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993 Project continues - Going Wide

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Old 04-03-2013, 03:00 PM
  #106  
Flying Finn
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Shaping nicely...

I know after the first cut, there's no more pain but seeing the first cut is always the "deepest"...

Gonna be awesome looking beast!
Old 04-04-2013, 04:10 PM
  #107  
Juha G
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Received the front fenders in the morning, dropped them off at the bodyshop at lunch and in the afternoon they were already fitted on...
Parts were made by Hahn GFK in Germany and they were excellent quality and fit.

It seems that my guesswork on the rear wheel specs were spot on...







Old 04-04-2013, 04:24 PM
  #108  
Juha G
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Originally Posted by Macca
I note you have temperature matting over the rear muffler box. Have you had problems with heat deforming the bumper here? I wonder if this works to solve the problem?

My right hand side bumper has a small crease from head from muffler transferred through the inside heat shield (not touching tho!). Motec makes it run hotter maybe...
There was similar matting there when I removed the rear bumper for the first time a few years ago. The lower edge was all torn and hanging below the bumper, looked like ****. So I removed it and used some fire retarding fibreglass cloth and copper wire and hand sew new ones. They did help with the heat (I used to have problems with melting bumper).

I will most likely end up getting my muffler ceramic coated to further reduce the heat radiation in that area.

Originally Posted by 01coccobet
BTW +1 to Cobalt blue and Yellow Swedish stripes!
Swedish stripes...? I'm all for Swedes, they're a bunch of great guys and gals but swedish stripes on a Finn's car... hell no!!
Old 04-04-2013, 04:32 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Juha G
There was similar matting there when I removed the rear bumper for the first time a few years ago. The lower edge was all torn and hanging below the bumper, looked like ****. So I removed it and used some fire retarding fibreglass cloth and copper wire and hand sew new ones. They did help with the heat (I used to have problems with melting bumper).

I will most likely end up getting my muffler ceramic coated to further reduce the heat radiation in that area.



Swedish stripes...? I'm all for Swedes, they're a bunch of great guys and gals but swedish stripes on a Finn's car... hell no!!
Juha, I need to take a closeup of my Finny flag that I got signed by Mika Salo and JJ Lehto, somehere you could get them turned into photo-negative (white sig on black or clear) to put on the windows

I play an F1 Pick 8 (we never went to 10) run by a fellow in Tampere, about 8 Finns and 2 yanks (but the yanks finished 1/2 in the standings last year (me P1, Peter P2) and we play for money.
Old 04-04-2013, 07:44 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Juha G
It seems that my guesswork on the rear wheel specs were spot on...

looks like it's coming along very quickly, can't wait to see the finished product. What are the specs of your rear wheels and tires?
Old 04-04-2013, 07:54 PM
  #111  
Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by Macca
Juha. Great work!

I note you have temperature matting over the rear muffler box. Have you had problems with heat deforming the bumper here? I wonder if this works to solve the problem?

My right hand side bumper has a small crease from head from muffler transferred through the inside heat shield (not touching tho!). Motec makes it run hotter maybe...
Me too


common GT2 bumpers

Old 04-05-2013, 11:27 AM
  #112  
Juha G
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Originally Posted by DB_NC_95C2
Juha, I need to take a closeup of my Finny flag that I got signed by Mika Salo and JJ Lehto, somehere you could get them turned into photo-negative (white sig on black or clear) to put on the windows
That'd be cool!
We have a TV series here in Finland where Mika Salo is testing all kinds of modified street cars on the track. This season the owner's of the vehicles are racing against Salo in time attack mode.

Originally Posted by Washabi
looks like it's coming along very quickly, can't wait to see the finished product. What are the specs of your rear wheels and tires?
Rear wheels are 11x18ET5 and there is a 5mm spacer also in the photo, so it is actually ET0.
The nice thing is that there is 2" space on the inside, so my track wheels will be 13x18...

