Way to bypass Drive Block?
#16
Racer
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Some may not know that you do not need to cycle through the lock/unlock process to start an unlocked car.
Just turn the key to the on position, press the lock button on the fob, the red light on the door sill will flash
but the doors will not lock, then turn key clockwise to the start position.
Just turn the key to the on position, press the lock button on the fob, the red light on the door sill will flash
but the doors will not lock, then turn key clockwise to the start position.
#17
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I realized a while back that if you unlock the car, get in and start it right away the fob does not need pressed again. Or if the car stalls, just turn the key off and start without the fob.
Before that knowledge the system was a pain.
Before that knowledge the system was a pain.
#18
Rennlist Member
#19
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My 911 is not a daily driver and after years of convertible ownership I never leave anything of value in the car so the windows are usually left open and doors unlocked. I NEVER worry about theft. I'm with the OP that its clunky, annoying & goofy to have to blip the fob even with an unlocked car. I often loan/trade my cars with a few enthusiast friends and have to train them on a system which is not intuitive or similar to other cars. Of course, most of the cars in our loaner pool are vintage and have no fobs. There's something nice about flipping the keys to an appreciative friend and only having to say 'reverse is right and down'. No PIN or programming required!
Believe me, I am comfortable with technology and employ a rigorous 'pre-flight' routine when using a motorcycle so I really can manage the disarming process without a sticky note reminder although I suppose that I could make a tidy little sign with a label maker... What about the precious seconds lost at every start? Whats the point of a left hand ignition switch now? Porsche never would have won Le Mans with Drive Block. Sadly, I discovered that the fix is straightforward yet $1000 so I suppose I'll continue to deal with my useless immobilizer and complain only to a small group of sympathetic RL'ers
Achieve inner peace; lose the Drive Block
Believe me, I am comfortable with technology and employ a rigorous 'pre-flight' routine when using a motorcycle so I really can manage the disarming process without a sticky note reminder although I suppose that I could make a tidy little sign with a label maker... What about the precious seconds lost at every start? Whats the point of a left hand ignition switch now? Porsche never would have won Le Mans with Drive Block. Sadly, I discovered that the fix is straightforward yet $1000 so I suppose I'll continue to deal with my useless immobilizer and complain only to a small group of sympathetic RL'ers
Achieve inner peace; lose the Drive Block
#21
Rennlist Member
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#22
Rennlist Member
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Unless the clutch switch at the base of the pedal cluster has been by-passed, the clutch must be depressed before the car will start. Failure or mis-adjustment of this microswitch has been the cause of many people blaming the IMMOBILIZER when such is not the case. If the switch has been by-passed, the car can be started w/o depressing the clutch which is easier on the t/o bearing but requires assurance that the car is out of gear...otherwise, brain fade will get you in trouble!
#23
Rennlist Member
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Pressing the clutch in while starting is supposed to be harder on the center crank bearings.
Precious seconds? Are you an ambulance driver or Batman? ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, I have a neatly printed label above my ignition switch to not depress the clutch when starting. It looks fine in a race car where lots of other things are labeled but I understand it could appear out of place on a street car.
No label needed for the drive block. To me, it's as simple and automatic as walking up to a modern car and hitting the door unlock button on a remote. If I futz around in the car before lighting it up, I've learned to hit the 993's fob button before turning the key.
Our cars may be spec'd out entirely differently, but my late model build '95 does not have a clutch switch. I seriously doubt that the two previous owners, a doctor and a real estate developer, took the time to modify the bone-stock 993 I bought eleven years ago
My 911 is not a daily driver and after years of convertible ownership I never leave anything of value in the car so the windows are usually left open and doors unlocked. I NEVER worry about theft. I'm with the OP that its clunky, annoying & goofy to have to blip the fob even with an unlocked car. I often loan/trade my cars with a few enthusiast friends and have to train them on a system which is not intuitive or similar to other cars. Of course, most of the cars in our loaner pool are vintage and have no fobs. There's something nice about flipping the keys to an appreciative friend and only having to say 'reverse is right and down'. No PIN or programming required!
