+1...And I agree....Much less annoying than an oil change.

 

Wait - rotors too? Calipers have to come off anyway to do rotors, yes?

Glad you got it worked out.

 

Calipers off to do rotors.
Calipers on to do pads only. (Way more effort than needed to deal with a dangling caliper if you took it off...)

My "patented" spreader tool: Channel Lock pliers (with blue tape on the jaws to avoid scratching caliper and do 1 side at a time, slow squeeze). I used a screwdriver in the past, but worried about marring the rotor as I levered off of it.....probably not an issue as I think about it now.

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=693356&referrerid=28499

 

Fluid in the MC isn't even what's important here. It's a safety issue.

What is important is that if you do spread the calipers (i.e. push the pistons back in) and then you don't pump the brake a few times while stationary to bring the pedal back up, then the first time you go for the brakes as you approach the end of the block, the pedal is likely going to hit the floor and you'll continue coasting into the intersection.

 

I don't know how many pads I've changed....never even considered buying a tool to do it.

 

Yeah, I was trying to change the pads without removing the calipers like I have done on other cars and motorcycles.

I didn't realize those spiders keep the pads locked to the pistons.
Michael

 

And this from a man who probably has every tool for the 993!!!

 

A screwdriver works well if there is no lip on the rotor. I prefer an adjustable C-clamp. One end goes on the inside of the top of the pad, the other on the caliper (put a shop or paper towel between the caliper and the clamp so that it doesn't damage the paint. Then tighten. Works like a dream every time.

 

I made a slide hammer attachment similar to that Hazet tool. Sometimes the pads stick in there pretty good, so it's handy to pop em out. I use rubber jaw covers on a set of 12" Channellocks to depress the pistons.

 

I use a brake piston separator to get my pads in and out. Makes life infinitely easier. Cheap and easy to use. Don't know why everyone doesn't have one.

 

I had to revisit my thread here. I am doing an experiment because I was sent an incomplete order of spiders and I didn't get enough for both rear calipers.

SO one side has fresh pads and spiders. The other side has fresh pads and no spiders.

As of now, I have driven 50 miles and no noise from either of the rears. I thought I would immediately hear something.

I am going to let the experiment go until I get the spiders from Pelican.

I seriously doubt anyone is interested, but I will share my results in a few days.

--Michael

 

Its a hit and miss sort of thing - some squeal even with all spiders, some do not squeal with no spiders. I think it depends on a number of factors, like the condition of the tops of the pistons, play with the pad in the caliper, alignment of the caliper to brake disk, brake disk condition and material, bearing runout, etc. On a squealing car, its often not clear which one is contributing the most - you can also get glazing on the pads if you DE the car and go through a few heat cycles, that can often bring out some noises....

Cheers,

Mike

 

Thanks Mike.

The old pads in the rear were super thin when I replaced them. They both were making so much noise that I was giving myself whiplash every time I had to brake in order to get the Italian brake job to work.

They weren't glazed but the a few of the metal pieces that fit into the pistons were separated from the round discs. I think that and the age of the pads had something to do with the bad noise.

Now everything is good and quiet at 100 miles. I got the spiders today so they go in Friday.

Thanks for bringing to mind the notion that there are a few other things to consider as well.

--Michael