark plug diy
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...rk_Plug_Change
informative threads
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995...air-101-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ers-later.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-ticking.html
here's the instructions
car in the air, remove wheels, muffler, air box, heater blower motor, black rubber hose, engine tin, valve cover, remove the 3 spark plugs on that sector, remove rocker shaft.
take rocker shaft to bench, pull out lifter with pliers, make sure no part of the old seal is left inside, press new lifter into place, it will pop into it's seat. replace rocker arm. repeat 2 more times, replace valve cover gasket and valve cover.
move on to next sector.
if one of the rockers is hard to unscrew you'll notice the spring is being pressured by the cam. put a big wrench on the fan bolt and turn the engine some. it will be easy because you've removed the plugs. you've removed the plugs and will replace with new because you are there anyway and it is easy while the valve covers are off.
the only part that is hard is the valve cover under that friggin power steering pump, tough to get to 2 valve cover bolts.
if you have that friggin clutch vent hose that is a pain also but needs to be removed anyway with the engine tin.
you could also remove the engine mount nuts and lower the engine some inches to create space.
otherwise this is not a hard job. in fact this is just an old car not some magical special machine that needs a few grand in labor to change lifters.
no special tools, just a small torque wrench for the low torque values.
you'll want a set of ball tip hex sockets for valve covers and engine tins, hazet makes them right across the boarder in germany.
with all the money you save in labor buy quality tools that will last your lifetime.
call FD for all the parts, I'm guessing about 600 in swiss francs.
and there are tons of pictures and instructions on rennlist.
where I live there is nothing as far as parts and air cooled mechanics and 5 years ago before I discovered rennlist I would never even have known to suggest a diy. I was forced to learn how to change the oil because no shop wanted to deal with my car anymore. in fact back in 08 the lifters on my cab started ticking, I brought it to a shop that had changed the oil previously and the owner's response was not to charge me 5 grand to change lifters, he told me to sell the car!
now every time something needs to be done I search on rennlist and save hundreds in labor and spend the money on another tool. just got a mityvac cause I can't figure out a misfire. at some point if I'm stuck I can post the problem on rennlist and probably get an answer.
this isn't rocket science, its barely math.
torque settings
rocker shaft 12Nm
spark plugs 30Nm
valve cover bolts 9.7Nm
muffler to cat and tips 25Nm
muffler strap 20Nm
wheels 130Nm
spark plug diy
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...rk_Plug_Change
informative threads
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995...air-101-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ers-later.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-ticking.html
#35
Pro
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You might want to consider Sharams offer to hook you up - given the size of Switzerland a trip to Germany is quick and easy, and you are saving some serious "Schweitzer Franken". Austria is close, too. Or don't take it to Munich and choose a shop in the Lake Konstanz area - RUF is not far away in Mindelheim and I bet you even they are less expensive than your shop in Switzerland! Another factor is the exchange rate Franken vs. Euro; why would you not consider your options?
#36
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
again, do it yourself.
here's the instructions
car in the air, remove wheels, muffler, air box, heater blower motor, black rubber hose, engine tin, valve cover, remove the 3 spark plugs on that sector, remove rocker shaft.
take rocker shaft to bench, pull out lifter with pliers, make sure no part of the old seal is left inside, press new lifter into place, it will pop into it's seat. replace rocker arm. repeat 2 more times, replace valve cover gasket and valve cover.
move on to next sector.
if one of the rockers is hard to unscrew you'll notice the spring is being pressured by the cam. put a big wrench on the fan bolt and turn the engine some. it will be easy because you've removed the plugs. you've removed the plugs and will replace with new because you are there anyway and it is easy while the valve covers are off.
the only part that is hard is the valve cover under that friggin power steering pump, tough to get to 2 valve cover bolts.
if you have that friggin clutch vent hose that is a pain also but needs to be removed anyway with the engine tin.
you could also remove the engine mount nuts and lower the engine some inches to create space.
otherwise this is not a hard job. in fact this is just an old car not some magical special machine that needs a few grand in labor to change lifters.
no special tools, just a small torque wrench for the low torque values.
you'll want a set of ball tip hex sockets for valve covers and engine tins, hazet makes them right across the boarder in germany.
with all the money you save in labor buy quality tools that will last your lifetime.
call FD for all the parts, I'm guessing about 600 in swiss francs.
