TravisB

Yes to all of the above..everything is back on except the mufflers/tips, and the heater blower stuff. Well, I don't have the air box on yet either just for ease of access around the engine, but being non-Varioram there isn't a sensor or anything in it.

I put new plugs in before it went back in the car, and I've been swapping back and fourth between old and new plugs while I've been monkeying around with things, just to eliminate another fluke possibility of bad plugs.

Injectors were removed and I had them rebuilt.

Removed and re-seated all the connections in that area, one of the main ones was suspect but after making sure it was fully seated, no change.

I'll have to try and take a video of me attempting to start it..something is going on *sometimes*, something is getting burnt (fumes set off the CO alarms in my apartment last night actually!). But it doesn't seem like it's "trying" to run, when it does this it barely spins faster than the starter does on its own, and I'm not getting any backfiring or anything, just some pops out of the exhaust. I will verify 100% today that the timing is nuts on I guess just so that one can be put to rest.


I measured .80mm clearance on the new flywheel. I started to remove it when I was splitting the engine and transmission but saw it could be left in place, beyond that I didn't touch it.

Ahh..almost forgot. Yeah that last inch I was stuck on when putting the transmission back on was the floor jack I was using to adjust the trim of the transmission..the tables were hitting it as I was trying to slide them together. Definite d'oh moment after I was wrestling with it a while..you can see in the video but it's pretty subtle.

IXLR8

With 12 teeth on the distributor drive gear, close could mean +/- 30 degrees...you can't get closer than that other than being spot on.

That would place the rotor half-way between one plug wire output on the distributor cap and the next.

techman1

Sorry, I did not read every post, but I seem to have noticed something.

New flywheel and you did not check the gap for the flywheel sensor? What if the dimension of the new flywheel was a little off from the original?

JPP

Man ... the suspense is killing me .....

TravisB

Spec'd clearance is 1.0mm +/- .2mm and I measured in at .80mm.

You and me both, brother!!

techman1

Gap sounds good. Wiring to sensor? I recall someone having an issue with the connector or wire deteriorating. Certainly sounds like a spark timing issue!

TravisB

Just so we can rule out the distributor..hard to tell but that pic is from the exhaust side of #1, intake showing the lobe, and the exhaust rocker is on the base circle.

Mike J

Ok looks good. And given the distributor has not been removed, we can assume the timing is correct to the right TDC.

Do you have a timing light? If you do, you can check that the spark is correct and steady, and at the right time. If its the flywheel sensor for instance, its possible the spark would not be periodic.

cheers,

Mike

TravisB

Just checked spark again...might have a clue. I don't seem to get any spark with the DME removed. With the DME back in place, I get spark, but it seems to start strong and after 2-3 sparks they seem to get weaker. For this, I didn't have the car jumped, but it had been charging quite a while last night.

Here's a video with everything hooked up, DME in, turning over. The chug-chug-chug seems to get strongest with about 1/3 throttle input now. I am jumping it in the video.

EckFe1

Travis,
You must have had the connector to the dist. cable off. Did you hurt the tiny cables that go from the hall effect magnet of the distributor through the rubber boot to the outside cable?
When I rebuilt my distributor, I remember those wires are like telephone wire thin. Pull the cap off and look under the cover. Maybe you see something there.
Keep going, you'll find it at some point. You've come so far and did an awesome job. You'll be smiling soon.
Ed

Vorsicht

OK, continuing on....

Definitely check the connections in the left rear behind the blower. I once reversed 2 of these connectors and discovered that the car would not start. Also, check to make sure all the little vacuum tubes are attached around the throttle assembly.

A long shot but I'll throw it in. You said your battery was getting low earlier. If the juice is low it might turn over but not spin fast enough to start. This is possible. Re-charge the battery.

Another long shot. Disconnect the MAF (unscrew, pull off) and try to start the car. Without the MAF the DME utilizes an alternate starting strategy. If this works it could lead us in a new direction.

Just popping off ideas. There are only three things required for ignition - Fuel, Spark and the right fuel/air mixture.

Keep at it!

TravisB

I've done most of the starting trials with the car jumped, I don't think it's low voltage (just measured 12.28V at the battery).

Only wires disconnected now are the AC compressor and the heater blower related stuff. The vacuum line for that is plugged.

No change with the MAF disconnected.

There is a definite point where the chugging/puffing is the strongest, and that's with about 1/3 throttle..

Vorsicht

One more thought..

Have you tried reading the fault code via the key on (dash lights all on) and holding down the gas pedal for 5 seconds and releasing, then watching and counting the check engine light flashes. No codes stored will give you: one flash, pause, then five quick flashes. Any other combination will give you the last stored code. Try it.

Mike J

Yeah, I agree, great job so far! You'll get it, I just hope you do not hurt your forehead too much when you get there.

Interesting sound, it almost catches, but not quite.

You said the plugs were wet, did you check the fuel pressure and hear the fuel pump? The injectors need pressure to operate properly, otherwise they can just drip. You can check that there is pressure by slightly undoing the fuel rail connector - if pressurized it will squirt fuel!

Did you try the liquid starter fluid on the intake again, does that cause a burp?

Ok, will go a bit wilder. Can you disconnect #1 plug wire on the topside, put a spare plug on it, and swing the cable around so its close to the crank pulley? If someone cranks the car over when you do this, you should see the spark happen when you see the TDC indicator pass by. A last double check.

I cannot tell if you are at the proper TDC point from the picture, but if you did not remove anything, it should work fine.

Are your plugs still getting wet?

It almost sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak, and since your removed your manifold - you double check the vacuum lines at the back of the engine, the ones that attach to the vaccum brake line running to the front of the car? Ok, if you crank the engine over and put your hand over the intake in the air box, can you feel the engine sucking air?

Damn, tough one and not obvious. Its also a hard diagnosis to do remotely....almost tempted to drive down to Seattle to help out..

Cheers

Mike

TravisB

Nope, no codes..



Plugs are damp still, but not wet. They're starting to turn a bit black at the tips, so they are burning SOMETHING...but when I cracked the fitting loose on the driver's side fuel rail, it was bone dry (I heard gurgling when it came loose). I couldn't get the fitting loose on the passenger side, but I loosened it at the fuel filter and it came spilling out all over the place. I tried both DME's, and checked the fuel pump fuse again. I pulled the passenger side fuel rail loose and set a couple of the injectors in plastic bags with paper towels in them and turned the engine over, and there was gas on the towels.

GC96 is planning to drop by this evening, so I'll have a second hand for a bit. Charlie has issues with turning the key for me, lacking thumbs and all..and of course anyone else is welcome to join the party!

A friend of mine once said to me, "You don't really have normal problems do you?" And I am starting to agree, haha..