Bill Verburg

The wiring is not a big deal
The RS DME has the same 55 pin connector as used on all other '95 993s and on all RoW '96 -98

It is plug and play for RoW '96-98 vrams, for '95s the wiring needs to be changed slightly to operate the vram
1) the old resonance flap pin 1 needs to connect to the vram solenoids
2) pin 32 which is not used on RoW 993 needs to connect to the resonance flap

pp000830

The engine you have has lasted all these years and may never need internal work because Porsche ran the stock engine through testing to make sure it has an extremely long life. Any deviation from this and you can throw their testing out the window. For such a small incremental change do you really want to change anything? A new rotor and cap can give you a 15% performance bump. In theory worn tires that are 6/10 of an inch less tall can give you greater off the line numbers.
Now if you were talking a 33% increase in performance, something that is unambiguous this would be a different discussion one that may include just finding a Turbo to trade up to.
Andy

clubsport1

I wouldn't bother with the expense of the 3.8, it is possible to get 300-310 bhp in the Uk with a strong engine and a very good remap.

If you do go for the kit and get the RS ecu......You can still have issues with stalling depending on the flywheel fitted. the regular RS had a dmf, I changed this to single mass and it took a while to learn, but would still occasionally stall.
I sold that RS for an RS-CS that comes from the factory with a single mass flywheel, there are no issues at all with staling or idle...perfect running!

race911

I'm not even going to try to make sense of either of those claims.

Back in the real world, the ~75 to ~125 pull up the front straight at Thunderhill between the full weight, stock 4S and the regeared, lighter, 3.8 faux RS is maybe, maybe, maybe 4 MPH.

It's your money, spend however you see fit. But I'd consult with an expert who has a resume of proven reliability, in conjunction with higher output.

(For the record, I'd never use a non-OE piston in an engine that wasn't going to be on a short hour maintenance schedule or an oversized slip fit cylinder for anything but a lightly used street car.)

911PERVY

I think after spending all the money the OP has spent on the car to say its a keeper is an under statement!

Had he not have been the £35K + into the car, a px on a turbo would be my recommendation too!

Direct fit P+C listed here;

http://www.type911shop.co.uk/shop/ar...6aid%3D8197%26

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Bill,

My comment was made with the context of retaining the stock 993 crankshaft. OEM 993 rod's small ends are too narrow for the current 3.8 RSR bore-in P/C's so that requires either spacers (bad practices) or a custom rod to fit.

All of our race engines do get GT-3 cranks and Pauter rods since they see north of 8K RPM, however I was referring to street engines that will not get revved over 7K.

KaiB

Ask Weiner, but for the record, my engine makes 335fwhp and great flat torque as a 3.6 with stock rods, pistons and crank. Redline is 7K and the engine is very strong across the board.

Intake, ITBs, a bit more cam, valves and a bit of head work, Motec engine management and great headers is all it took. Don't try this at home, but if you're serious, call Steve.

JasonAndreas

To get the early M2.1 RS ecu or eprom to work in a 964 you have to tie an "undocumented" pin (#49) to ground or it won't start. I'm guessing that Porsche did this to keep people from popping the ECU into a regular 964 and gaining 10hp? I wonder if they did the same with the 993RS ecu, say pin (15, 27, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 46 or 52?)

Bill Verburg

I've never experimented w/ the variant coding pins but from what I have gathered all the DME's contain multiple programming for different country compliance, the different programs are accessed by grounding various pins to each other or ground, so what you suggest is certainly a good possibility

Bill Verburg

apparantly they are available
Mahle 993 bore in p/c set

the RSR sets have slightly higher compression than RS, mine have tapered wrist pics which I don't believe were used on the RS versions but I could be wrong about that




from Andial's catalog

Juha G

Throwing 20k on a 3.8 upgrade and getting 20-30hp more is stupid in my opinion.

I got good results with just pushing the ignition timing a bit via motec install and some time on the dyno.
The downside is you are limited to the fuel grade you make the mapping for.

https://rennlist.com/forums/9028972-post30.html

For 8k you can buy my supercharger kit and get 400hp and 500Nm:

https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...0hp-500nm.html

Jarg1

While I agree that the price per horsepower ratio is terrible for the 3.8 upgrade, I personally would not want to use forced induction because of the increase of weight in the back, and that is also why I wouldn't want to buy a turbo, which is a great car, but basically a completely different animal than a narrow body rear wheel drive 993. Clearly weight loss is by far the most cost effective approach to increasing 993 performance, and that is currently how I am approaching the problem. But at some point I would also like to find a way to increase horsepower without increasing weight, and I imagine I will have to bite the bullet and pay the big bucks knowing that I will not see a commensurate increase in the value of the car.

goofballdeluxe

^^^^ All true, but the added weight of either the Turbo or a supercharger is more than made up for by the addition 120+ horses/torque it makes.

Low weight is great, but power to weight ratio is a big factor too.

Jarg1

No argument, but I think I prefer the feel of lighter cars, and in theory the better handling.

NP993

The 9M heads/cams package is a bit over $10K, and installed in the course of a rebuild you actually recoup a few bucks from not having to rebuild your stock heads (and also being able to sell them). More expensive overall, but ultimately is more bang for the buck than 3.8 p/c's and RS cams.