and there are tons of pictures and instructions on rennlist.
where I live there is nothing as far as parts and air cooled mechanics and 5 years ago before I discovered rennlist I would never even have known to suggest a diy. I was forced to learn how to change the oil because no shop wanted to deal with my car anymore. in fact back in 08 the lifters on my cab started ticking, I brought it to a shop that had changed the oil previously and the owner's response was not to charge me 5 grand to change lifters, he told me to sell the car!
now every time something needs to be done I search on rennlist and save hundreds in labor and spend the money on another tool. just got a mityvac cause I can't figure out a misfire. at some point if I'm stuck I can post the problem on rennlist and probably get an answer.
this isn't rocket science, its barely math.
torque settings
rocker shaft 13Nm
spark plugs 30Nm
valve cover bolts 9.7Nm
muffler to cat and tips 25Nm
muffler strap 20Nm
wheels 130Nm
spark plug diy
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...rk_Plug_Change
informative threads
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995...air-101-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ers-later.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-ticking.html
here's the instructions
car in the air, remove wheels, muffler, air box, heater blower motor, black rubber hose, engine tin, valve cover, remove the 3 spark plugs on that sector, remove rocker shaft.
take rocker shaft to bench, pull out lifter with pliers, make sure no part of the old seal is left inside, press new lifter into place, it will pop into it's seat. replace rocker arm. repeat 2 more times, replace valve cover gasket and valve cover.
move on to next sector.
if one of the rockers is hard to unscrew you'll notice the spring is being pressured by the cam. put a big wrench on the fan bolt and turn the engine some. it will be easy because you've removed the plugs. you've removed the plugs and will replace with new because you are there anyway and it is easy while the valve covers are off.
the only part that is hard is the valve cover under that friggin power steering pump, tough to get to 2 valve cover bolts.
if you have that friggin clutch vent hose that is a pain also but needs to be removed anyway with the engine tin.
you could also remove the engine mount nuts and lower the engine some inches to create space.
otherwise this is not a hard job. in fact this is just an old car not some magical special machine that needs a few grand in labor to change lifters.
no special tools, just a small torque wrench for the low torque values.
you'll want a set of ball tip hex sockets for valve covers and engine tins, hazet makes them right across the boarder in germany.
with all the money you save in labor buy quality tools that will last your lifetime.
call FD for all the parts, I'm guessing about 600 in swiss francs.
and there are tons of pictures and instructions on rennlist.
where I live there is nothing as far as parts and air cooled mechanics and 5 years ago before I discovered rennlist I would never even have known to suggest a diy. I was forced to learn how to change the oil because no shop wanted to deal with my car anymore. in fact back in 08 the lifters on my cab started ticking, I brought it to a shop that had changed the oil previously and the owner's response was not to charge me 5 grand to change lifters, he told me to sell the car!
now every time something needs to be done I search on rennlist and save hundreds in labor and spend the money on another tool. just got a mityvac cause I can't figure out a misfire. at some point if I'm stuck I can post the problem on rennlist and probably get an answer.
this isn't rocket science, its barely math.
torque settings
rocker shaft 13Nm
spark plugs 30Nm
valve cover bolts 9.7Nm
muffler to cat and tips 25Nm
muffler strap 20Nm
wheels 130Nm
spark plug diy
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...rk_Plug_Change
informative threads
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995...air-101-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ers-later.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...l-ticking.html
#38
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You might want to consider Sharams offer to hook you up - given the size of Switzerland a trip to Germany is quick and easy, and you are saving some serious "Schweitzer Franken". Austria is close, too. Or don't take it to Munich and choose a shop in the Lake Konstanz area - RUF is not far away in Mindelheim and I bet you even they are less expensive than your shop in Switzerland! Another factor is the exchange rate Franken vs. Euro; why would you not consider your options?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I was just curious to see what it would cost in other countries... I am not really complaining...
#39
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Manual work= free if you could come to Paris and you help me.
honest
#40
Race Car
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
#41
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The prices they quoted you are MSRP except for the gaskets. $800 would be about right for those IF the decimal place was moved to the left by one digit. And those labor charges are book time which have no relation with reality but unfortunately is what Porsche (and every other auto manufacturer) manage to get away with. I also bill by the hour but would be charged with fraud and thrown in jail if I did what they do...