Max Jax arrived!!
07-10-2012, 02:04 PM
#31
i want to get one of these lifts really bad... my garage floor was laid almost 50 years ago, i just dont know i can trust this installation method. I have visions of a chunk of the concrete floor lifting up, age, thinness... i feel like hydroloc would simply pull out from the concrete around it along with the anchor.
i guess if you have an old home, the only option would be to have a large area of the floor cut out, and re-poured by a professional.
that... or we are stuck with 4 post and scissor lifts :-/
i guess if you have an old home, the only option would be to have a large area of the floor cut out, and re-poured by a professional.
that... or we are stuck with 4 post and scissor lifts :-/
07-10-2012, 02:06 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
i want to get one of these lifts really bad... my garage floor was laid almost 50 years ago, i just dont know i can trust this installation method. I have visions of a chunk of the concrete floor lifting up, age, thinness... i feel like hydroloc would simply pull out from the concrete around it along with the anchor.
i guess if you have an old home, the only option would be to have a large area of the floor cut out, and re-poured by a professional.
that... or we are stuck with 4 post and scissor lifts :-/
i guess if you have an old home, the only option would be to have a large area of the floor cut out, and re-poured by a professional.
that... or we are stuck with 4 post and scissor lifts :-/
I think you must get a lift, and a 4 post is just fine, so your friends can use it!
07-10-2012, 02:16 PM
#33
lol we'll put yours up the max jack first MJ, and have you stand under it. 
we're trusting the same builder who put 3 inches of insulation in my attic and used 1/4" sheet rock lol!
we're trusting the same builder who put 3 inches of insulation in my attic and used 1/4" sheet rock lol!
Last edited by EMBPilot; 07-10-2012 at 09:42 PM.
07-10-2012, 03:14 PM
#34
Racer
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OK, so headed out to the garage at 0-dark hundred this morning, couldn't wait to see if the new anchors had taken the 'cure'....
Set the columns in place, in with the new grade 8 bolts and washers, torqued to 70ft/lbs, placed sacrificial Porsche in position...( the 'other' car was absent ), and slowly, slowly raised the car checking every foot for movement at the back of the columns.
This is the pass side column before commencing the lift...
Pass side at full lift...I assume the movement is due to the column flexing under the load, and flexing 'inward' as you would expect, hence the concern for the security of the anchors, particularly the 3 'rear' anchors.
Drivers side before...
Drivers side at full lift...
The sacrificial p-car in position! Note that the columns are set at the maximum recommended width of 130in. This was done to provide as much door clearance for the p-car as possible, and provide the ability to fit a full size pick-up when necessary. However at this width the arms are extended to about 55-60% thus a longer 'lever' for the down force at the columns. Which is why I am concerned about the anchors being secure. There is more 'angle' pressure than 'down' pressure in this case I believe.
I set all the new anchors 1/8th" below the concrete surface in order to be able to observe any movement after torquing. Only 1 of the 10 moved to the surface where it contacted the base of the column. I suppose I should attempt to pull it completely out, re-clean and re-apply epoxy, then re-set the anchor but I'll check it to see if it is really loose or secure in it new position. Any torque value is useless if all you are doing is torquing the anchor against the base of the column...so we'll see. I'm pretty comfortable with just checking after the next few lifts to see if there is any more movement...
Jim
.Set the columns in place, in with the new grade 8 bolts and washers, torqued to 70ft/lbs, placed sacrificial Porsche in position...( the 'other' car was absent ), and slowly, slowly raised the car checking every foot for movement at the back of the columns.
This is the pass side column before commencing the lift...
Pass side at full lift...I assume the movement is due to the column flexing under the load, and flexing 'inward' as you would expect, hence the concern for the security of the anchors, particularly the 3 'rear' anchors.
Drivers side before...
Drivers side at full lift...
The sacrificial p-car in position! Note that the columns are set at the maximum recommended width of 130in. This was done to provide as much door clearance for the p-car as possible, and provide the ability to fit a full size pick-up when necessary. However at this width the arms are extended to about 55-60% thus a longer 'lever' for the down force at the columns. Which is why I am concerned about the anchors being secure. There is more 'angle' pressure than 'down' pressure in this case I believe.
