Notes from a Pedal Assembly Rebuild
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Not long at all. I guess that if you did this for a living you would pick up some speed. Once you learn all the gotchas you'd be ok. I think I made most of the mistakes you can make the first time through. Hopefully it will be another 50k miles before I have to revisit it again.
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Nice Work! A couple of comments:
1 - Bypassing the clutch switch will disable the cruise control, correct? (not that many of use do that anyways).
4 - i also do not remove the vent tubes if I bleed the clutch - not sure why these would be in the way. Mind you, I bleed on a lift so that might make some difference. I have a system with a jug hung on the cross member, and a long clear plastic tube from the bleed nipple. I then use pressure to bleed the clutch, but slowly since you do not lose much fluid in the reservoir before you will start to push some air.
Cheers,
Mike
1 - Bypassing the clutch switch will disable the cruise control, correct? (not that many of use do that anyways).
4 - i also do not remove the vent tubes if I bleed the clutch - not sure why these would be in the way. Mind you, I bleed on a lift so that might make some difference. I have a system with a jug hung on the cross member, and a long clear plastic tube from the bleed nipple. I then use pressure to bleed the clutch, but slowly since you do not lose much fluid in the reservoir before you will start to push some air.
Cheers,
Mike
The cruise control is actually handled by another micro switch. So on the one hand this enables you to defeat the clutch interlock independently from the cruise control. But since both functions depend on the clutch pedal position, you would have thought they would use a single switch. I think they added the clutch interlock switch as an afterthought when US safety regulations required it. By the way, one of the side-effects of my first install with the defective clutch lever was that cruise control stopped working. That was because the pedal was not returning back far enough to engage the switch. In fact I had to remove the wooden floorboard to get enough pedal travel to disengage the clutch. I drove it like that for awhile while I figured out what was wrong.
I wish I did have a lift. I can only safely raise the car up to just get under it and do all the work on my back. This makes for some difficult wrenching positions. In fact I think I tore something in my shoulder when bleeding the clutch reaching up to the bleed nipple. Not my favorite maintenance item.
-bruce
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M. Schneider (10-31-2023)
#18
Rennlist Member
Bruce, are you sure about that?
There is only one "clutch" switch that can be found on the wiring schematic diagram that has the cruise control and starter on it.
If the switch at the clutch pedal isn't the interlock switch or cruise control switch, where would you find the other switch?
There is only one "clutch" switch that can be found on the wiring schematic diagram that has the cruise control and starter on it.
If the switch at the clutch pedal isn't the interlock switch or cruise control switch, where would you find the other switch?
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
Bruce, are you sure about that?
There is only one "clutch" switch that can be found on the wiring schematic diagram that has the cruise control and starter on it.
If the switch at the clutch pedal isn't the interlock switch or cruise control switch, where would you find the other switch?
There is only one "clutch" switch that can be found on the wiring schematic diagram that has the cruise control and starter on it.
If the switch at the clutch pedal isn't the interlock switch or cruise control switch, where would you find the other switch?
In the photo below you can see both switches. The cruise control switch is under the master cylinder plunger. The clutch interlock switch is on the side wall to the left of the master cylinder. The clutch interlock switch didn't appear on 95 models from photos I've seen.
-bruce
The following users liked this post:
M. Schneider (10-31-2023)
#20
Rennlist Member
IXLR8,
In the photo below you can see both switches. The cruise control switch is under the master cylinder plunger. The clutch interlock switch is on the side wall to the left of the master cylinder. The clutch interlock switch didn't appear on 95 models from photos I've seen.
-bruce
In the photo below you can see both switches. The cruise control switch is under the master cylinder plunger. The clutch interlock switch is on the side wall to the left of the master cylinder. The clutch interlock switch didn't appear on 95 models from photos I've seen.
-bruce
Perfectly clear now. I do not have the grey colored switch pictured in your photo and sure enough, my 993 is a 1995.
#21
Rennlist Member
#22
Track Day
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Murcia - Spain
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Here I have the same problem as you. I got the defective new kinematic lever. Bad luck for me but at least I know what the problem is. I as getting crazy. I never though the lever I bought from Porsche could be defective but it is.... Thanks a loot. You have help me a lot
#23
Other than the upgraded bronze bushings, is there a list of parts needed for this rebuild, or do you have to wait till yer in there to examine everything?
