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Great write-up! I am about to do the same to my headlights.
I was unaware that slight modifications were needed with the Morimoto projectors. I thought the Morimoto projectors were a direct replacement for the old ones. Was I mistaken?
They are a bolt in affair, no modifications needed. Maybe not in 2013 when this thread was created though.
The tfs kit includes some custom adapters that allow you to bolt on the morimoto. I was looking at just buying the morimoto and following this diy, but given the tfs kit is $30 for the adapters and $5 for the splitter wire I decided to to pay a little more with tfs to save some time. There is a 10% off tfs coupon which helps too!
require purchase of HID to place inside the projector or am I missing something inherent? It appears to me that in the install DIY on their site its a bit of a "optional" hodgepodge.
Translation - does the $160 package include everything one needs to replace the OEM projectors with HID as well or am I overthinking this?
require purchase of HID to place inside the projector or am I missing something inherent? It appears to me that in the install DIY on their site its a bit of a "optional" hodgepodge.
Translation - does the $160 package include everything one needs to replace the OEM projectors with HID as well or am I overthinking this?
$160 is just for the projector kit. You’ll need to buy the HID kit separately (Tore Tlight).
Get the HID setup from Tore at BergvillF/X. The ballasts are designed to simply fit inside the housing so there is no need to mount ballasts outside the housing in the frunk or up inside the wheel well. As a result, there is no drilling on the housing lid and everything works perfect. Then, all you need are the Morimoto projectors and RetroQuick mounting hardware - no bulbs. If you want to also retain your existing high beam along with the Bi-Xenon projectors, purchase the high beam splitters.
Get the HID setup from Tore at BergvillF/X. The ballasts are designed to simply fit inside the housing so there is no need to mount ballasts outside the housing in the frunk or up inside the wheel well. As a result, there is no drilling on the housing lid and everything works perfect. Then, all you need are the Morimoto projectors and RetroQuick mounting hardware - no bulbs. If you want to also retain your existing high beam along with the Bi-Xenon projectors, purchase the high beam splitters.
This is what I have ordered up. In addition, I also ordered the Cyclops H1 2800 LED bulb for the high beam. I am reading and rereading these post for installation.
I installed my T-Lights and Retrofit Source projectors this past weekend. Other than experiencing the same connector size mismatch others have had with the high beam splitters, I had a few extra parts left over from the install. I am not sure if I missed anything or if these are just extra parts included for more generic installs. Can anyone look at these pics and tell me if I missed something, or if these parts are not needed?
The LED's and resistors is our Centre Console LED light repair kit. I am not surprised you have these parts left after fitting new headlights. :-)
Cheers,
Tore
The tfs kit includes some custom adapters that allow you to bolt on the morimoto. I was looking at just buying the morimoto and following this diy, but given the tfs kit is $30 for the adapters and $5 for the splitter wire I decided to to pay a little more with tfs to save some time. There is a 10% off tfs coupon which helps too!
this^^^ the Retrofit 993 kit includes the Morimoto bi-xenon’s, AND the hardware kit to adapt the slightly different bolt pattern directly to our headlight buckets...very straight forward installation. When you choose the 993 retrofit kit, click on the high beam splitter option...for $5 you get 2 high beams. The bi-xenon flap opens for high beam operation of that formally low beam only bulb, and the splitter also power the traditional high beam bulb. HID in the bi-xenon, LED in the high beam location=a $hit load of light.
11-14-2018, 12:35 PM
