axl911

The alarm is logic programmable. So it doesn't go off until any of the exceeded parameter(s) are off. (Help me check my logic here.) I set it to watch over AFR under full/heavy throttle. Basically the system looks for AFR going over 12.3 when the throttle is >60% and the RPM is >3000. I also have it programmed to monitor and alarm if my air intake after the intercooler is > 140F.

When the alarm trips, it lights up a LED I have mounted on my steering column which i can still see while driving.

An alarm is no good if it goes on all the time.

MPB993

Here's a picture before I moved the a/w injection ahead of the SC. As you can see it was getting on a bit when I took the picture and needed a clean :-) . Also the filter orientation is different so that I reduced intake side pressure drop at high power levels. Also included an earlier picture of pre-cold intake with the 2 stage a/w post SC. As you can see its a few years older but its been so much fun :-)

haygeebaby

That setup would save a heap of weight without the chargecooler.
Did you find 2 stage A/W injection more effective, rather than single stage injection?
I think that cold airbox is a good idea - I'll see if I can figure out how to make a box like that in the tight spaces.

Anthony - that equation looks complicated but logical. I'll investigate guages a little more when I get the car back on the road. Guages and meth kit will be in the second phase of this project.

haygeebaby

Today I installed the water tank and water pump, and also wired the pump up to the long gone belt sensor plug. Filled it with de-mineralised water and coolant. Got all the air out of the system and also no leaks.
Cut the front wheel well lining for the water pipes.
6mm wheel spacers are on and all the wheels are back on as well.

Started cutting the back side of the spoiler but the Dremel ran out of power - it's charging now.

I cranked the car - it starts - but doesn't idle. Dies after a second or two. If I put the gas on it will stay running. Did you guys have this problem?

I think the pulley wheel is causing some friction - might have to grind some of the engine fan housing to ensure it spins freely.

Also might have to adjust the ISV to hold revs a little higher. Did you guys have to do this as well?

Dam - this means I have to take the chargecooler apart - it was a bitch to get in as well !!!

haygeebaby

She started - finally. A few more attempts - gave more and more gas - and finally - she stayed running. Exhaust note sounded great. I haven't heard the exhaust for 3 weeks but I swear it sounded different.

The only bad thing is I can't drive it yet. I still need to cut the spoiler.

haygeebaby

Not much progress today. Tailoring the stock spoiler to fit. I didn't realize how much I have to cut.

axl911

Check for vacuum leaks. Most common problem in this type of install. Adjusting the ISV should be the very last ditch effort.

haygeebaby

What's the best way to search for vacuum leaks ?

axl911

Vacuum leaks are the hardest things to find. I find that if you can put cover all the holes in the intake, put in 5psi of air, then spray soapy water around joints, clamps, hoses, etc, you can look for bubbles.

Places I found are:
- rubber joint sleeve where the TPC manifold attaches to the 6 plastic intakes of the car. Make sure these are tight.

- on the TPC manifold there are 2 screws that attach the manifold down to the engine, one on each side, these screws go into the manifold and can leak

- the various vacuum lines, old plastic/rubber can harden and leak

- silicone hoses to and from the intercooler

- various hoses connection from the intake filter all the way to the intake of the supercharger

clib

very interesting thread. I had mine installed this winter and love it. my shop did it, I'm envious of your skills/efforts. We used the 7/8th injectors and TPC/unichip setup, finally got the unichip tuning software and cable and were able to tune it well and after getting the dyno straightened around the final dyno was about 360 at rear wheels, pre was around 240 with TPC/Intercooler and sportcats. Drivability is great. I have the AFR/EGT/Vacuum gauges after getting suggestions on my build from Axl as well.
I have a question on EGT for Axl - what temps are you seeing after some harder driving? mine is installed before the sport cats. I have a range after observing for awhile but no real comparison.

axl911

At max boost, I only see about 1350F.

Where do you get the cable and stuff to tune the unichip?

clib

thanks. And is yours also before the cats for temp?

For the tuning kit, you have to buy it from unichip. They sell a "tuning kit" - which amounts to a cable and software and permission to use it. They have a couple of options including tuning via phone help based on driving and testing parameters I believe, and even 'renting' the stuff to do that and return to them. They also offer advice and trouble shooting and seem quite knowledgeable. You can search on their site.

axl911

Yes...right before the cat.

is your mechanic a TPC affiliate? Or can anyone buy the cable + software and access the unichip mapping?

haygeebaby

Speaking of Unichip - I have one that came with the TPC kit that I have not used. If you want it, PM me and make me an offer. The item is located in Australia.

haygeebaby

So today was the first day of shake down testing after we have installed the kit. I have not floored it yet and I'm taking it easy and ensuring everything is secure and working correctly. The good thing is the car does not stall anymore. The ECU must be learning and adjusting items to suit the new configuration.

This is what I have noticed so far. On slight acceleration you can feel a marked improvement in acceleration. A lot more infact. I'm driving at the normal speeds that I normally drive - which is rather slow and granny like. But I've noticed that I am using less thottle to achieve normal driving speeds.

There where two times I put the throttle half way down - the SC whine gets louder and the car accelerated very progressively. The surge of power is very linear and it just goes on. I haven't taken it to the red line yet or booted it. Max revs probably around 5k.

There is a lot more power in the lower rev range - say from idle to 4k. Feels like the car is pulling harder in that range now than it did when it was stock and gunning it from 4k revs to redline.

The push of acceleration is very smooth as well. As your push down on the accelerator the thrust just builds greater and greater - very addictive. Off the line the car takes off much better.

Three things I've noticed so far that sort of worry me:

1. It's hot under the engine bay. After a good drive I pulled over to look things over. The coolant in the chargecooler tank was body temperature. The metal pipes, chargecooler housing, and top of the SC was warm to the touch. Probably more than warm - almost too hot to touch.

2. When I got home I noticed that the engine fan was not spinning. Its jammed - I can't even move it. One thing bad about the install of the fan pulley and the fan is that there is no connection between the two - nothing links them. If you don't have the belt on you can spin the fan pulley and hold the fan down. I need to look into this as I think this added to the extra heat in the engine bay. Did any of you guys have this? Did you ever look into a solution to connect the fan to the pulley?

3. I notice the exhuast burbles a lot more. If I start to slow down in second and let go off on the accelerator slightly the exhuast burbles and pops a lot. What's causing this? Do you guys get this as well? I have Fabpseed de-cat on my car.