Quick question (help) for those with RS hub pulley..
#1
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After just installing bthe rs pulley im noticing a whistling sound like theres a blower supercharger in the back there. not as loung but you hear it a little. Did anyone else notice this? Belt seems a little tighter than before but just a little. I used original halfs and belt.
#2
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I use to have the RS pulley - that made a squeeking noise. The noise was pretty annyoing. That's my gripe about the RS pulley. Also - no noticeable difference in performance at all.
#3
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I DIY the RS hub pulley conversion with Rothsport hub and pulley halves (no affiliation). It fits perfectly, no issue with noise.
I wonder could the noise come from the fan belt sensor bearing? May try to get the right belt tension (taking some shims off) and lube the bearing and go from there. Good luck~
I wonder could the noise come from the fan belt sensor bearing? May try to get the right belt tension (taking some shims off) and lube the bearing and go from there. Good luck~
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No extra noise from mine. Only downside I see is lots of idling could drain your battery if you have lights and extras on because the RS pulley does not rotate the alternator at enough speed at idle to produce enough current.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
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#8
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I have the whistling sound, love it. I can only hear it at lower rpm's, say 2k to almost 4k.
I assumed the whistling was the threaded shafts sticking out, spinning around.
definitely not a squeaking sound, as that would be the belt sensor or loose belt.
I assumed the whistling was the threaded shafts sticking out, spinning around.
definitely not a squeaking sound, as that would be the belt sensor or loose belt.
#9
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I have the RS pulley and a very mild whistle too. It was reduced quite a bit when I removed the sensor wheel, but is still there even after that.
Might pull the sensor wheel. I deleted it and shorted the wires so no light on the dash.
Might pull the sensor wheel. I deleted it and shorted the wires so no light on the dash.
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No whistling with my Rothsport hub. But certainly you should be aware of possible battery drainage when idling in traffic. You can adjust the idle revs on the ISV to eliminate this problem.
#12
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Hey Wayne
i will check it out tommorrow when i get the inspection done for LCMT, but i found what the problem was...its the 3 bolts that stick out that create that whisting sound...not so sure if i like it or not . I will wait and see. Thanks for the info guys.
Allot of people have mentioned no issues with battery or lights..i will wait and see..i also dont do allot of traffic since not my daily driver.
i will check it out tommorrow when i get the inspection done for LCMT, but i found what the problem was...its the 3 bolts that stick out that create that whisting sound...not so sure if i like it or not . I will wait and see. Thanks for the info guys.
Allot of people have mentioned no issues with battery or lights..i will wait and see..i also dont do allot of traffic since not my daily driver.
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You can adjust the isv by removing the expoxy on the three screws holding it together, and then twisting one part relative to another. It takes a bit of fiddling but works.
I have this adjustment on my car, its like having the A/C on, the idle is a bit higher. However, if you push it too far, you will get delayed return to idle and some minor effects. I still find that with lights, rear-defog, fans, seat warmers, fog lights all on, the draw is net negative at the faster idle.
I have this adjustment on my car, its like having the A/C on, the idle is a bit higher. However, if you push it too far, you will get delayed return to idle and some minor effects. I still find that with lights, rear-defog, fans, seat warmers, fog lights all on, the draw is net negative at the faster idle.
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How do you remove the epoxy? I think I tried this long ago and was worried about stripping those three screws. My idle had been low and lumpy since I did the RS clutch and LWF install 40k miles ago.