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
Me too

common GT2 bumpers
I need to make some kind of openings as well...


The inner tierods look like this after adding 30mm on the inside and doing the "tie rod pinning" mod:






Tomorrow I will start working on the front, placing the coolers and preparing new brackets for them. Stay tuned!
Old 04-05-2013, 02:04 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Juha G
Rear wheels are 11x18ET5 and there is a 5mm spacer also in the photo, so it is actually ET0.
The nice thing is that there is 2" space on the inside, so my track wheels will be 13x18...
nice! Thanks for the quick reply. I'm worried that my new wheel/tire setup won't fit with the RSR Club Sport flares. I guess we'll just have to wait and see
Old 04-05-2013, 07:33 PM
  #114  
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Juha. I tried a new bumper with ceramic coated back boxes and it still happened again (right hand bank more than left). Id stick with the matting - its a safer solution dependent of course on what material your rear bumper is made of - if its glass or composite it may be more durable than the factory PU. The alternative is venting the bumper as Bob has done. Interestingly my engine runs as cool as it ever did even on the track but by using the cat delete pipes I think the heat concentration has moved from the cat assembly to the back boxed and exhaust tips..
Old 04-06-2013, 11:46 AM
  #115  
Juha G
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Macca, I think you have a point. Ceramic coating the muflers is probably just a band-aid fix to the problem. I think I need to look into cutting the bumper sides open like Bill has done. The good thing is that with the stretched turbo bumper, there is a lot more space between the NA muffler and bumper.

This morning I took apart the coolers on both sides and gave them a thorough wash. Then fitted them with the new EVO front and prepared new brackets from aluminum and stainless steel. I decided to wait for my bodyguy to do the final fitting of the front bumper before I finalize the supports for the oil coolers.

The good news is I have space on the passenger side for the oil cooler fan. On the drivers side there might be space but since I'm ditching the AC, I don't think there is need for a fan there.
The only thing I will need the fan for is when driving on the street in traffic, I suppose...















Old 04-06-2013, 12:03 PM
  #116  
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Looking good Juha...

Have you thought of using gold or silver reflective barrier on the inside of the bumpers. I have a friend that has a 600 hp gold vr6 with the turbo only an inch or too from the hood. He has gold reflective tape under the hood and the protection it provides is amazing. After a session on the track you can put your hand on the hood above the turbo and barely notice the temperature. Most of these tapes are upwards of 95% reflective. This combined with ceramic coating would pretty much cure the issues of heat.

Here is a link to a product.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
Old 04-06-2013, 01:30 PM
  #117  
bobt993
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Juha, you may want to consider turning the oil coolers 90 deg so the connections are facing to the back of the car. I found this provided more surface area on the intake side. I used aeroquip ends that were low profile to get the proper bend on the fittings. My car is still perched on ramps. If I get some time I will put it on stands so I can remove the front wheel and take some pictures for you.

As far as the back bumper. Open up the entire center section and screen it in. I then fabricated a diffuser that extends the entire length of the car in 3 sections. I added vents to it after testing to add or delete air cooling to the engine depending on the temp outside and track. The diffuser angle is adjustable up to 10 degrees.
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:39 PM
  #118  
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Bob very nice undertray

If you ever thought of sharing,

do you have CAD of this?

What's the weight?

tks
Old 04-07-2013, 01:29 PM
  #119  
bobt993
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The undertray is not that light since I have to make weight anyways (20 lbs per section). It puts the weight where I want it very low CG. My other solution to the added weight was dropping over 20 lbs myself through some tough cycling road work. I could have this done on CAD. My buddy is a machinist and does CAD work. I would think it would be better in carbon fiber or one gauge less of aluminum. I like the thickness since it allowed me to use nut inserts on it for quick install ( 5 minutes or less on jack stands). There also is a ton pressure on it at speed so it has minimum flex.
Old 04-20-2013, 01:28 PM
  #120  
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Any updates?


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