Planning to install RS hub
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Planning to install RS hub
Broke an alternator belt and put my old spare on. Decided to go ahead and do the RS fan hub conversion. Ordered parts from Rothsport and will probably install this weekend.
Is there a better DIY out there than this one?
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...tl-photos.html
I was hoping not to have to remove the alternator or anything. I might should paint the fan or something while I have it out, but mine is in good shape, so I may just clean it up good and get a coat of wax on.
Any thought or pointers on the job? Thanks!
-Bart
Is there a better DIY out there than this one?
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...tl-photos.html
I was hoping not to have to remove the alternator or anything. I might should paint the fan or something while I have it out, but mine is in good shape, so I may just clean it up good and get a coat of wax on.
Any thought or pointers on the job? Thanks!
-Bart
#2
Rennlist Member
A couple of comments to a well done DIY in the 'good' link.
Disconnect the battery ground, for as at a minimum, you will be tugging the fan/alt combo out into the light of day: if the bearing sticks, the whole assembly comes out.
Generally, the bearing sticks to either the fan - or alt. shaft: occasionally, to both . Rather than use pullers on a $500 magnesium alloy fan, I prefer to cradle the whole lump in my lap ..... and tap the protected end of the alt shaft with a soft face hammer with the alt hanging downwards ( also something below to cushion the alternator when if pops off).
There is no need to consider the new RS hub a press/interference fit to either the shaft or bore of the fan: polish the fan bore with a fine emery cloth until the RS hub slips in easily. You will pat yourself on the back much later - when the fan has to come out for an alternator brush set, etc.
Lightly lube all contacts with a tacky grease, and assemble.
Doing this will allow one to easily remove the fan in future without loosening the alternator - yes, there is room to wiggle the fan out!
Do not loctite the M5 10mm nuts on the studs - use M5 nylock nuts, and carry a 10mm wrench with your spare fan belt.
Make up a jumper to short out the harness to the inner belt wheely sensor deal .... and throw the latter away!! If the single belt breaks, the loss of the alternator is more than adequate warning - whole dash lights up.
I sliced the male plug off a Bosch fuel injector, and soldered a jumper across the pins on the cut side: epoxy seal the exposed jumper, and this little piece plugs directly into the female harness.
Disconnect the battery ground, for as at a minimum, you will be tugging the fan/alt combo out into the light of day: if the bearing sticks, the whole assembly comes out.
Generally, the bearing sticks to either the fan - or alt. shaft: occasionally, to both . Rather than use pullers on a $500 magnesium alloy fan, I prefer to cradle the whole lump in my lap ..... and tap the protected end of the alt shaft with a soft face hammer with the alt hanging downwards ( also something below to cushion the alternator when if pops off).
There is no need to consider the new RS hub a press/interference fit to either the shaft or bore of the fan: polish the fan bore with a fine emery cloth until the RS hub slips in easily. You will pat yourself on the back much later - when the fan has to come out for an alternator brush set, etc.
Lightly lube all contacts with a tacky grease, and assemble.
Doing this will allow one to easily remove the fan in future without loosening the alternator - yes, there is room to wiggle the fan out!
Do not loctite the M5 10mm nuts on the studs - use M5 nylock nuts, and carry a 10mm wrench with your spare fan belt.
Make up a jumper to short out the harness to the inner belt wheely sensor deal .... and throw the latter away!! If the single belt breaks, the loss of the alternator is more than adequate warning - whole dash lights up.
I sliced the male plug off a Bosch fuel injector, and soldered a jumper across the pins on the cut side: epoxy seal the exposed jumper, and this little piece plugs directly into the female harness.
#3
Burning Brakes
I have done the RS hub conversion and I found it to be a complete waste of time and money.
No noticeable difference.
If you go ahead then it is a great time to paint the fan and fan housing. Paint the fan red and get some bling in the engine bay. Powder coat of my fan housing black improved looks.
No noticeable difference.
If you go ahead then it is a great time to paint the fan and fan housing. Paint the fan red and get some bling in the engine bay. Powder coat of my fan housing black improved looks.
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I did not like the lack of charging when idling with the RS pulley - if using Halogen lights you can see them dim out if accessories are on. If you use the car in lots of stop and go traffic I think the battery takes a realy kicking.
I loved the simplicity of the pulley, and had it on my Targa, but will not upgrade the Turbo with it. Well recommended if you do mostly highway or track, but not for city driving.
Cheers,
Mike
I loved the simplicity of the pulley, and had it on my Targa, but will not upgrade the Turbo with it. Well recommended if you do mostly highway or track, but not for city driving.