Believe me, I am comfortable with technology and employ a rigorous 'pre-flight' routine when using a motorcycle so I really can manage the disarming process without a sticky note reminder although I suppose that I could make a tidy little sign with a label maker... What about the precious seconds lost at every start? Whats the point of a left hand ignition switch now? Porsche never would have won Le Mans with Drive Block. Sadly, I discovered that the fix is straightforward yet $1000 so I suppose I'll continue to deal with my useless immobilizer and complain only to a small group of sympathetic RL'ers
Achieve inner peace; lose the Drive Block
Believe me, I am comfortable with technology and employ a rigorous 'pre-flight' routine when using a motorcycle so I really can manage the disarming process without a sticky note reminder although I suppose that I could make a tidy little sign with a label maker... What about the precious seconds lost at every start? Whats the point of a left hand ignition switch now? Porsche never would have won Le Mans with Drive Block. Sadly, I discovered that the fix is straightforward yet $1000 so I suppose I'll continue to deal with my useless immobilizer and complain only to a small group of sympathetic RL'ers
Achieve inner peace; lose the Drive Block
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, I have a neatly printed label above my ignition switch to not depress the clutch when starting. It looks fine in a race car where lots of other things are labeled but I understand it could appear out of place on a street car.
No label needed for the drive block. To me, it's as simple and automatic as walking up to a modern car and hitting the door unlock button on a remote. If I futz around in the car before lighting it up, I've learned to hit the 993's fob button before turning the key.
Unless the clutch switch at the base of the pedal cluster has been by-passed, the clutch must be depressed before the car will start. Failure or mis-adjustment of this microswitch has been the cause of many people blaming the IMMOBILIZER when such is not the case. If the switch has been by-passed, the car can be started w/o depressing the clutch which is easier on the t/o bearing but requires assurance that the car is out of gear...otherwise, brain fade will get you in trouble!
#24
Race Car
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Our cars may be spec'd out entirely differently, but my late model build '95 does not have a clutch switch. I seriously doubt that the two previous owners, a doctor and a real estate developer, took the time to modify the bone-stock 993 I bought eleven years ago
#25
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"Is there a way to bypass drive block system."
Usually results in problematic DME ECM issues, e.g. emissions tests.
Bottom line: Not a good mod, if one desires to maintain the 993's resale value!
Usually results in problematic DME ECM issues, e.g. emissions tests.
Bottom line: Not a good mod, if one desires to maintain the 993's resale value!
#26
Race Director
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thrust bearing wear.
something about applying forward pressure to the crank (through the pressure plate) while cranking (little oil pressure) tends to cause thrust bearing wear.
As for the immobilizer, when its operating properly, it is not an annoyance at all.
get in, turn key to position 2, press button, start car.
what the hell is the big deal.
something about applying forward pressure to the crank (through the pressure plate) while cranking (little oil pressure) tends to cause thrust bearing wear.
As for the immobilizer, when its operating properly, it is not an annoyance at all.
get in, turn key to position 2, press button, start car.
what the hell is the big deal.
#27
Rennlist Member
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Per the esteemed Steve Weiner:
https://rennlist.com/forums/5202760-post12.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-or-turbo.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/5202760-post12.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-or-turbo.html
#28
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thrust bearing wear.
something about applying forward pressure to the crank (through the pressure plate) while cranking (little oil pressure) tends to cause thrust bearing wear.
As for the immobilizer, when its operating properly, it is not an annoyance at all.
get in, turn key to position 2, press button, start car.
what the hell is the big deal.
something about applying forward pressure to the crank (through the pressure plate) while cranking (little oil pressure) tends to cause thrust bearing wear.
As for the immobilizer, when its operating properly, it is not an annoyance at all.
get in, turn key to position 2, press button, start car.
what the hell is the big deal.
This post also reminds me that I need to disable the clutch switch in my 97.....
Cheers,
Joe
#29
RL Technical Advisor
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I do this all the time and this has ZERO effect on emissions.
Other concerns,..that's completely subjective.
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