OT: Detailing Advice
06-29-2011, 11:56 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
(Oops, almost forgot, no affilition!)
06-30-2011, 12:44 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Where to start. How much money are you willing to spend on this? Regardless, you should
1- wash the car with dawn liquid soap to strip any old stuff.
2- next clay bar the entire car thoroughly. This is a very necessary step.
3 - wash again with good car soap. I use Zaino, but Meguiars is ok.
4- use a fairly aggressive compound or polish to get out all those scratches and swirls. I like 3M or Einszett. I would go to a forum sponsor detail company and purchase better pads than what is in your pic ( no offense intended). Orange is probably the right answer. Keep repeating this step until you are happy with the finish.
5- finish with a wax or sealant, depending on what matters most to you... Depth and wet vs. Shiny and clinical, longevity, etc. Waxes are deeper and wetter looking but don't last as long and not as protective. The synthetics will be harder, last longer, protect better, but look more shiny and antiseptic if that makes sense.
1- wash the car with dawn liquid soap to strip any old stuff.
2- next clay bar the entire car thoroughly. This is a very necessary step.
3 - wash again with good car soap. I use Zaino, but Meguiars is ok.
4- use a fairly aggressive compound or polish to get out all those scratches and swirls. I like 3M or Einszett. I would go to a forum sponsor detail company and purchase better pads than what is in your pic ( no offense intended). Orange is probably the right answer. Keep repeating this step until you are happy with the finish.
5- finish with a wax or sealant, depending on what matters most to you... Depth and wet vs. Shiny and clinical, longevity, etc. Waxes are deeper and wetter looking but don't last as long and not as protective. The synthetics will be harder, last longer, protect better, but look more shiny and antiseptic if that makes sense.
check your work using a halogen shop lamp, that light does not hide issues, so be prepared to work at it longer than you expect.
it'll be worth it.
Craig
06-30-2011, 02:18 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Dan, it would be nice if you can take a pic of the paint in the sun to show the marring.
I really don't care for most of megs products. IMHO, the pads suck. The speed glaze is a harsh polish, & made for rotary only. The "polish" you have is more of a glaze/filler then polish & it's suppose to be used by hand, but will be fine on the PC. Problem is the paint will look great till you wash a few times, & all the fillers go away. I would also not use Klasse sealant on it. While it's good stuff & last, it will highlight all the flaws in the paint, & is to shinny with little depth. This give the car a sterol flat look. FIne for lighter colors but not for yours.
If you want to stop over I have a TON of polishes that are not being used & can give you some. Also have a couple of good waxes/sealants for your color. Pads are super important! The wrong ones can cause damage to the paint. I have some pro polishes that Porsche, Ferrari, MB & BMW use in the factory. Also got some good pads.
Here is what I would do...
1. Wash car with car soap. (don't use dish soap, it strips oils form the paint & usually not wax)
2. Clay, this will put some light scratches on the car. Use a light clay unless you got a lot of crap stuck in the paint. I like to use Griot's clay for well kept cars, that's all it's really good for as it's super mild.
3. Dry car, even all the rubber trim. Remove the hood badge, headlights, taillights,fog lights, side markers, pop the washer nozzles up.
4. Tape all rubber trim, & washer nozzles.
5. Use a mild/medium cut pad & polish on a test area, make sure it will remove the marring.
6. Go to town doing the whole car. I start from the roof, then hood/trunk, & do the sides. Leave the bumpers for last.
7. Go over the whole car with a bright light, making sure you got all the marring out, & find some polish you didn't get.
8. Go over panels that need it, or do your finial polish to remove any polishing marks (really only for heavy polish on a rotary)
9. wax car, & remove
10. Remove tape, instal all parts.
12. dress all trim, clean windows, check out car with light again to makes sure all the wax is gone, & you didn't get trim product on the paint.
13. clean up & rest.
On a pc with a normal marring, it will take about 6-8 hours to polish out the car. Total from start to finish should take about 12-18 hours. Cut the time almost in half for a rotary.
I usually charge $350 for a 3 stage exterior detail. Less if it's only a polish/wax, & not cut/polish/wax. Chances are you need a polish/wax.
