pvdw

Car is going in the shop for a full respray, correcting some minor chips ans scuffs and attacking a little rust bubble underneath paint on the rear fender.
Doing a full spray while we're at it.

Now, speed yellow is a solid non metallic, none clear coated color and I'm thinking of three options,
1. respray as it was, no coat
2. adding a clear coat finish to it to protect it and finish it better
3. Adding a pearl effect to the clear coat

Purists will say original is best but I'm not so sure of that
I'm not concerned about resale value as it's a keeper

Any expertise on adding clear coats on solid paint?

vincer77

May depend on where you live and what paint systems are available to you. Modern water-based paints will require a color-coat/clear coat system.

The purist in me is fine with that. Having a real hard time with the pearl though.

1pcarnut

If you can do single stage I would definitely go with that as my first choice. It is a single thick coat of paint versus two thinner layers (base/clear) and gives you the chance to correct scratches etc. without the risk of going through the clear. Shine-wise should be little if any difference.

race911

How's Racing Yellow on the 991? I did the lookover at Rennsport Reunion last year, but honestly can't remember if it had that slight pearl effect. Similarly, Fayence Yellow on the Carrera GT?

Sam Zamir

In California, the only (Porsche approved or otherwise) paint available is gonna be waterborne, which must be clearcoated. It'll be waaaaay more resilient to outdoor threats (UV, birds, sprinklers, etc...) than any single stage you might find on the black market. As for pearl - I would agree with the others. It's a quick way to cheapen the look AND the value.

For what it's worth, I would recommend Standox paint (by Dupont).

il pirata

Clearcoat on a solid color is too shiny-almost plastic in appearance and does not have the same depth of finish as a single stage. Finding a shop that has experience is shooting single stage is not easy and if you want them to a use top of the line paint such as Glasurit (which was one of three used by Porsche for the 993) even less so. If you are going to show the car or it is not a daily driver I would go single stage.

Actually single stage is usually at least two or three coats over primer or whatever the base is.

Glasurit line 22 is water based and does not use a clear coat. Agree that I do not see the pearl effect being the way to go.

Glasurit make water based paint that does not use a clear coat, that is not "black market" and is legal in California...well at one shop anyway.

Stealth 993

If they use the higher end paints, I would do a clear, it will be shinier, stay that way longer, & more likely turn out better, then a single stage.

il pirata

I agree that it is shinier but will be lacking the original orange peel...stay that way longer well perhaps but only if you use a car wash, it is a dd, etc...better actually not. It will not have the depth of a single coat.

1pcarnut

Correct and understood this, thanks. Was trying to make the point that it is essentially one "layer" of paint all the way through and thicker than a clear coated finish. Once you polish through a couple of microns of clear, your done and the finish is essentially ruined. DAMHiK

il pirata

Don't ask me how I know. Perfect. Same here.

briefescape

My Riviera Blue was ( sold it ) a single stage paint and needed a front respray only . The body shop I use are very experience high end shop and to get a perfect match with the rest of the car they actually blend clear coat into the colour to achieve the desired result .
The paint matched perfectly and the car was in concours competitions and the car now reside in Italy with a happy new owner .

IMHO get the best body shop and listen to their advice . If they screw it up it is theirs to correct and make it right .

Cheers Guy

pvdw

It' s a well known shop so quality is assured.
They gave me two glasurit sample cards for porsche speed yellow reference, one being little darker then the other, will post references of both.

I'm basically tempted to going for lightest one as I from time to time find the yellow to be too mustardy...

pvdw

Actually three references :
12 G
12 H
12 Q

Anyone now the differences in these ?

pp000830

I would go with single stage and the ability to be rubbed out. Also most single stage scratches do not go through the color. Once a scratch makes it through the clear coat I am not sure how to fix it. Also I have had several cars body shop clear coated. My experience is that they all eventually fail in a few years. Either the edges peal up or they become brittle and lose adhesion and develop flaked off spots.

Stealth 993

They can match orange peel. Clear/base has way more depth & color then single stage. It also takes longer for the color to oxidize. Yellow like to oxidize.

Clear coat is usually thicker then the base color. You get just about the same amount of polishes out of base/clear vs base only. You can totally burn through single stage paint, just as easy as base/clear. Trust me, I've burned through both. :bang head:

I've polished cars that are 20+ years old, & still had plenty of clear coat left, same for single stage. The key is knowledge with a buffer, & a paint depth gauge.

If a scratch goes through to the primer you are looking at repainting. Regardless of the type of paint, or stages. You can buff out most scratches that are not through the clear. But you can also touch up clear much easier then color, & fill the scratch, then buff it out. I just did this on my C4S with some rock chips form 993Fest.

That is poor prep, & a general poor paint job. A good paint job should last many, many years. I've never seen edges peel, or flake on a quality paint job. Any shop who cares would fix that free of charge.