blacksparrow

Circling back to these comments...

Can someone clarify, are these less good or when Porsche realized there were problems, did they correct the parts?

I will ask who rebuilt and what they did... the guy I am working with, John, who sems fair mentioned they keep a record/video of all the engine builds, evidently they have an old master tech do the rebuilds?

Will ask as well... maybe you can tell by the parts list attached...
When they PPI, they can check the LSD, right... car also comes with 90 drivetrain warranty... that should cover the LSD right?

Here is a direct quote from sales guy John, who has been helpfull and not a DB like most sales...

"The motor was torn down completely 3 weeks ago by our 28 year Goldmeister tech. The secondary air flow port mods were performed to the heads and the engine was resealed. I have service working on putting together a detailed listing, but attached something from our internal notes that may give you some insight. In addition to the engine work and reseal we installed a new clutch, new front and rear brakes, new front and rear tires."

And then he sent this paperwork (sorry pg 2 is a repeat), none of the additional work yet though...

NP993

The real problem with the valve guides was the poor job the factory often did fitting them to the valve stem. Quality of the material is a distant second -- lots of high-mileage 993's on original guides that were fitted correctly at the factory. That said, I'd be surprised if the machine shop the heads were sent to didn't use the updated guides. Hard not to be aware of those at this point.

blacksparrow

I was told the entire clutch was done... and I thought there were issues with the LWF on the '95?

I see the exhaust valve guides on the Porsche parts order... hmmmm, so these are poor relative to aftermarket... or do they used an improved version now?

Also, in CA, wouldn't I have issues registering it with the SAI pump missing?

race911

Y'all see that "Z" on the suffix to the valve guide p/n? I'll say with 90+% certainty that means they are NOT Porsche OE guides. We are talking Brumos here. Think they have guys on staff who remember an air cooled car or two? But yeah, if you're tearing into it why not do the intakes?

And you can have problems passing a CA smog visual on a 100% compliant car if the smog guy had a bad cup of coffee that morning....... But it's not like the old days where the BAR gave them the beat down for not putting a vacuum gauge on the EGR valve to ensure: 1. it was there, and 2. it operated.

blacksparrow

Didn't see this before my last post, so the valve guide issues were more about fitment issue?

And could it be that they only did the exhaust guides as they are on the bottom of the motor... I saw in a PPI post that Tony Callas says to remove the bottom engine tray as it could lead to overheating the engine and excessive wear on the guides?

quote from another post, "Tony, along with several other experts, recommends removing this tray. I think this tray is part of the valve guide wear problem. It holds too much heat in near the heads."

This car still has the engine tray on...they did the exhaust, just a thought... maybe the intake valves/guides are in spec?

techman1

OP
Yes, that is a few quick checks for damage. A carfax will show any reported incident, but if a corner was damaged a prior owner may have covered it himself.

blacksparrow

The Z on the suffix p/n is an interesting note... i would have never known that.

I will see if indeed they are aftermarket valve guides and inquire about the Intake valves.

Thank for chiming in!

kjr914

Is it just my eyes, or is this missing the rear quarter panel stone guards? Looks like the rear quarter has a bit of pitting in pic #2.

If they are missing, consider NOT having the dealer put them on, but use the clear ones from FDMotorsports....just installed mine and really like the clear vs colored. ....possible that the factory one for a black car IS clear, but not sure....

blacksparrow

Yes, dealer removed them, they were yellowed and not nice looking according to them, I planned to have all the paint touch up, color sand, detail, etc. dome then re-install... thanks for the tip on brand.

race911

Note the other "Z" suffixed parts, too. Some may be OE, just not sourced through the dealer network to keep their margins up.

Funnyism from a loooooong time ago was a question directed to my Worldwide Trading rep about who his largest customer was. The MBZ dealer in Newport Beach. Huh, a dealer? Seems anything they didn't need to get through the factory network they got from one of the direct importers.

(Worldwide Trading is now known as Worldpac, and was started by some Germans who ended up in the Bay Area importing VW parts circa 1970. A business you all here probably buy from, Autohaus Arizona, was one of their satellites back in the Olden Days when I had my shop down there. Owner was a real nice guy named Gunter, who's probably passed on by now.)

