bobt993

Carm,

I am not a shop, but you can DIY a good portion of the work if your going wide body. I can pass on the step by step process. There are several in this area that also do the work (Phila, Pa. ) . You may also be able to get Chris Cervelli to a full conversion over the winter, but give him a lot of time. NE has several shops that have done these: Dawe, Musante, Hairy Dog, Deman, Vintage Motorsports. It is all about how much you want to spend and or save.

Juha G

Bob, I really appreciate your help. You have been guiding me trough this conversion and really helped me a lot!

I checked the front wheel offsets once more and found out that the factory GT2 EVOs used 10x18ET32 wheels in front so I should be "safe" with anything that has a bigger ET figure than that!?

Both the BBS and Kinesis wheel have ETs in the range of 35-40.

V

Juha, like we talked about I think you should retain all origial BBS parts and buy BBS 4" outers and then sell the 3,5" outers to me to offset the cost . No new spacers (cost + unsprung weight) and no new studs . Check with Gert for new 4" outers or Bob Woodman tires;

http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/18-di...new-used-rims/

Price used is 143 USD each (if he has them) and new 238 USD each. But faster from Gert no doubt.

The 335s should be fine on 13,5". I ran 225s up front on 9" front wheels, which makes the tires equally stretched, no problem at all.

But this is all assuming you want to make things perfect . They are already a pretty good fit as is . You can't go wrong either way .

Juha G

So I went to see the car today (I wasn't around last weekend when they put it on her feet).
There is some work to do with the wheels and suspension.
The rear wheels, now that the suspension is compressed and there is the -2.5dgr camber, need 30mm spacers to come out to the fender edge.

On the front I am having issue with not enough camber, quickly measuring and calculating I have only about 1.5-2dgr and I need -3dgr.
There is no more adjustment in the top plates so I am hoping the lower adjustment is in its stock position, so I could get more camber from there.
That I will know tomorrow night when I have time to tackle it.

So it looks like I need to get 30 or 35mm bolted spacers for the rears, something like this:

bobt993

Juha,

Is the car on the ground and fully loaded? I cannot imagine you being shy on camber in the front. Every time I have pushed the wheels out it is the opposite ( too much). Check the factory adjustment on the wheel carrier itself. It can move about 1.5 deg positive and 2 neg. The problem is it pitches the inside of the wheel towards the shock tower and can rub on the suspension. The best solution is to put the factory adjustment at zero or a bit positive then use the camber plates to move the shock inward a bit more. I had 9 deg of camber when I first did mine. You want about 3.5 deg of camber for a starting point back depends on how stiff your running.

Juha G

I switched the top plates left to right last week. Now the top adjustments are maxed out and only abt. -2dgr camber.
I think the solution is in the lower adjustments, have to check those tomorrow.
The suspension is fully loaded with the weight of the car, so it can't be that.

I am still surprised about the HUGE rear fenders. FVD did mention that the name 14" flare kit comes from the fact that they allow using 14" slicks... no kidding!

The rear bumper/fender flare joint will be must still be pulled out about 30mm. It doesn't look right at the moment.

V

Oh man...

Juha I agree it doesn't look 100% right, especially not in that first picture. I would never have guessed that you are 1,5 inch wider per side than for example Matt's GT2 clone. Your rear wheels specs are identical to his and like Bob said, ET should be around 30 for the rear, which is what we built. Is it the compressed suspension that gives another inch or so of clearance? Crazy! As there is little to no gain at all (performance wise) by going wider than 13" with your 335s, it makes perfect sense to use a bolt on spacer like the one you pictured. Those flares must be ultra wide! Strange that FVD doesn't mention this more clearly.

I'm sure it will all come together nicely in the end, but the flare as you say looks a little out of place in that first pic. Keep up the good work!

Juha G

Viggo, if this was easy, everyone would be doing it...

I quickly calculated that 1 dgr camber change means the tire vs. fender distance is altered by abt. 10mm.
So when the wheels are off the ground, the camber is close to zero and when suspension is loaded I have abt. -2.5dgr so that means when the car is lowered to the ground, the wheel upper edge moves inwards about 25mm.


The fender looks very good when pulled out abt. 30mm. We will fabricate brackets to hold it in the correct position.
Also the lower end of the rear bumber must be stretched out by heating the fender and adding some bracket there. Then it will look business!

We are quite far with this project already and it looks like the body guy can concentrate more in this as he now has full staff again and not overwhelmed with other work.

Juha G

Once we get the front bumber back together, I'm thinking we should take moulds out of it. So if anyone wants to do the same later, we would have a 100% fitting front bumper. (plus there is allways the chance of a little mishap at track)

cavlino

Thanks for the info Bob

JoeMag

Juha -- Did this a few years ago... Looks like you're pretty far along, but here's some body work pics of when I did mine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint...ferrerid=30901

Juha G

Wow, that's a proper build!!!

Do you have any close up shots of the oil cooler brackets? I need to fabricate mine and would love to see how you supported them.

JoeMag

here ya go for oil coolers. top is a triangle type shape made out of three metal bars, that connects to rubber mount, in stock hole on oil cooler. in the rear i believe i just used the factory sheet metal and tirmmed it up for what i wanted. the silver bar you see on bottom of cooler (front to back), is a threaded rod the couples front and rear mounts on bottom.

bottom pic is from an alex job rsr from back in the day.

Juha G

Thanks Joe!! I need to fabricate the supports for the oil coolers next.

Tonight I spent a couple of hours with the car.
I adjusted the camber in the front from the shock bottom. I pushed it as far in as I could but still I could only get abt. 2.8 - 2.9 degree camber. I think I will manage with that but perhaps I need to get new top plates with more adjustment.
The top plate is quite a simple piece and I think I could easily draw it on ACAD and have new plates water cut.

I wired up the exhaust bypass valves and located the switch underneath the Intercooler. So it is not visible but very easily accessed with hand:



Dear god this *** is wide...



Rear wheels will have to move out that 35mm:

PelicanParts.com

Great stuff Juha!!