newton982

What is the volume of oil from the lowest point of the twisted portion to the highest part?

I just did an oil change where the shop put in 12 quarts. There was no overflow or anything like that but they immediately drained about 2 quarts from the bottom plug after a more experienced tech came by. I ran the car for about 30 mins right afterwards and checked the level and it looks like I'm right at the top of the twisted portion of the dip stick. There is no overflow in the engine compartment or smoke that I understand might be symptomatic of an overfill.

Question is whether I should try to siphon off a little oil so that I get to the middle of the twisted portion of the dipstick. If so, approximately how much oil would need to be siphoned off to get from top to middle?

il pirata

Surprised you have not been flogged yet for not searching OR reading the car manual.

The difference between the top and bottom marks is 1.6 quarts so if the shop drained about 2 quarts:

1. There is no way you could be at the top of the twisted section.

2. You...well actually the car...is LOW on oil.

3. Fire the shop and find a competent mechanic.

newton982

So after a complete drain, 12 quarts would get me to the top of the twisted section? Not higher?

The shop is actually pretty good but they were training a newer mechanic and he filled the oil while the supervising mechanic was away for a moment.

Ed Hughes

There is no absolute answer to your second question. I'd say you'd be higher. 10.5 gets me to the middle on mine.

Not so sure about your shop being pretty good, if they'd allow this to happen.

il pirata

Quick edit since Ed jumped in before I finished typing. The manual says oil capacity is approx. 12.15 quarts. If you search almost everyone fills to the halfway point between the marks otherwise the car tends to blow it back out. If you are SURE you are reading the dipstick correctly the shop could not have drained that much oil. Assume you have driven the car since and oil pressure and temp seem normal.

FWIW if you like the shop you had better get an understanding that ONLY the supervising mechanic works on the car (or whomever is suppose to be the 993 guy) although I agree with Ed. The last thing you want is for someone else to learn on your car...unless it's you.

Magdaddy

10-10.5 qts is about right on a change. The car should be idling and brought up to temp after the 10th is put in. Once the oil temp gauge is past the 8 o'clock point, the tank gauge should show you a reading. Compare that reading(oil to temp, and car on level ground naturally) to what the dipstick shows.

Every car is different. The level gauge should be at approx the 3 o'clock position, and the dipstick at the fat 1/2 to 3/4 area of the twist.

Every car has a sweet spot, some like to run slightly lower on oil than others, it can effect the usage.

Agree with what others have said, this shop needs to be verbally harassed about this oil change. If you were allowed to drive away overfilled, besides a HUGE mess...lots could have happened. From an engine fire, to loosing control when the rear end is spewing oil.

Search previous threads about this issue, and develop a strong and common habit of checking oil levels. Keep a log of how many miles beteween checking the level, and how much if any you have to add. That will give you a solid baseline for usage.

Don't forget, bitch slap that shop. No experienced Porsche shop, especially an air cooled one...does this crap. Oil goes in these cars slowly...mine anyway, the oil fill should take quite some time to perform actually, The car should be running and up to temp, then the tech check's the level, and add until at the proper spot.

Sounds to me like the senior tech don't know squat either. Personally, I don't believe the shop should have released the car to you with that oil level in it.

newton982

I appreciate all the information. Just as an fyi - I used the shop I did based on a recommendation from here. Furthermore, when I went in, there were several other air-cooled Porsches there being serviced or waiting to be serviced.

Ideally I would have much preferred to take my car in, get the oil changed and not have to over-think if it was done wrong or right but most shops have someone they are training at sometime or another so I didn't really see that as an issue. I did like the guys I dealt with so I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and adjust my oil level accordingly after getting some more accurate readings.

Mike J

It can also vary on their oil change technique - especially removing the second filter (they did that, right?). If you remove the main feed line from the tank at the crankcase in order to get to the filter, you will get extra oil. Some people do not remove that line, so they leave more oil in the engine, and thus less to fill.

As I work though peoples cars, we adjust the float sensor for the oil level until the owner is happy with what they are seeing - most of the time I get it first time, but sometimes it takes a few changes. Until you know exactly what your gauge does as compared to the actual oil level at the dipstick (taken at full operating temperature, idling, and on a level surface), use the dipstick.

I usually put in 10 litres to go mid stick with a change that includes:

- both filters
- crankcase drained
- oil feed line drained
- oil tank drained hot

cheers,

Mike

C2Cab95

I'm about to do my first change on my own... Mike and Mag, both your posts were great, and well informed... Thank you!

Mike J

If you are DIY'ing, I would also pull the DME relay after you put in about 6-7 litres (after the oil dump and filter changes of course), and crank the engine until you get oil-pressure, usually 10 seconds or so. It will seem longer. Once you see that oil pressure gauge go to 1 bar or so, you can stop, put the DME relay back in, and then fill some more (say to 8 liters) and then start the car to get all the oil into the car.

I also use the pull-the-dme-relay when the car sits for more than two weeks.

Cheers

Mike

newton982

To answer an earlier question, both filters were changed and the whole process took about 1.5 - 2 hrs of time.

I just got back from a 30 min drive. I have attached a picture of the oil gauge with the engine idling and car sitting on a flat surface. I attempted to take a picture of the dip stick but it didn't come out too well. The gauge reading looks fine but the dip stick level still appears to be towards the top end of the range - though I'm not certain I'm reading it properly.

Quadcammer

holy crap man, that thing is HOT.

manual fan switch.

At that temp, the oil gauge being that high is not outrageous

element

what was the outside air temp? were you in stop\go traffic on your drive? or do you drive like a maniac at 8k rpms only :P

looks HOT for normal driving.. is your high\low oil cooler fan working?

phil.

newton982

It was a hot morning, but I think the main reason might be that I took the shot after letting the car idle for some time while stationary. Here's a earlier picture I took after about 10 mins of driving with less idle time.

It might not be an issue, but is there a way to check if the oil cooler fan is working or activate it manually?

Mike J

Gimme a break, that's not hot - its upper midrange. You are freaking out the guy.

Next oil change, you can have your level sensor in the oil tank calibrated - any good tech should know how. Ask them to do that, and if they do not know how, that tells you something.

You likely have your fan resistor burned out (so no low speed) so the oil temperator will spike before the high speed fan gets turned on -> you can get that fixed, and as well you should look at the manual fan bypass. No worries, you can drive the car at that temperature but its not that great for long term health.

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...verride_Switch

Cheers,

Mike