Mr.Woolery

I'm also interested in a set of female connectors, so if anyone has part numbers or can source multiple sets, count me in on the order and I'll reimburse.

flyingchappy

I acquired a used clockspring from ebay when I installed my Momo Prototipo and harvested the two connectors.

996.652.211.00 or 993.652.211.00

gt3'er

^^ I'm resigned to doing the same. Quite a premium to pay for a couple pieces of plastic.

flyingchappy

I bought a "broken" one at much less than the ones lately posted.

gt3'er

^^I did the same - $30. In the big scheme of things, its nothing and i"m happy to be moving on with the wheel install, and having it fully reversible.

Cheers

Mr.Woolery

Yeah, I decided to go the eBay clockspring route for the connectors, too. At least we're doing it right, LOL

bukowski

I just finished my install and while removing the original steering wheel I managed to break one of the mounting tabs on the stock clock spring. If anyone needs a donor to cut up for a Cup steering wheel install I will let it go for $40 shipped!

quacktoduck

FYI 996 and 986 boxster clock springs are the same as ours.

pp000830

Very nice write-up on all the issues to do the most factory like least invasive solution.

Rick-A-Shay

FYI: I recently met a fellow doing a "black box" setup for GPS controlled exhaust sound reduction to use at Laguna Seca. He wanted to measure voltage at the solenoid on my RS. He used a home made (extension) jumper to plug into the harness connector for easy voltage measurement. I asked him where he got the harness connector plug for his jumper. More or less "off the shelf" of the electronics world. This leads me to believe that Porsche harness connectors may NOT always be "design specific". Just say'n... :roll eyes:

Additionally, in a previous post, I commented on a horn that sometimes will not work. Relay and airbag mount replaced. I assume that bag and horn circuit function thru rotation of clock spring? Could one work and not the other??? Thx!

Mr.Woolery

Thank you for this writeup, I just completed the upgrade a few minutes ago. Lessons learned, stupid mistakes, and random notes from my experience:




Disassembly:
-Suggestion: before you remove the 24mm nut which holds the original steering wheel, make sure to center the straighten the wheel and mark top dead center on the column shaft with a marking pen. This will help ensure that the new steering wheel is put on straight during the reassembly process.
-I didn't realize, at first, that the column shroud has screws on either side of it holding the top and bottom halves together.
-You don't have to remove the column shroud to access the 8mm bolt that holds the switch assembly to the column. There is a hole in the bottom of the shroud that allows access to loosen the bolt.


Reassembly:
-The original clockspring mechanism (the donut looking thing with the wires) that is removed isn't reinstalled. It becomes spare parts to be set aside with the 4-spoke wheel & airbag, in case you want to revert to stock. I know to most that this should seem obvious, but I did have a few moments of doubt during reassembly because of initial "adjustment" issues (I saw an ~1" gap between the horn and hub contact surfaces)
-The shroud/switch assembly can be completely reassembled, then the steering wheel installed, before adjusting the shroud/switch assembly. The assembly slides up and down the column, which is how you can adjust to ensure the steering wheel hub & horn switch contact surface sufficiently meet....this is why that 8mm bolt is there, to allow for this sliding adjustment (~1" of front to back movement!). I had no idea this kind of adjustability was designed into it. Pretty cool.

quacktoduck

FYI the connectors are unique in the sense that if you look at how they differ from each other you cannot install the horn connector to the abs and vice versa.

so they are unique connectors not off the shelf..

Foxman

A HUGE thanks to Tosi for this great install thread! I purchased a cup steering wheel from Gert at Carnewal. Gert has a really great kit specifically designed for our 993's. Gert was kind enough to email some installation instructions, but this install thread really made it all clear. So clear, in fact, that I opted to do the install at my local wrench's shop so he could help with the wiring and make sure I didn't screw up. A big thanks to Bill P. at Eurotech.

I'm posting a few pics of the install below, but there isn't much I can add to this great thread. I highly recommend the kit from Carnewal, and a careful read through this thread. All the kit from Carnewal lacks is the connector for pin 71. You also need to harvest wire connectors from a clock spring - your clock spring or someone else's. If you're planning this install, I would also suggest purchasing the 964 steering column covers for better fit and finish. Part nos. 96455227301 and 96455227503. I'm still waiting for those parts, so I will have to reinstall the wheel again.

The feel of the steering wheel is incredible, and the extension and smaller circumference is also a big bonus for us tall guys. If you're running with harnesses and don't need and airbag, I would highly recommend this mod.






Note pin 71 is not populated



Resistor to fool airbag diagnostic



Pin 71 is now populated.





It takes a little force to snap the ground into pin 71



Wheel installed (And a sneak preview of the Tillet seats!)

woohoosocal

Help!

I can’t get this Momo 7004 hub I purchased from Pelican to line up with the L-shaped horn contact so that the horn will work. I got the intermittent horn honk when turning the wheel so I know I have power.

What hub will work??? Where can I get one???

Thanks in advance and Happy Thanksgiving.

ilko

The 7004 hub is the correct part. Is it greased by any chance? Maybe that's what preventing it from making contact on a constant basis. Clean it up w alcohol and try again.