RLers:

I need to pull the pads so I can replace them. Is this the only tool that will work?
http://www.eagleday.com/padpuller.html

Or does anyone know where I can get the ATE tool mentioned in the p-car DIY? When I searched for it I learned that it was discontinued.

I tried pulling the pads using a couple of makeshift tools and couldn't get them out.

--Michael

 

I'm assuming this is front. Did you pull the caliper? If you have stock pads with the noise reducing spiders on them, you will need to take off the caliper in order to remove the brake pads.

 

you do not need anything fancy.

If you are struggling, remove the calliper and just pull them out. If you use loctite, you can reuse the front caliper bolts.

If the pads have spyders and you want to pull them out through the caliper, then use a putty knife to separate the spyder from the pad, use a flat screwdriver to get some space between the pad and the rotor, and just a pair of pliers to pull the pad out.

Nothing fancy required.

Cheers,

Mike

 

You can do as Mike indicated; or have you heard of Google.com? It is a search engine for the internet. Interestingly enough, this is what I found when I used it...It could be your friend too!

https://mercedessource.com/node/7947

 

Mike,

I'm in the process of pulling my Pagid's out & re-installing my OEM pads. When removing the stockers I separated the spiders/backing plate from the pad to get them out w/o removing the caliper. Can you recommend a high temp adhesive to use on the backing plate ? Sorry to hijack....

 

Dude, I have that tool and the pins are too large. Save the sarcasm for someone who will appreciate it. I don't.

--Michael

 

Here's what I do. I use the ATE brake piston rewind tool to push the pads
back, then use a putty knife to separate the pads from the anti-squeal spyders,
then just lift the pads out with your fingers. Then use the ATE tool again to
push the pistons back fully to install the pads and anti-sqeal spyders. Here's
4 pictures that illustrate.

-bruce

 

Nice - I just use a screwdriver... :-)

 

Thanks for the tips. I will just pull the calipers. I was trying to avoid that but what the heck. It is not difficult.
--Michael

 

It is sooo simple to remove pads. All you will need are:

1. A bleeder bottle with tubing to connect to the caliper nipple,
2. A set of channel locks with some duct tape on the gripping surfaces so you don't scratch the calipers.

A. Hook the tubing to the caliper nipples, an inner and an outer on each caliper, some start with the inners.
B. Remove the protective cover(s) off the nipple(s), sequence inner and outer,
C. Connect the bleeder bottle tubing to the nipple(s), sequence inner and outer,
D. Crack the bleeder(s), one at a time
E. Use the Channel Locks to grip the pad and the caliper and drive the pistons back into the caliper..
F. Voila, remove the brake pad...and insert replacement.

After each caliper replacement, check the master cylinder to be certain it is at the right level, if not, top it off.

BTW, taking the calipers off to change brake pads, what a pain in the ***...and you have to buy new bolts to reattach the calipers.

Now if you dealing with spiders...I don't know dick about the spiders, don't use them.

 

Another tip. After each set, seat pads by reaching in and pushing the brake a few times. Keeps fluid from getting too high in master.

 

Dude, I had no idea as to the level of your resourcefulness...
Now that I do; you can either grind the existing pins to fit your application, or drill them out and replace with something you can fab up that fit the existing holes. The tool that you have is doing you no good in its existing configuration. Maybe you could modify it into a state of usefulness?

Common man! The sarcasm was at least a little bit funny, wasn't it?

My apologies...I wasn't trying to hurt your feelings...You gotta know a great many post requests just because they are to lazy to spend any time of their own doing a little research.

 

After reading I need to elaborate. The fluid level will still probably need to be emptied a little. If you pump the brakes as you go you will be more accurate with your fluid level. Not do all, get it too high, drain fluid, pump brakes, level drops too much, then re-add.

 

It's all good. No worries.

I think I will just take the calipers off. Should be easy that way.
--Michael

 

Thanks Mike J. It just hit around 40 degrees out so I decided to do the brakes in a not so cold garage. Everything worked out great. Took calipers off, got sensors out without breaking them, spiders all came out in tact and easily. All in all, quick and straightforward.

Thanks for the tips. This was the first time doing brakes/rotors on this car so I was relieved that it was way less annoying than the oil change!

--Michael