Survey : A fix for the dreaded door check strap..
11-26-2016, 11:05 PM
#32
RL Community Team
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The bolts holding the strap to the door are loose;
The pin attaching the strap to the door jamb has some play in its hole;
The attachment point inside the door jamb has come loose. The popping is the result of the strap snapping back and forth as it passes through its mid point stay position.
11-26-2016, 11:36 PM
#33
Three sources of the popping,
The bolts holding the strap to the door are loose;
The pin attaching the strap to the door jamb has some play in its hole;
The attachment point inside the door jamb has come loose. The popping is the result of the strap snapping back and forth as it passes through its mid point stay position.
The bolts holding the strap to the door are loose;
The pin attaching the strap to the door jamb has some play in its hole;
The attachment point inside the door jamb has come loose. The popping is the result of the strap snapping back and forth as it passes through its mid point stay position.
Nothing was loose or worn on my car other than the detent assembly itself. the rubbery plastic parts inside are not up to the task of controlling the location of the steel roller. It is so cheaply built and small for such a heavy door. What we really need is a retro fit detent from another car. It would be great to have an effective door detent that doesn't tear the car apart!
11-27-2016, 03:22 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
I did one of these repairs several years ago.....sort of. I had the strap plate fillet welded top and bottom to the door pillar without the need to remove the fender. When I reinstalled the latch, the flex was not evident at the pillar; however, I still got the snapping sound when opening the door, even though I had replaced the old strap with a new one. I don't believe that the snapping sound is the result of the latch pin flexing in the door pillar. I think that the noise is due to the stiffness of the rubber bumpers that are encapsulated in the strap assembly. I've been lazy; but, I will eventually pull out the latch assembly and do the "modification" that has been common and has you shave down the height of the rubber stops in the assembly. I'll do that and then reassemble with adequate gease to ease operation of the stop assembly. Hope that solves my "snapping" sound.
I wasted time and money replacing the door straps and shaving detents and the click was still there. However, simply replacing the pin solved the click / snap sound in both my SC and 993.
If this doesn't work for you, you have wasted very little time or money. If it does work, you could save quite a bit more of both.
11-28-2016, 11:46 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
I had my driver's side "properly fixed." It took about 3 weeks total. Coming up with a plan and best way. Ordered "A Pillar" from Porsche cut out center and re-welded onto cut out A Pillar on the car. Reinforced the weld 10x stronger than stock tack welds. Looks like new and solid as Fort Knox!
11-28-2016, 12:25 PM
#37
I had my driver's side "properly fixed." It took about 3 weeks total. Coming up with a plan and best way. Ordered "A Pillar" from Porsche cut out center and re-welded onto cut out A Pillar on the car. Reinforced the weld 10x stronger than stock tack welds. Looks like new and solid as Fort Knox!
11-28-2016, 01:53 PM
#38
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Welding with enclosed cavities that can get wet always worry me - did the body shop also spray the inside of the pillar (ie. the backside of the welding) to prevent long term rusting?
This product seems to work really well (I have used it on other cars), and you can spray it inside cavities using only a small hole for access:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html
Cheers,
Mike
This product seems to work really well (I have used it on other cars), and you can spray it inside cavities using only a small hole for access:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html
Cheers,
Mike
11-28-2016, 06:55 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Gbos,
Looks like you had both the door and the fender removed.
Care to share what that fix cost? I'll then convert it from PA to SF Bay Area prices, and ready myself for the shock.
Thanks,
Looks like you had both the door and the fender removed.
Care to share what that fix cost? I'll then convert it from PA to SF Bay Area prices, and ready myself for the shock.
Thanks,
11-28-2016, 07:43 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
Welding with enclosed cavities that can get wet always worry me - did the body shop also spray the inside of the pillar (ie. the backside of the welding) to prevent long term rusting?
This product seems to work really well (I have used it on other cars), and you can spray it inside cavities using only a small hole for access:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html
Cheers,
Mike
This product seems to work really well (I have used it on other cars), and you can spray it inside cavities using only a small hole for access:
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html
Cheers,
Mike
11-28-2016, 07:46 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
Yes had the Door and Fender Removed. I am good friends with the owner for many years and has serviced many of my other vehicles. My price was $1,200 cash. This type of job normally at his shop is $2,400 on average. Lots of labor hours involved to get it done right the first time!
11-28-2016, 08:41 PM
#43
Yes had the Door and Fender Removed. I am good friends with the owner for many years and has serviced many of my other vehicles. My price was $1,200 cash. This type of job normally at his shop is $2,400 on average. Lots of labor hours involved to get it done right the first time!
Cheers
11-28-2016, 08:52 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Thanks! Yeah if I would have more time in my life currently would have done it myself also. Time = money
11-28-2016, 09:03 PM
#45
