The spacers are there just to find the correct fitment for the wheel.
I will order 2 new sets for BBS racing wheels, this way I will have the specs right from the get go and will not need any spacers.:thumb up:

As for the stress on the bearings...well the original EVOs used the same hubs/bearings and they had 14" wide slicks in the rear.

 

Juha -- What is the width of your car in front measured to outside of tires? Also, to check for clearance I'd run your spring perches down to what you expect suspension travel to be to ensure you have clearance.

 

Joe, I can measure the width tomorrow. And good point regarding the suspension travel. The other thing to take into consideration is tire size, which I don't know yet.

Today we fitted the steering rack (I removed the steering lock parts etc.), the rennline quick release hub and the drivers seat.
I first installed the seat with the Sparco "high quality" sliders...the seat moved around too much and I decided to bolt it straight to the brackets. I don't really need the sliders for anything.

 

The biggest issue with wheel figment in the front is castor. This shoves the wheel forward and while the wheel fits fine when straight as soon as you turn it will wedge itself in the bumper. This caused me huge headaches on my first gt2 conversion as fitment was done with no clue as to castor settings.

 

My friend did a cold test drive; he said the car neez to be lower and more bass...I reckon we have to go from 12" to 2x15" on the subwoofer....

Thug life:

 

Great work no expense spared I see. Am I mistaken but shouldn't the ball joint be mounted to the underside of the A arm?

Also can you share more info about the larger rotors?

Thanks

 

Good eye Tony I thought I was mistaken when I saw the same thing
perhaps a trick to gain additional castor / camber without boxing
upper chamber plates...? Bert

 

i echo what Spartan notes. Frankly before you spend the $ on wheels and tires I'd give the car a rough alignment to see where things end up at the ride height you're shooting for. you'll be surprised how much wheels move setting castor and k-toe.

 

Upps.... You are not mistaken, the ball joint is on the wrong side of the A-arm, so actually the A-arms are mixed left to right.
I suppose it is easiest to just push out the studs on put them on the other side (plus change the ball joints side). The A-arms are a headache to put on and I just thought to my self I can just drop down the whole assembly without removing the A-arm from the side member....


That's my plan exactly! I think I will purchase a mobile alignment kit as I will need it in the future at track in any case when I'm setting up the car.

 

This arrived today. And my girl is showing how to use it:

 

Very cute... I think she has too much +ve camber +7.3 is going to kill the handling...

 

I made a decision regarding the fire suppression system and went with SPA design in UK. This is the same manufacturer that makes the systems for the factory race cars.
This is a gas system that utilises 3M's Novec 1320 which is the most advanced product available. Unlike powder and foam systems, this will not make a mess and destroy cabling and create corrosion etc. It is also environmental friendly.

The actuation is electric and the system is plumbed to the engine bay and the cockpit.


SPA Extreme 3.0kg

 

I also ended up buying racing mirrors from the same company. The price was quite ok (150/mirror), probably a lot less than I would've spent on original manual mirrors used/new. And a lot less work to fix these on the CF doors.

 

I bought this GT2-R wing from Zimpseed (the bodywork on this 993 is the same that I have btw):

You can notice in this photo how wide the rear wheel is (14" I'm betting), the slick is really stretched on the wheel. I believe the tire is 310 wide.