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Need help finding good motor rebuild shop.Please!

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Old 02-28-2012, 09:08 PM
  #16  
Stealth 993
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Not to take anything away from Steve, but there are some other shops in the PNW, that are not super expensive. I will say these projects can get away from you. There is a ton of things "to do" while your in there. Of course you got to get the head work all done. Hopefully you don't need a crank, or rods. Hell why not do a 3.8 kit?

Sure, places like Chris German can do it, but they will most likely charge more then Steve. Give Redmond European a call, the owner is a long time Porsche owner (has like 5 older 911') & rebuilds engines all the time for track guys. He also was a head tech for a 908 at Rennsport. Even Bill Gates has taken his 959 to him.

Same for John Walker in Seattle.

They are far cheaper then most Washington shops.
Old 02-28-2012, 09:55 PM
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Thanks Steath. A+ reply. I will definatly check those guys out. And yes, Chris is spendy. I'm sure great at what he does, too much for me though.
Old 02-29-2012, 03:22 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Redblurr
...Guess I'll just but a new car...
I'm in Seattle and would be interested if you decide to sell your car as-is.

And yah this area is not lacking for quality indy p-car wrenches. None of them have "Budget Porsche Engine Rebuild" as a box you can check I'm afraid.
Old 02-29-2012, 09:44 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by vjd3
One of the more cost-effective places that comes recommended is Mark Nadler at Exotech in Plaistow, NH. Couldn't be further away from you, unfortunately. But he did my top end for about $3500 and it's been flawless for six years and 30k miles. He's done other Rennlister's cars as well -- FastFreddy and a few others, I think. He's a small operation, and a racer, too, so you'd have to be patient. But he's constantly tearing down and building race motors for the local PCA crowd around there and he knows his stuff.

Might be worth a call.
+1. A very good friend of mine drove his 993 to Mark's shop (from MD) for a top end rebuild & clutch install. A few weeks later he flew to NH and drove the car home. He was extremely impressed with Mark, the shop, and the work that was performed on his 993.

Unfortunately, he totaled the car two weeks later on the way to my house...


Andreas
Old 02-29-2012, 10:18 AM
  #20  
race911
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Anyone really comprehend what Steve said? If the oil is contaminated, this is way beyond whatever happened inside the engine. And that takes time. And expertise. Anyone here work for $12/hr?

Probably the best course of action will be a teardown for inspection, and if anything internal is seriously messed up, source a used engine. (Let's skip the discussion for now about not knowing what you're getting in buying used.) If there's an internal failure, proceed with the oiling system cleanup.

Will this still be into 5 figures? Likely. But that's why I keep a few 3.6L engines around........

Ultimately, might be worth considering selling as-is, and then buying a replacement. So I'll join the pack of vultures who is interested in the car if you decide to go that route.
Old 02-29-2012, 10:29 AM
  #21  
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Worth looking into this for sale. You do have to be a paying member to see this ad though. I believe varioram can be removed from this engine to fit your95.

https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...nsmission.html

"I am modifying my 1998 993 for PCA events and will be installing a special build engine and Motorsports transmission for the purpose. As a result, I have for sale the original 1998 powertrain currently installed in the car (100k miles). This is the last production year for the air cooled engines. I purchased the car one year ago, and have available the PPI done prior to the sale. The PPI was performed by Kelly Moss Motorsports in Madison, Wisconsin. Leakdowns on the motor were in the 6-8% range. The only major issue found was that the plug wires were in need of replacement. That work was performed at that time ($1100).

The engine is reliable and runs strong. Current oil consumption is approximately 1500 miles per quart. The car participated in (2) autocrosses last year and has never seen any track time. I have full records on the powertrain from approximately 50k miles forward. Records prior to that time should be available from Porsche since the car would have been on warranty prior to 50k miles.

The transmission is a stock G50/20 and is in good condition. No leaks or other issues. All synchros work well. Recent lube service.

The power train includes a lightweight flywheel and RS clutch assembly installed 15k miles ago.

The powertrain is currently installed in the car and can be driven before purchasing. The package includes the engine, fuel injection system, transmission, and clutch/flywheel. Not included are the exhaust system, heater piping or the EMU. $11,000 plus shipping. I will consider splitting the engine and transmission. "
Old 02-29-2012, 12:01 PM
  #22  
JimPA
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^^^ Doesn't say whether this engine has had a top end rebuild. At some point, that's a possible cost to consider. Don't discount the "while you're in there" items. Although my 80K mile engine had no obvious damage or performance issues, the top end rebuild included new cams due to scuffed lobes. I also decided to replace the original clutch to avoid the labor cost of pulling the engine again.
Old 02-29-2012, 12:13 PM
  #23  
chsu74
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Originally Posted by JimPA
^^^ Doesn't say whether this engine has had a top end rebuild. At some point, that's a possible cost to consider. Don't discount the "while you're in there" items. Although my 80K mile engine had no obvious damage or performance issues, the top end rebuild included new cams due to scuffed lobes. I also decided to replace the original clutch to avoid the labor cost of pulling the engine again.
I agree. The OP is looking at 2 options:

1. Keeping the car so sell the tranny for $3K and use that money to update necessary parts and labor. The engine will be already out so labor will not be that high to replace parts.

2. Do a motor swap and sell the car with the new "used motor" as is. Sell the tranny to recoup some cost.

Both options should be less than $20K but option 1 should be near the quality of a rebuild.
Old 02-29-2012, 07:45 PM
  #24  
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Thank you to everyone who has given me there 10 cents. I really appreciate your time to view my post. I am never really gonna sell my car. My statement was out of frustration. I now know what I need to do. Save, save, save$$$. Get it done right and be done with it. Also would like to thank some of you with the smart a$$ replies. It was what I needed to hear. I understand that now. So thanks. Will keep you posted when I do the rebuild.



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