Mike J

Don't forget if you look at the flywheel there are two sets of "teeth", one for the starter, and one for the sensor. The starter ring gear should not have missing teeth, and they are pointed, and are the set away from the engine. The set closer to the engine are square topped and should have a gap.

The coil wires are hard to reverse since they have different post sizes and the appropriate connectors to match.

Cheers,

Mike

TravisB

Yep, I verified that the sensor teeth do have a gap. Also found I won't get spark with that sensor unplugged..so I'd have to guess it is working.

Right, couldn't have crossed the coil wires due to large/small posts.

Also got a timing light on it tonight (thanks to MDamen!), and the spark is right on TDC, with 3 degrees advance. The notch on the crank pulley looked like it had some red paint on it, if that means anything to you..

Mike J

Hey Travis,

Did you go through all the cylinders like I suggested?

Cheers,

Mike

TravisB

Well, that was an interesting ride this past week! Anyway, back on topic...




And without further ado...

firesm

Happy for you, that you got it working again!

porscheralph

The thumbs up at the end is priceless!

Mike J

Yeah, awesome work, and Travis showed lots of "Rennlist" character when it counted! He gets the gold start for DIY'er of the month! (or year).

Cheers,

Mike

JDHertz11

1:32... I thought you were going to Tebow it for the Rennlist posse...

TravisB

Some bad news...phone/camera crashed last night towards the end of the night. Today it is dead as a doornail. On the SD card I should have through getting the bumper hung at least. Too close to being done to figure something else out unfortunately, exhaust tips and wheel liners are all I've got left.



Hahaha, I like the way you think! I was saving that until the very end. Ugh.

TravisB

Alright, let's get this wrapped up!

First and foremost, I need to thank everyone here for following and especially your support! I cannot say enough good things about the community here, it's one of (if not THE) best I've ever been a part of. Special thanks to GC96 and Mike D for stopping by and lending me a hand or two; Alex and the dynamic duo at FDM for the phone support, and last but not least, Mike J for not only the phone support but being mere hours from coming down from Canadia when we thought the timing was the cause of my problem. I think the lesson of all this is that you're never too good to make rookie mistakes!

Sadly my phone/camera crashed on me and I lost the last bit after getting the bumper hung. I knew it was going to be completed going by the fact it started dumping snow when I was finishing up. Using the number of slides I have from the time lapse stuff (just over 12,400), I've got about 100 hours in to this over about 20 working days (excluding the time spent diagnosing and fixing the no-start condition, which I would estimate at roughly another 25-30 hours over the final week). I am too scared to add up my receipts, but I am confident I doubled-maybe-tripled my initial estimate when I bought the car. Definitely $10'd and $20's to death; poor-sha indeedy deed!

So here are my impressions now that it's basically done (well, that end of the car at least):

- The ignition stuff didn't look too bad when I took it out, but it does run better and smoother. Or, alternatively, this could just be a placebo effect from sporting a clapped out Taurus for three weeks.

- New gaskets are nice; no more burning oil smell in the cabin to taint that new clutch smell!

- I removed and did not replace the engine insulation mat. I do feel like I get some more higher frequency noise inside, but nothing unbearable. I do like the little bit of extra room it gives under the hood, and with a white car it REALLY brightens things up in there.

- The first couple of days I was getting a CEL sporadically. Took it to a parts store to run the codes, but the scanner wouldn't read it. After the 3rd day of use or so I haven't seen it come back. Thinking maybe it was just the remaining bits of paper towel burning off and messing with the O2 sensor, haha.

- Speaking of the clutch; other than the fact that I'd like a heavier pedal, I like it. Easy to modulate, very linear. I was afraid it would be more of an on-off switch.

- I do get the 'rattle' in neutral at idle. I am running Redline 75-90 gear oil. You'd never notice it without the radio completely off. What is way more apparent is the noise at low engine speeds (<2500 RPM) while accelerating, not sure how to describe it but it sounds exactly like my dad's old '95 F-150 with the 4.9l six and five speed when lugging the engine.

- Speaking of idling; the dreaded dying. Runs great cold/cool, but once it's hot the dying gets really annoying (not to mention embarassing; "Yes, I do actually know how to drive a stick!"). It seems to get worse the hotter it gets; putzing around in the city, it has died several times just between gears if I'm shifting "casually." I am going to go through the ISV again and if that doesn't do it, I'll try bumping the idle up 100 RPM or so. mongrelcat has generously offered to let me try out his Steve Wong chip, so that will be up next, though I do have reason to believe it already has a Rennsport chip if it wasn't replaced when they replaced the DME a number of years ago (I get conflicting information from the PO and the shop that did the work, I'll just have to crack it open and see what's inside).

- All that said, if I can get the dying issue sorted, I am 100% happy with the LWF and would do it again if I had to start over. If I wanted quieter, refined and more isolated I would have gotten a 996.

JPP

So .. I was just reading CupCar's post about removing the clutch helper spring 'like the cupcar's did' maybe that's an option for you .. here's the quote:
One thing I did was rebuild my pedal assembly.

I fabricated an adjustable brake pedal using a Tilton pedal pad. The pedal pad is adjustable and I stiffened the pedal's mounting up a bit. Yes, the original pad is offset on the stem as well.

I eliminated the clutch helper spring assembly as was done in the Cup cars. This is supposed to make clutch re-engagement quicker since the clutch spring does not have to re-**** the helper spring on release. It does make the pedal harder to press though.




So, why does it 'rattle' now? Is that a 'known' RS flywheel by-product? I don't think I've ever heard/read about it ....

TravisB

That's a good idea, I was wondering how the spring would affect things. I guess I could back the spring preload screw out all the way first and see what that does for me.



I read about it in a few LWF threads. I think it's just a byproduct of losing 20-something pounds of mass in that area and the less-dampened frequencies from the engine traveling down the line..

JPP

Seems like a good way to 'test' the effects of if before committing... Compared to any other earlier 911's I've owned/driven, the 993 has always felt 'light' to me ....

Hm .. I'm gonna ask Darin if his does this ...

FisterD

Very common with the LWF upgrade. Usually the most noticable when the car is very warm, and only in nuetral with the clutch pedal out. Some cars are more noticable than others, but totally normal.
I kind of like it, actually.
The LWF is one of my favorite upgrades on a 993. I would do it every 6-speed 993 I ever own.

JPP

Well, all I know is, when I rode in your car, I thought you and Mark had done some hp upgrades to it .. but now that I think about it, with the Stage III's on there, probably can't hear much 'gear noise' even at idle anyways ..