Coyote

OK, I'll probably get crucified for this, but I'm gonna say it anyway and take the blows. ...
I'm not so convinced that a little respray work, or even a total respray, is all that big a deal. In fact, I really don't get the almost fanatical position people take about "perfect, original paint". I've had both a 3.2 Carrera and a newer Boxster S with perfect, original paint and I gotta tell you, I had a pit in my stomach every time I drove them because I was so damn worried about what might ding, chip, scratch or otherwise fetter up an original paint job on them. Frankly, it took A LOT of enjoyment out of owning the cars for me. I've also owned 2 911's, including my current '95 993, that have had resprays and it is almost liberating knowing that I can really enjoy driving them without worrying about a few rock chips. If I want to respray the front end at some point because I want it to look nicer then I'll do it without the guilt of ruining an original paint job. Let's face it, these cars aren't new and most have some decent miles under them. They were meant to be driven and driven hard on occasion and when you drive a car in the real world it's gonna get some road rash and develop some character. The 993's are at least 15 years old now and that is gonna mean that they have experienced the road. Let's get over the perfect paint thing already! I would much rather buy a car that has been driven and well maintained by someone that wasn't afraid of putting money into it when it was needed, and sometimes just because they wanted to than a car that has sat in a cocoon and been babied and never really been used as it was intended - even if that meant a little paint work. That said, I obviously own a 993 to enjoy driving it and part of the enjoyment is looking at it too so I'm not a complete saint when it comes to wanting a nice looking car as well. I'm just not convinced that original paint is all that important.
Obviously, the big question is WHY the paint was needed. As long as I can confirm that the paint didnt happen due to a serious accident that may have damaged the geometry of the car in some way and that it was done up to highly professional standards then I say no big deal. But that's just me.....
Get a good PPI, understand the history as best you can, follow your gut and pull the trigger when it feels good. You'll put some money into the car no matter what, that's half the fun. Buy it, drive it, and enjoy it without worrying about it. My resprayed 993 is my favorite 911 yet and that's because it looks awesome and I don't worry about driving it because I can always fix anything that may go wrong. Buy it, drive it, enjoy it!

techman1

Agree with you regarding the paint. Not wanting incentive to park it in the garage and not drive! Looking at the light lenses and behind the headlight buckets can help spot a repain from chips from rocks, versus front end damage Then check for repairs done with sub-standard parts.

blacksparrow

Agree, it is to be driven... I just want it to look nice too. I was hoping there might be some experience with black paint and hood chips here, and some insight on that, since it looks good otherwise... I would rather spend $1k on a amazing restorative detail, with touch up and color sand, then maintain it, and any new defects, etc. than to respray at much greater cost an be precious about it... I want to drive it, not show it!

Any thoughts further in that direction are appreciated

blacksparrow

Just in from the dealer...

"Dover Machine here in Jacksonville did the machine and head work. You are correct, the “Z” means the valves are aftermarket ( the original factory type valves do have an issue with hardness). The motor was taken down due to needing a reseal, not a rebuild. We went ahead with the headwork due to the known secondary air port issues… compression/leak down numbers were/are excellent."

He didn't directly answer why the Intake Valves were not done, but I guess the shop or master tech who did the build can answer the thinking on that... they did say it was one due to excessive leaking.

Here is a link to the shop, maybe someone knows it?... http://www.dovercylinderhead-jax.com

I am awaiting the specifics on cyl vs %, hope to have that in soon.

PPI is Monday and I am planning on putting the PPI mechanic Seth, in touch with the shop who did the top end work.

Any other thoughts on this? Thanks guys...

Coyote

I did a front end respray for rock chips on my 2006 Boxster S that was black. Just have a reputable shop do it that works on Porsches. There should be plenty of people either here or even at your Porsche dealership that will point you in the right direction in your area. After the respray cured I had clear bra installed on the entire front end of the car. Great protection and was a nice bonus come resale time.
The respray on my '95 is midnight blue metallic and I have to say that one of the best things about the respray is that the car looks fantastica! And because it's a respray I'm not nearly as uptite and anxious about future dings. Considering a clear bra install this spring just to prevent what I can.