Dip Stick - question on reading the oil level
08-31-2012, 02:18 PM
#17
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The sensor is on the tank - 6 nuts hold it in. YOU can see it on the side of the tank facing the rear of the car when you see the oil tank. On an oil change, take off the liner to expose the tank, remove the sensor bolts, gently ply the sensor from the tank. It will not come out all the way, but enough to see the float on the end of the rod. Bend the rod ->upwards to be less sensitive, downwards to be more sensitive. Put the sensor back into the tank, tighten up the bolts (not too tight) and you are good to go. You do not have to replace the gasket, but be very careful when removing it, often the gasket can stick. I use a dental pick to get under the gasket and work my way around the sensor. I have done 10+ of these, and no leaks yet, and often can get the gauge to accurately reflect the dipstick on the first go.
If you need about 1/4 of the gauge, give the arm a good bend - say 15 - 20 degrees - due to the angles you may need a good bend to make the gauge move.
you are right, I need to go into Pcarworkshop and update it - lots of stuff to update, I think that will be my winters project.
Cheers,
Mike
If you need about 1/4 of the gauge, give the arm a good bend - say 15 - 20 degrees - due to the angles you may need a good bend to make the gauge move.
you are right, I need to go into Pcarworkshop and update it - lots of stuff to update, I think that will be my winters project.
Cheers,
Mike
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silverlock (09-25-2022)
08-31-2012, 02:41 PM
#18
if you pull the relay cover you can manually engage high and low speed (same relay for the AC fan on the other side).. I just replaced both resistors on mine and everything works now.. will also add a manual switch this winter to get uber cooling, ja! Oil side is easy to swap.. AC is a PIA.. it's a hidden\covered\hard to get to allen head and used a bit on a small wrench to turn it 1/100th turn at a time.. took a while, but done (add beer to offset frustration) .. if you have a ratchet wrench that is small enough to hold screw\allen removable bits that will speed things up (same tool is good for the plug wire screws under the variorum if you are doing that - should be in the cars toolkit)
maybe the heat wasn't that bad, mine hits that too, was more curious on the conditions to get that high.
motor on!
phil.
maybe the heat wasn't that bad, mine hits that too, was more curious on the conditions to get that high.
motor on!
phil.
08-31-2012, 02:46 PM
#19
Race Director
It was a hot morning, but I think the main reason might be that I took the shot after letting the car idle for some time while stationary. Here's a earlier picture I took after about 10 mins of driving with less idle time.
It might not be an issue, but is there a way to check if the oil cooler fan is working or activate it manually?
It might not be an issue, but is there a way to check if the oil cooler fan is working or activate it manually?
To check the fans you can insert a jumper where the relay is. Many people install a manual fan switch whereby you can control when the high speed fan comes on.
Gimme a break, that's not hot - its upper midrange. You are freaking out the guy.
Next oil change, you can have your level sensor in the oil tank calibrated - any good tech should know how. Ask them to do that, and if they do not know how, that tells you something.
You likely have your fan resistor burned out (so no low speed) so the oil temperator will spike before the high speed fan gets turned on -> you can get that fixed, and as well you should look at the manual fan bypass. No worries, you can drive the car at that temperature but its not that great for long term health.
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...verride_Switch
Cheers,
Mike
Next oil change, you can have your level sensor in the oil tank calibrated - any good tech should know how. Ask them to do that, and if they do not know how, that tells you something.
You likely have your fan resistor burned out (so no low speed) so the oil temperator will spike before the high speed fan gets turned on -> you can get that fixed, and as well you should look at the manual fan bypass. No worries, you can drive the car at that temperature but its not that great for long term health.
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...verride_Switch
Cheers,
Mike
08-31-2012, 06:42 PM
#20
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Mike, thx for the quick reply... As I read your I can remember seeing it before but could not find it.
Sounds simple enough about a 1-beer activity...
Sounds simple enough about a 1-beer activity...
08-31-2012, 07:27 PM
#21
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09-01-2012, 10:57 AM
#22
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To answer an earlier question, both filters were changed and the whole process took about 1.5 - 2 hrs of time.
I just got back from a 30 min drive. I have attached a picture of the oil gauge with the engine idling and car sitting on a flat surface. I attempted to take a picture of the dip stick but it didn't come out too well. The gauge reading looks fine but the dip stick level still appears to be towards the top end of the range - though I'm not certain I'm reading it properly.
I just got back from a 30 min drive. I have attached a picture of the oil gauge with the engine idling and car sitting on a flat surface. I attempted to take a picture of the dip stick but it didn't come out too well. The gauge reading looks fine but the dip stick level still appears to be towards the top end of the range - though I'm not certain I'm reading it properly.
Makes sense to me that, since the oil level needle is way up to top of scale, that the dipstick should be at the top of the twist also.
I think it's still slightly over filled.
These cars all have a sweet spot regarding oil level. If I run mine slightly higher, via the dipstick and level gauge...I seem to use more. My usage has been fairly consistent at a little less than 1/2 quart every 1K miles. I did have one post oil change where the car didn't use any oil for almost 4K miles, and my driving style didn't change during that period either.
I'm back to normal uasge...
09-01-2012, 11:04 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
Old system-higher the complexity, higher the number for difficulity. Therefore easiest is a 1, hardest is a 10.
New system-higher the complexity, lower the number of beers to be consumed.
So, hardest-1 beer, easiest 10 beers.
Unless, there is a frustration to beer compensation adder. So while changing sparkplugs might be a level 4 task(give or take) on the old system, it might very well be a level 24 task on the new system-at least #6 top IIRC.
Thankfully, I can get frustrated easily...hence the stock pile of legal beverages in the basement.
