bruce7

Not long at all. I guess that if you did this for a living you would pick up some speed. Once you learn all the gotchas you'd be ok. I think I made most of the mistakes you can make the first time through. Hopefully it will be another 50k miles before I have to revisit it again.

bruce7

Hi Mike,

The cruise control is actually handled by another micro switch. So on the one hand this enables you to defeat the clutch interlock independently from the cruise control. But since both functions depend on the clutch pedal position, you would have thought they would use a single switch. I think they added the clutch interlock switch as an afterthought when US safety regulations required it. By the way, one of the side-effects of my first install with the defective clutch lever was that cruise control stopped working. That was because the pedal was not returning back far enough to engage the switch. In fact I had to remove the wooden floorboard to get enough pedal travel to disengage the clutch. I drove it like that for awhile while I figured out what was wrong.

I wish I did have a lift. I can only safely raise the car up to just get under it and do all the work on my back. This makes for some difficult wrenching positions. In fact I think I tore something in my shoulder when bleeding the clutch reaching up to the bleed nipple. Not my favorite maintenance item.

-bruce

IXLR8

Bruce, are you sure about that?

There is only one "clutch" switch that can be found on the wiring schematic diagram that has the cruise control and starter on it.

If the switch at the clutch pedal isn't the interlock switch or cruise control switch, where would you find the other switch?

bruce7

IXLR8,

In the photo below you can see both switches. The cruise control switch is under the master cylinder plunger. The clutch interlock switch is on the side wall to the left of the master cylinder. The clutch interlock switch didn't appear on 95 models from photos I've seen.

-bruce

IXLR8

Perfectly clear now. I do not have the grey colored switch pictured in your photo and sure enough, my 993 is a 1995.

MarkD

exactly... the need to depress the clutch pedal to start the car began in MY96

and very nice summary/write up!

PITBULL964

Here I have the same problem as you. I got the defective new kinematic lever. Bad luck for me but at least I know what the problem is. I as getting crazy. I never though the lever I bought from Porsche could be defective but it is.... Thanks a loot. You have help me a lot

nine9six

Other than the upgraded bronze bushings, is there a list of parts needed for this rebuild, or do you have to wait till yer in there to examine everything?

Do you always have to replace the kinematic lever?

Please pardon my ignorance, as I have never pulled the pedal box before,,,But I'm sensing there is going to be a first time...

TJ993

A Friend said Just Lube the thing

Well I figure while I am in there, and its been an Issue for awhile I purchased a few bits
Just figure get it done once. I was told it takes a few pairs of hands = so I will do it all at once.

These are my accumulated Parts - see pics - Also bought the spring - no idea why?
Hope these are right?

Lets see what those who have completed this DIY have to say?
TJ

bruce7

In reviewing the DIY and the PET I would say to get these items:

From Illustration 702-00: 5, 9, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 22.

From Illustration 702-08: 1, 2, 3, 4.

Also, grease 000-043-209-03 which replaces 000-043-203-37 or equivalent.

I would plan on refreshing the pedal cluster at each clutch replacement.
The incremental cost is not so great and it will ensure the entire clutch
subsystem is brought to like-new condition.

vincer77

Very timely post as I have to do this soon. All I was going to do is replace the bushings. Do the metal parts all wear?

Also, I looked and did not find bronze bushings available for the 993. Has someone found a source?

bruce7

If you have the time to wait for parts you can tear the pedal cluster down to
inspect what is worn and then just order what you need. Otherwise, I would
assume that any parts that move are worn. The metal parts in the lever
linkage do wear, I think mainly due to misalignment.

nine9six

Thank you for all your timely replies and Bruce for your most inclusive PET pages!

TJ993, I would not go through the trouble of rebuilding my pedal box with the OEM bushings.
EDIT:
TJ993, my apologies for the above reply, and thank you for posting pics of parts and p/n bags! After further thought, I realized how stupid my comment was considering the life span of the OEM bushings @ 20 yrs

Vince n TJ, here is a link for the bronze (oilite) bushing kit from autoatlanta
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-9...-Kit-srch.html

vincer77

Wow, I spent a lot more getting the plastic OE bushings!

tribaltech

Having put this off for 3 years, this thread has convinced me to finally do it, especially because it has gotten worse.

Anyone know if I can buy the master cylinder rubber boot? It doesn't appear on the parts diagram. Mine is cut and I suspect dirt gets in.

Thanks.