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door check strap weld cracking

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Old 02-21-2013, 09:14 AM
  #16  
bigrig
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Originally Posted by ble2011
I wish I could get a pic of mine. It's in storage right now. I had Dave Triechel from Zero to Sixty garage correct it. He did such a great job, it looks like it came that way. He welded completely around the hanger. From the top around the back and underneath. At first I was concerned because the hanger appeared to be crooked, but he said purposely did this to make the hanger and area around it stronger. He then finished it (or maybe it's just a good weld job) by making it appear like a "fillet" and he painted it to match. Unbelievable job. I have nothing but praise for all the work he's done on my car.
http://www.zeroto60garage.com/Main2.htm
i would love to see pictures of this repair.
Old 02-21-2013, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gary1101
I bought my first P car a few months ago and this is the way it came from the PO.
I plan on cutting a patch from a junked car and doing the repair from the front to get rid of this mess.
Icaramba!!
Old 02-21-2013, 09:33 AM
  #18  
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A good welder can do it properly when you show them pictures from the link. That is what I did to get the job done right. My door check strap was repaired before and had a lot of material on it but it cracked at the base. I was told that the temp was not high enough when doing that weld to make the material stick long term.

I don't know much about welding but was told something like too low of temp will not stick properly. Too high of temp can melt and wrap the metal you are laying material on?
Old 02-21-2013, 03:28 PM
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I had a similar "PPI surprise":



More concerning to me than the extremely poor repair was the potential for rust if neglected. I had it cut out and boxed, which IMO is the proper repair:

Old 02-23-2013, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by flyingchappy
I have the same issue, but in a much worse condition. The weld on mine looks like it was done blindfolded. I'm looking for a good source in the eastern PA area to repair this.
Wouldn't hurt to give Jay a call at M&W up in Stockton. He's the only guy I'll let work on my 993.

http://www.mwautoservice.com/
Old 02-23-2013, 11:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TRM

Wouldn't hurt to give Jay a call at M&W up in Stockton. He's the only guy I'll let work on my 993.

http://www.mwautoservice.com/
Thanks!

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Old 11-30-2016, 12:56 PM
  #22  
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Default Door repair

Do not have any blow by blow photos, but to my recollection, the body shop cut an access into the area on the side or back of the pillar located near door check mechanism, welded an additional solid support piece to keep the door check firmly affixed and in place. There is little welding done externally as I have seen on this thread. Nice clean job done to Porsche certified specification as apparently there is only one way to really do it right according to Porsche.hope that explains okay...
Old 11-30-2016, 01:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bigrig
the PO fixed the door check strap by welding underneath only, it starting clicking about a month ago.
as you can see in the picture the weld has started cracking.
i would like to fix it, but wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else.

should i find someone to grind away the existing weld and weld new again?
is it normal to have the weld fail after some time?
would it be better to weld top and bottom?

i have searched but not found a post with this situation.
bonus points to anyone that can refer someone in the miami area that has done this repair before.
thanks,
Neil
Metal fatigue is pretty common right beside welds on parts that are still allowed to flex. The filler metal from the MIG wire is actually harder than the metal you are welding and has a different crystalline structure because it has cooled very rapidly (unavoidable). This car is on the way to looking like Gary1101's. The only way to prevent it is to reinforce from the backside so that the bracket cannot move.
Cheers
Allan
Old 11-30-2016, 02:10 PM
  #24  
Gbos1
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Originally Posted by AllanH
Metal fatigue is pretty common right beside welds on parts that are still allowed to flex. The filler metal from the MIG wire is actually harder than the metal you are welding and has a different crystalline structure because it has cooled very rapidly (unavoidable). This car is on the way to looking like Gary1101's. The only way to prevent it is to reinforce from the backside so that the bracket cannot move.
Cheers
Allan
Exactly, as we found out! The metal surrounding the check strap "A Pillar" is very thin metal and needs reinforcement. If it's cracking then the metal is split and rusting around the Check Strap. Basically, what you are describing they did to mine for the first fix and it "failed." Good luck sounds like your way is a "temporary fix."

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...k-strap-3.html

See my post #36 in how we addressed the issue "done correctly."
Old 11-30-2016, 06:27 PM
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earossi
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Originally Posted by bigrig
the PO fixed the door check strap by welding underneath only, it starting clicking about a month ago.
as you can see in the picture the weld has started cracking.
i would like to fix it, but wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else.

should i find someone to grind away the existing weld and weld new again?
is it normal to have the weld fail after some time?
would it be better to weld top and bottom?

i have searched but not found a post with this situation.
bonus points to anyone that can refer someone in the miami area that has done this repair before.
thanks,
Neil

I'm not a welder, but that weld on your repair looks terrible to me. Would not be surprised to find that the crack was in the weld from day one!. I would have the weld ground out, and then prep the area for cleanliness before attempting another weld. I would get a different welder to do the work. And, by all means, weld out the top and the bottom of the stay. You can then dress down the weld with a Dremel tool. And, then repaint the area. But, all that grease has got to be removed so that the repair is not contaminated.
Old 11-30-2016, 06:32 PM
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Does anyone have a photo of the inside of the pillar? I would like to offer a suggestion to how the reinforcing plate should look. BTW these parts are all zinc coated from the factory the coating needs to come off before any welding takes place.
Old 11-30-2016, 09:05 PM
  #27  
abiazis
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My repair welded inside the hinge through access that was cut out and repaired and also on the hinge itself - top and bottom areas.....$ 1500 guaranteed for life of the car....
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Old 11-30-2016, 09:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by abiazis
My repair welded inside the hinge through access that was cut out and repaired and also on the hinge itself - top and bottom areas.....$ 1500 guaranteed for life of the car....
I need a photo of the inside of the pillar with the fender removed.
Thanks
Allan
Old 11-30-2016, 09:24 PM
  #29  
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Better have that "Lifetime Repair" in writing.................. . . . . .. . ..
Old 11-30-2016, 10:14 PM
  #30  
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LOL......have no worries about the shop repairing it.....if it ever breaks again........I had my rocker panels painted in 2005 with the same guarantee from the owner and due to very slight discolor after I called them on it, the shop repainted them at no charge in 2016.....I generally build good relationships with indies or contractors that I have work done with, whether my car or house, and find people will honor their word if you are civil and treat them with respect....been lucky that way with anything that needs a redo...


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