Cheers,
Mike
#5
TIA
#6
Drifting
Penetrating oil and patience. Fan-to-fan bearing and fan bearing-to-alternator shaft will be nearly welded in place.... I had it out of the car and would turn the puller bolts and go away for a while...come back and do it again...and walk away. Slow and steady.
A search will bring up a method of removing the fan+bearing using some longer bolts that might work as well as the puller. Didn't get to try that way, but it seems to get some good reviews.
A search will bring up a method of removing the fan+bearing using some longer bolts that might work as well as the puller. Didn't get to try that way, but it seems to get some good reviews.
#7
Rennlist Member
I did not like the lack of charging when idling with the RS pulley - if using Halogen lights you can see them dim out if accessories are on. If you use the car in lots of stop and go traffic I think the battery takes a realy kicking.
I loved the simplicity of the pulley, and had it on my Targa, but will not upgrade the Turbo with it. Well recommended if you do mostly highway or track, but not for city driving.
Cheers,
Mike
I loved the simplicity of the pulley, and had it on my Targa, but will not upgrade the Turbo with it. Well recommended if you do mostly highway or track, but not for city driving.
Cheers,
Mike
Also be very careful when connecting the wires back to the alternator, when I installed my RS Alt hub, I switched 2 of the 3 and burned out the alternator and had to replace. $$$
Now that I don't track my car anymore, I want to go back to the 3 belt system.
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#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
Also found Mike's link here.
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...or_Replacement
And Robin's:
http://p-car.com/diy/alternator/alternator.html
I suspect this is going to be one of those frustrating jobs that I get in the middle of and say "why didn't I just replace the gorram belts!?"
I don't drive in much city traffic with it, so I hope the charging won't be an issue. On a side note to that, I recently installed a battery disconnect switch on my Odyssey 925 to hopefully preserve it. Is there anything I should worry about on the ECU having to relearn after a disconnect? I don't have any emissions tests to go through or anything.
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...or_Replacement
And Robin's:
http://p-car.com/diy/alternator/alternator.html
I suspect this is going to be one of those frustrating jobs that I get in the middle of and say "why didn't I just replace the gorram belts!?"
I don't drive in much city traffic with it, so I hope the charging won't be an issue. On a side note to that, I recently installed a battery disconnect switch on my Odyssey 925 to hopefully preserve it. Is there anything I should worry about on the ECU having to relearn after a disconnect? I don't have any emissions tests to go through or anything.
#9
Burning Brakes
I didnt have any problems with power to the electrics. I also run the 925 without any problems in stop start traffic.
Fan was also powder coated in silver. Housing was coated in black. No problems with clearance.
before / after:
Fan was also powder coated in silver. Housing was coated in black. No problems with clearance.
before / after:
#11
Burning Brakes
CF pipe gives some nice engine bling but no performance gains to be had. It saves 3 or 4kg perhaps. The pipe is sitting in my garage since I installed the SC. The engine bay looked great when I painted the intake manifolds. If I had the car NA I would keep the CF pipe in there for looks only.
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
Penetrating oil and patience. Fan-to-fan bearing and fan bearing-to-alternator shaft will be nearly welded in place.... I had it out of the car and would turn the puller bolts and go away for a while...come back and do it again...and walk away. Slow and steady.
A search will bring up a method of removing the fan+bearing using some longer bolts that might work as well as the puller. Didn't get to try that way, but it seems to get some good reviews.
A search will bring up a method of removing the fan+bearing using some longer bolts that might work as well as the puller. Didn't get to try that way, but it seems to get some good reviews.
Edit: Nevermind, I see geolabs note now.
Last edited by bart1; 11-10-2012 at 10:44 AM.
#13
Thread 3 long M6 bolts through the holes in the fan hub, long enough to bottom against the alternator. Tighten equally around & they'll push the hub off.
From the other thread, bolts thread into holes in hub next to where the puller arms are here:
To install, heat up the new hub in boiling water - it'll slip right on.
here's another good thread describing belt tension, etc. -> https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...e-v-belts.html
From the other thread, bolts thread into holes in hub next to where the puller arms are here:
To install, heat up the new hub in boiling water - it'll slip right on.
here's another good thread describing belt tension, etc. -> https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...e-v-belts.html
#14
Race Car
Thread Starter
Done. I used long bolts but hub came off with fan. I'll post pics later. Belt is tight, will check after some miles. Rothsport belt is a little different size.