I really don't care for most of megs products. IMHO, the pads suck. The speed glaze is a harsh polish, & made for rotary only. The "polish" you have is more of a glaze/filler then polish & it's suppose to be used by hand, but will be fine on the PC. Problem is the paint will look great till you wash a few times, & all the fillers go away. I would also not use Klasse sealant on it. While it's good stuff & last, it will highlight all the flaws in the paint, & is to shinny with little depth. This give the car a sterol flat look. FIne for lighter colors but not for yours.
If you want to stop over I have a TON of polishes that are not being used & can give you some. Also have a couple of good waxes/sealants for your color. Pads are super important! The wrong ones can cause damage to the paint. I have some pro polishes that Porsche, Ferrari, MB & BMW use in the factory. Also got some good pads.
Here is what I would do...
1. Wash car with car soap. (don't use dish soap, it strips oils form the paint & usually not wax)
2. Clay, this will put some light scratches on the car. Use a light clay unless you got a lot of crap stuck in the paint. I like to use Griot's clay for well kept cars, that's all it's really good for as it's super mild.
3. Dry car, even all the rubber trim. Remove the hood badge, headlights, taillights,fog lights, side markers, pop the washer nozzles up.
4. Tape all rubber trim, & washer nozzles.
5. Use a mild/medium cut pad & polish on a test area, make sure it will remove the marring.
6. Go to town doing the whole car. I start from the roof, then hood/trunk, & do the sides. Leave the bumpers for last.
7. Go over the whole car with a bright light, making sure you got all the marring out, & find some polish you didn't get.
8. Go over panels that need it, or do your finial polish to remove any polishing marks (really only for heavy polish on a rotary)
9. wax car, & remove
10. Remove tape, instal all parts.
12. dress all trim, clean windows, check out car with light again to makes sure all the wax is gone, & you didn't get trim product on the paint.
13. clean up & rest.
On a pc with a normal marring, it will take about 6-8 hours to polish out the car. Total from start to finish should take about 12-18 hours. Cut the time almost in half for a rotary.
I usually charge $350 for a 3 stage exterior detail. Less if it's only a polish/wax, & not cut/polish/wax. Chances are you need a polish/wax.
06-30-2011, 03:00 PM
#19
You should also post this in the Concours and Car Care section. You'll get pro advice from Detailers Domain and Glistening Perfection. Plus, there's several detailed write ups on vehicles in pretty rough condition with pics and products used in that section as well.
I did this a few weeks ago:
Wash
Ragg Topp Cleaner
Ragg Topp Protectant
Griot's yellow clay with Meg's quick detailer
Masked all seams, edges, rubber and plastic,
Polish with Porter Cable and 1Z Paint Polish and Lake County Orange pad
The 1Z Paint Polish left a very visible haze on the black paint
Hand waxed with Meg's Cleaner wax which removed the haze,
A few coats of 1Z Glanz Wax
Clean all the dust out of jambs, boot and bonnet.
Good luck and have fun!
I did this a few weeks ago:
Wash
Ragg Topp Cleaner
Ragg Topp Protectant
Griot's yellow clay with Meg's quick detailer
Masked all seams, edges, rubber and plastic,
Polish with Porter Cable and 1Z Paint Polish and Lake County Orange pad
The 1Z Paint Polish left a very visible haze on the black paint
Hand waxed with Meg's Cleaner wax which removed the haze,
A few coats of 1Z Glanz Wax
Clean all the dust out of jambs, boot and bonnet.
Good luck and have fun!
Last edited by Dplus; 12-06-2012 at 08:15 PM.
06-30-2011, 05:03 PM
#20
Dan, it would be nice if you can take a pic of the paint in the sun to show the marring.
I really don't care for most of megs products. IMHO, the pads suck. The speed glaze is a harsh polish, & made for rotary only. The "polish" you have is more of a glaze/filler then polish & it's suppose to be used by hand, but will be fine on the PC. Problem is the paint will look great till you wash a few times, & all the fillers go away. I would also not use Klasse sealant on it. While it's good stuff & last, it will highlight all the flaws in the paint, & is to shinny with little depth. This give the car a sterol flat look. FIne for lighter colors but not for yours.
