Compression and Leakdown results......Blargh!
#1
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Compression and Leakdown results......Blargh!
190 across the first five cylinders and 185 in the 6th.
Everything below 10% on the first five cylinders for leakdown apart from the 6th cylinder which is at 18%.
Haven't got the written report yet as it was faxed to my office and arrived well after 6pm so the office with the fax was locked. I just talked to the mechanic for a while on the phone. I'll go over it in in more detail when the office assistant gets in a 9am.
Everything else was great. 50% left on the breaks. Small leak to the engine. Drives and rides well. Paint and interior great. One careful owner.
Not what I was expecting. Time to run not walk?
G
Everything below 10% on the first five cylinders for leakdown apart from the 6th cylinder which is at 18%.
Haven't got the written report yet as it was faxed to my office and arrived well after 6pm so the office with the fax was locked. I just talked to the mechanic for a while on the phone. I'll go over it in in more detail when the office assistant gets in a 9am.
Everything else was great. 50% left on the breaks. Small leak to the engine. Drives and rides well. Paint and interior great. One careful owner.
Not what I was expecting. Time to run not walk?
G
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Gjbacci (12-29-2020)
#2
Race Director
not necessarily. Now it comes down to negotiation if you like the car otherwise.
I would say if you can get maybe a $4k reduction in price and accept that you'll put another $2-$3k into a top end repair, then it may still be the car to buy.
You can't realistically expect a new top end at the same price, so I wouldn't ask for the full boat repair, but you can at least reduce your costs.
I would say if you can get maybe a $4k reduction in price and accept that you'll put another $2-$3k into a top end repair, then it may still be the car to buy.
You can't realistically expect a new top end at the same price, so I wouldn't ask for the full boat repair, but you can at least reduce your costs.
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I agree - it totally depends what you want to do with the car and the mileage you are targeting and you can use PPI info to negotiate price. I bought a car with 82k miles knowing I wanted to do some upgrades to the engine and I found a clean car that clearly had some issues with 1 or 2 cylinders and used this to negotiate a much lower price, which basically discounted the engine work I was going to do anyway.
#4
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You need to be honest with yourself: Is this the car that you really want with no compromises? Do you need the car in a hurry or do you have the time and the patience to have it brought up to snuff? Do you have a mechanic/shop that you trust to do the work properly and at a reasonable cost? After mulling over those questions, you then will know how to proceed: Either negotiate or walk.
#6
RL Technical Advisor
Hi,
Here's the key: WHERE did the 18% leakage come from, valves or rings?
Did the tech note the source of the leakage? If it was past a valve, I would not be concerned as its most likely due to a carbon buildup. If was getting by the rings (as heard from the oil tank filler tube), that's cause for concern.
Here's the key: WHERE did the 18% leakage come from, valves or rings?
Did the tech note the source of the leakage? If it was past a valve, I would not be concerned as its most likely due to a carbon buildup. If was getting by the rings (as heard from the oil tank filler tube), that's cause for concern.
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in my experience , #1 is always going to be lower in all used cars. it gets least amount of air..usually my mechanics pull #1 and do a valve job..on #1 alone ..that the cylinder nearest front in the passenger side..
thats is not much variance..how many miles on the vehicle..
lemon
thats is not much variance..how many miles on the vehicle..
lemon
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#8
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It needs engine work, that is clear, but how much is unclear. You need to get enough discount to do the engine at a minimum - allow for $6K at least, but you are taking risk that other stuff needs doing, and you also need to factor that you are taking a bum car off their hands, and this is going to take up your time and increased risk. What is the mileage of the car?
#9
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Mileage is 43k miles. Not excessive. Shocks are original. Clutch is original. Mechanic couldn't tell where it was leaking from. The car has done minimal mirage in the last 6 years.
#10
add shocks to your budget.. and the 60k work is coming up which is also needed on a 12+ year old machine.
either way you will LOVE IT!
big thing is if you DIY or pay a mechanic.. that will swing the financials\fun around a bit.
phil.
either way you will LOVE IT!
big thing is if you DIY or pay a mechanic.. that will swing the financials\fun around a bit.
phil.
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A healthy engine with 43,000 miles should show a very low leakdown, certainly at 5% or below. We have seen issues with how the leakdowns are down though, some techs seem to use 30psi as the reference pressure, and also large differences in measurements between shops. Maybe is a combination of lousy technique, low pressures (it should be 100psi), faulty or inaccurate tools, carbonization, and an engine that has not been run much.....
Unless you get a stinking good deal to allow for the first PPI's readings, it may be worth getting a second opinion.
Cheers,
Mike
Unless you get a stinking good deal to allow for the first PPI's readings, it may be worth getting a second opinion.
Cheers,
Mike
#12
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If it's the car you just gotta have my recommendation would be to become very familiar with leakdown and compression process and take it to another indy. Be present for the PPI. Be able to understand what others in this thread are saying, especially regarding where and how to listen for the air passing on the leakdown. My gut tells me the PPI may not have been completed correctly. It might pass a PPI down under your watch.
Regarding original shocks.....budget from replacements. You can't come close to the driving experience these cars offer on crappy worn out Monroes.
Regarding original shocks.....budget from replacements. You can't come close to the driving experience these cars offer on crappy worn out Monroes.
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when we got the 930 SC cabrio
1# was 115 ..the rest were 165 to 175...
so valve adjustment was done.. Went up to 155...they were tight... 2 tanks of techroline.. 20 gallon filling it on 15 gallons.. 30 gallons in total...
now 163 ...good enought for me.
Lemon
1# was 115 ..the rest were 165 to 175...
so valve adjustment was done.. Went up to 155...they were tight... 2 tanks of techroline.. 20 gallon filling it on 15 gallons.. 30 gallons in total...
now 163 ...good enought for me.
Lemon
#14
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