Do you always have to replace the kinematic lever?
Please pardon my ignorance, as I have never pulled the pedal box before,,,But I'm sensing there is going to be a first time...
Do you always have to replace the kinematic lever?
Please pardon my ignorance, as I have never pulled the pedal box before,,,But I'm sensing there is going to be a first time...
#24
Banned
CLUTCH
A Friend said Just Lube the thing
Well I figure while I am in there, and its been an Issue for awhile I purchased a few bits
Just figure get it done once. I was told it takes a few pairs of hands = so I will do it all at once.
These are my accumulated Parts - see pics - Also bought the spring - no idea why?
Hope these are right?
Lets see what those who have completed this DIY have to say?
TJ
Well I figure while I am in there, and its been an Issue for awhile I purchased a few bits
Just figure get it done once. I was told it takes a few pairs of hands = so I will do it all at once.
These are my accumulated Parts - see pics - Also bought the spring - no idea why?
Hope these are right?
Lets see what those who have completed this DIY have to say?
TJ
Other than the upgraded bronze bushings, is there a list of parts needed for this rebuild, or do you have to wait till yer in there to examine everything?
Do you always have to replace the kinematic lever?
Please pardon my ignorance, as I have never pulled the pedal box before,,,But I'm sensing there is going to be a first time...
Do you always have to replace the kinematic lever?
Please pardon my ignorance, as I have never pulled the pedal box before,,,But I'm sensing there is going to be a first time...
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
Parts List
Other than the upgraded bronze bushings, is there a list of parts needed for this rebuild, or do you have to wait till yer in there to examine everything?
Do you always have to replace the kinematic lever?
Please pardon my ignorance, as I have never pulled the pedal box before,,,But I'm sensing there is going to be a first time...
Do you always have to replace the kinematic lever?
Please pardon my ignorance, as I have never pulled the pedal box before,,,But I'm sensing there is going to be a first time...
From Illustration 702-00: 5, 9, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 22.
From Illustration 702-08: 1, 2, 3, 4.
Also, grease 000-043-209-03 which replaces 000-043-203-37 or equivalent.
I would plan on refreshing the pedal cluster at each clutch replacement.
The incremental cost is not so great and it will ensure the entire clutch
subsystem is brought to like-new condition.
#26
Rennlist Member
Very timely post as I have to do this soon. All I was going to do is replace the bushings. Do the metal parts all wear?
Also, I looked and did not find bronze bushings available for the 993. Has someone found a source?
Also, I looked and did not find bronze bushings available for the 993. Has someone found a source?
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
inspect what is worn and then just order what you need. Otherwise, I would
assume that any parts that move are worn. The metal parts in the lever
linkage do wear, I think mainly due to misalignment.
#28
Thank you for all your timely replies and Bruce for your most inclusive PET pages!
TJ993, I would not go through the trouble of rebuilding my pedal box with the OEM bushings.
EDIT:
TJ993, my apologies for the above reply, and thank you for posting pics of parts and p/n bags! After further thought, I realized how stupid my comment was considering the life span of the OEM bushings @ 20 yrs
Vince n TJ, here is a link for the bronze (oilite) bushing kit from autoatlanta
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-9...-Kit-srch.html
TJ993, I would not go through the trouble of rebuilding my pedal box with the OEM bushings.
EDIT:
TJ993, my apologies for the above reply, and thank you for posting pics of parts and p/n bags! After further thought, I realized how stupid my comment was considering the life span of the OEM bushings @ 20 yrs
Vince n TJ, here is a link for the bronze (oilite) bushing kit from autoatlanta
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-9...-Kit-srch.html
Last edited by nine9six; 04-28-2015 at 10:35 PM.
#30
Instructor
Having put this off for 3 years, this thread has convinced me to finally do it, especially because it has gotten worse.
Anyone know if I can buy the master cylinder rubber boot? It doesn't appear on the parts diagram. Mine is cut and I suspect dirt gets in.
Thanks.
Anyone know if I can buy the master cylinder rubber boot? It doesn't appear on the parts diagram. Mine is cut and I suspect dirt gets in.
Thanks.