If you want to stop over I have a TON of polishes that are not being used & can give you some. Also have a couple of good waxes/sealants for your color. Pads are super important! The wrong ones can cause damage to the paint. I have some pro polishes that Porsche, Ferrari, MB & BMW use in the factory. Also got some good pads.
Here is what I would do...
1. Wash car with car soap. (don't use dish soap, it strips oils form the paint & usually not wax)
2. Clay, this will put some light scratches on the car. Use a light clay unless you got a lot of crap stuck in the paint. I like to use Griot's clay for well kept cars, that's all it's really good for as it's super mild.
3. Dry car, even all the rubber trim. Remove the hood badge, headlights, taillights,fog lights, side markers, pop the washer nozzles up.
4. Tape all rubber trim, & washer nozzles.
5. Use a mild/medium cut pad & polish on a test area, make sure it will remove the marring.
6. Go to town doing the whole car. I start from the roof, then hood/trunk, & do the sides. Leave the bumpers for last.
7. Go over the whole car with a bright light, making sure you got all the marring out, & find some polish you didn't get.
8. Go over panels that need it, or do your finial polish to remove any polishing marks (really only for heavy polish on a rotary)
9. wax car, & remove
10. Remove tape, instal all parts.
12. dress all trim, clean windows, check out car with light again to makes sure all the wax is gone, & you didn't get trim product on the paint.
13. clean up & rest.
On a pc with a normal marring, it will take about 6-8 hours to polish out the car. Total from start to finish should take about 12-18 hours. Cut the time almost in half for a rotary.
I usually charge $350 for a 3 stage exterior detail. Less if it's only a polish/wax, & not cut/polish/wax. Chances are you need a polish/wax.
I really don't care for most of megs products. IMHO, the pads suck. The speed glaze is a harsh polish, & made for rotary only. The "polish" you have is more of a glaze/filler then polish & it's suppose to be used by hand, but will be fine on the PC. Problem is the paint will look great till you wash a few times, & all the fillers go away. I would also not use Klasse sealant on it. While it's good stuff & last, it will highlight all the flaws in the paint, & is to shinny with little depth. This give the car a sterol flat look. FIne for lighter colors but not for yours.
If you want to stop over I have a TON of polishes that are not being used & can give you some. Also have a couple of good waxes/sealants for your color. Pads are super important! The wrong ones can cause damage to the paint. I have some pro polishes that Porsche, Ferrari, MB & BMW use in the factory. Also got some good pads.
Here is what I would do...
1. Wash car with car soap. (don't use dish soap, it strips oils form the paint & usually not wax)
2. Clay, this will put some light scratches on the car. Use a light clay unless you got a lot of crap stuck in the paint. I like to use Griot's clay for well kept cars, that's all it's really good for as it's super mild.
3. Dry car, even all the rubber trim. Remove the hood badge, headlights, taillights,fog lights, side markers, pop the washer nozzles up.
4. Tape all rubber trim, & washer nozzles.
5. Use a mild/medium cut pad & polish on a test area, make sure it will remove the marring.
6. Go to town doing the whole car. I start from the roof, then hood/trunk, & do the sides. Leave the bumpers for last.
7. Go over the whole car with a bright light, making sure you got all the marring out, & find some polish you didn't get.
8. Go over panels that need it, or do your finial polish to remove any polishing marks (really only for heavy polish on a rotary)
9. wax car, & remove
10. Remove tape, instal all parts.
12. dress all trim, clean windows, check out car with light again to makes sure all the wax is gone, & you didn't get trim product on the paint.
13. clean up & rest.
On a pc with a normal marring, it will take about 6-8 hours to polish out the car. Total from start to finish should take about 12-18 hours. Cut the time almost in half for a rotary.
I usually charge $350 for a 3 stage exterior detail. Less if it's only a polish/wax, & not cut/polish/wax. Chances are you need a polish/wax.
06-30-2011, 05:07 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
You should also post this in the Concours and Car Care section. You'll get pro advice from Detailers Domain and Glistening Perfection. Plus, there's several detailed write ups on vehicles in pretty rough condition with pics and products used in that section as well.