I set all the new anchors 1/8th" below the concrete surface in order to be able to observe any movement after torquing. Only 1 of the 10 moved to the surface where it contacted the base of the column. I suppose I should attempt to pull it completely out, re-clean and re-apply epoxy, then re-set the anchor but I'll check it to see if it is really loose or secure in it new position. Any torque value is useless if all you are doing is torquing the anchor against the base of the column...so we'll see. I'm pretty comfortable with just checking after the next few lifts to see if there is any more movement...
Jim
07-10-2012, 04:09 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
I am cutting out a 2 foot swath just over 12 "deep, the full width and beyond the posts that will have a steel grid embedded in it. The anchors will be 12" long 304 SS rod that is being threaded and set into the concrete with 18"x 18" x 3/8" 304 SS plates that the lift will sit on top of.
07-10-2012, 04:32 PM
#37
I have a newer home and I won't trust the 4 or so inches they poured in my garage.
I am cutting out a 2 foot swath just over 12 "deep, the full width and beyond the posts that will have a steel grid embedded in it. The anchors will be 12" long 304 SS rod that is being threaded and set into the concrete with 18"x 18" x 3/8" 304 SS plates that the lift will sit on top of.
I am cutting out a 2 foot swath just over 12 "deep, the full width and beyond the posts that will have a steel grid embedded in it. The anchors will be 12" long 304 SS rod that is being threaded and set into the concrete with 18"x 18" x 3/8" 304 SS plates that the lift will sit on top of.
07-10-2012, 06:51 PM
#39
No such thing as overkill when it comes to safety. I never backed off a bit on safety and checks when flying. I'm still here; many of my fellow flying friends are not.
Wait till you see my installation. It'll most likely be overkill to you, but not to me when I am under the car.
Wait till you see my installation. It'll most likely be overkill to you, but not to me when I am under the car.
I am enjoying and learning from this thread...
carry on...
07-11-2012, 12:39 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
Nice job on the install! I really like my MaxJax so far but I too was a little worried about the safety aspect with 4 inches of concrete. I did my test hole before buying it and went down to 6+ inches and didn't blow through the slab. I also have post-tensioned slab concrete so I had the cables mapped out before I drilled. If you are not sure about whether you have post-tension or rebar please pay the extra money to have it checked...it's a big deal if you drill into a post-tension cable! And, don't always go by the fact that there is no stamp on the concrete...my garage didn't have a stamp nor did it have evidence of the cables on the exterior slab. Anyway, all this gave me the piece of mind to buy it. I also installed the anchors with epoxy. It is very solid and all bolts can be torques to 90 ft. lbs. without any movement but I still put jack stands under the arms when lifted (even though the arms are sitting on the safety lock bar). I have tested for anchor movement after each of the first few jobs and have had none. Can't be too safe with this stuff! It boggles my mind where I've read people get 3 or 4 of 5 anchors per column properly set and say "good enough" and use it. People, please install this stuff properly!!!
07-11-2012, 03:04 PM
#43
Race Director
Most of the time when I have a car on my MJ I also put my Esco jack stands under the arm lift points just for an extra measure of safety since most of the time I'm on the creeper when the car is on the lift. It would be nice to have a full size lift so I could walk under it but then the car roof would be a couple feet inside my bonus room....
You will most definitely want to set it on jack stands if the car will be on the lift overnight (engine drop).
You will most definitely want to set it on jack stands if the car will be on the lift overnight (engine drop).
07-12-2012, 08:58 AM
#44
Racer
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Most of the time when I have a car on my MJ I also put my Esco jack stands under the arm lift points just for an extra measure of safety since most of the time I'm on the creeper when the car is on the lift. It would be nice to have a full size lift so I could walk under it but then the car roof would be a couple feet inside my bonus room....
You will most definitely want to set it on jack stands if the car will be on the lift overnight (engine drop).
You will most definitely want to set it on jack stands if the car will be on the lift overnight (engine drop).
When the MJ is fully raised how does having a 2' jack stand sitting on the floor under the 'arm lift points' help in the event of a column tipping inwards and allowing the car to come off the 'lift points'...??
What am I missing here, besides possibly a brain, hahaha
Jim
07-12-2012, 10:33 AM
#45
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Jim, What you need is something like this:
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...n-Tripod-Stand
It's a little too tall, as it's meant for a full size lift, but it would be easy to cut down to maxjax size.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...n-Tripod-Stand
It's a little too tall, as it's meant for a full size lift, but it would be easy to cut down to maxjax size.