I did this a few weeks ago:
Wash
Ragg Topp Cleaner
Ragg Topp Protectant
Griot's yellow clay with Meg's quick detailer
Masked all seams, edges, rubber and plastic,
Polish with Porter Cable and 1Z Paint Polish and Lake County Orange pad
The 1Z Paint Polish left a very visible haze on the black paint
Hand waxed with Meg's Cleaner wax which removed the haze,
A few coats of 1Z Glanz Wax
Clean all the dust out of jambs, boot and bonnet.
Good luck and have fun!
I did this a few weeks ago:
Wash
Ragg Topp Cleaner
Ragg Topp Protectant
Griot's yellow clay with Meg's quick detailer
Masked all seams, edges, rubber and plastic,
Polish with Porter Cable and 1Z Paint Polish and Lake County Orange pad
The 1Z Paint Polish left a very visible haze on the black paint
Hand waxed with Meg's Cleaner wax which removed the haze,
A few coats of 1Z Glanz Wax
Clean all the dust out of jambs, boot and bonnet.
Good luck and have fun!
The reason the 1Z polish hazed is you didn't work it down enough. On a PC it will take a lot of time to fully break down the polish. Try to use a little less & work the panel longer. With the PC there is very little need to tape seams, unless you are using to much polish & you just want to keep it out of the seams. Even with the aggressive pad & polish there is no fear of burning edges with the PC. You might get better results with the LC Green pad & 1Z polish. SOme of the haze might also be from the pad. The orange pad doesn't work so well with the PC, same for the yellow one. Make sure you use the PC with speed 6 or you really are not getting any real action with it.
When you are polishing around the spoiler, just put it up. Much better access & easier to get the whole spoiler done.
Black needs more attention, & work. I almost always finish a black car with 1Z's Polish & wax, then wax over that. It helps remove any haze, or minor marring, also leaves a very nice shine.
06-30-2011, 05:07 PM
#22
Nordschleife Master
You should also post this in the Concours and Car Care section. You'll get pro advice from Detailers Domain and Glistening Perfection. Plus, there's several detailed write ups on vehicles in pretty rough condition with pics and products used in that section as well.
I did this a few weeks ago:
Wash
Ragg Topp Cleaner
Ragg Topp Protectant
Griot's yellow clay with Meg's quick detailer
Masked all seams, edges, rubber and plastic,
Polish with Porter Cable and 1Z Paint Polish and Lake County Orange pad
The 1Z Paint Polish left a very visible haze on the black paint
Hand waxed with Meg's Cleaner wax which removed the haze,
A few coats of 1Z Glanz Wax
Clean all the dust out of jambs, boot and bonnet.
Good luck and have fun!
I did this a few weeks ago:
Wash
Ragg Topp Cleaner
Ragg Topp Protectant
Griot's yellow clay with Meg's quick detailer
Masked all seams, edges, rubber and plastic,
Polish with Porter Cable and 1Z Paint Polish and Lake County Orange pad
The 1Z Paint Polish left a very visible haze on the black paint
Hand waxed with Meg's Cleaner wax which removed the haze,
A few coats of 1Z Glanz Wax
Clean all the dust out of jambs, boot and bonnet.
Good luck and have fun!
The reason the 1Z polish hazed is you didn't work it down enough. On a PC it will take a lot of time to fully break down the polish. Try to use a little less & work the panel longer. With the PC there is very little need to tape seams, unless you are using to much polish & you just want to keep it out of the seams. Even with the aggressive pad & polish there is no fear of burning edges with the PC. You might get better results with the LC Green pad & 1Z polish. SOme of the haze might also be from the pad. The orange pad doesn't work so well with the PC, same for the yellow one. Make sure you use the PC with speed 6 or you really are not getting any real action with it.
When you are polishing around the spoiler, just put it up. Much better access & easier to get the whole spoiler done.
Black needs more attention, & work. I almost always finish a black car with 1Z's Polish & wax, then wax over that. It helps remove any haze, or minor marring, also leaves a very nice shine. I use my PC on sp6 with white LC pad.
06-30-2011, 05:57 PM
#23
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 30
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Dplus - I notice something wedged under the tail light and rear reflector. Maybe it's just the reflection in the paint playing tricks with my eyes or is it something to raise the light assembly slightly. The reason I ask is because my rear light assembly sits a fraction too low for my liking, I think the rear bumper repair carried out by the PO might have something to do with it, or is there a trick to getting them to fit properly?
Ash
Ash
