OT: Detailing Advice
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 551
Likes: 2
OT: Detailing Advice
Gents,
Looking for some detailing advice here. Paint is about a year old and is more than ready for it's first hardcore detailing session. The only product I've used so far has been the Glaze below.
There are some minor swirl marks in the clear coat that I'd like to smooth out. The paint is very dry and is missing depth. (I think as a result of prepping it with the clay bar)
Below is a picture of what I have to work with and the stages I've made up and tricked myself into thinking is correct.
Stage 1: Cutting Pad, Fine Cut Cleaner
Stage 2: Polishing Pad, Deep Crystal Polish
Stage 3: Finishing Pad, Klasse Sealer
Any help would be appreciated. Keep in mind this is all I have to work with...
Looking for some detailing advice here. Paint is about a year old and is more than ready for it's first hardcore detailing session. The only product I've used so far has been the Glaze below.
There are some minor swirl marks in the clear coat that I'd like to smooth out. The paint is very dry and is missing depth. (I think as a result of prepping it with the clay bar)
Below is a picture of what I have to work with and the stages I've made up and tricked myself into thinking is correct.
Stage 1: Cutting Pad, Fine Cut Cleaner
Stage 2: Polishing Pad, Deep Crystal Polish
Stage 3: Finishing Pad, Klasse Sealer
Any help would be appreciated. Keep in mind this is all I have to work with...
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
From: Mercer Island, Washington
I'm not too familiar with the Meguiar's products but, I have experience with Klasse Sealant Glaze. If you apply three plus coats of the KSG you'll have a very durable and brilliant shine. Each coat should be applied at least 24 hours apart to allow for curing. Also, you'll need to keep the car out of direct sunlight during the curing process.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 6
From: Michigan
I always like M'grs...and Klasse. I think you are good with what you are using...just pay attention to the details in early stages so the final sealant will "shine". I am sure more knowledgable RL'rs will add some useful info.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
From: Mercer Island, Washington
By the way, what kind of polisher are you using? If you're using a Porter Cable or Griots Garage random orbital you should be fine. I've used my Porter Cable quite a bit and found it to be pretty fool proof (I'm a pretty big fool) I had great results using it on my black C2s.
I also have a Flex 3401 and would not recommend using it unless you have some experience. It's a different animal from the PC or GG...quite a bit more power.
I also have a Flex 3401 and would not recommend using it unless you have some experience. It's a different animal from the PC or GG...quite a bit more power.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: Merritt Island, Fl
Do yourself a favor go to Autopia.org look around a bit and ask your questions there. This forum is where you go for expert advice on 993's that is where you go for expert advice on auto detailing....
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,622
Likes: 17
From: Austin, Texas
Where to start. How much money are you willing to spend on this? Regardless, you should
1- wash the car with dawn liquid soap to strip any old stuff.
2- next clay bar the entire car thoroughly. This is a very necessary step.
3 - wash again with good car soap. I use Zaino, but Meguiars is ok.
4- use a fairly aggressive compound or polish to get out all those scratches and swirls. I like 3M or Einszett. I would go to a forum sponsor detail company and purchase better pads than what is in your pic ( no offense intended). Orange is probably the right answer. Keep repeating this step until you are happy with the finish.
5- finish with a wax or sealant, depending on what matters most to you... Depth and wet vs. Shiny and clinical, longevity, etc. Waxes are deeper and wetter looking but don't last as long and not as protective. The synthetics will be harder, last longer, protect better, but look more shiny and antiseptic if that makes sense.
1- wash the car with dawn liquid soap to strip any old stuff.
2- next clay bar the entire car thoroughly. This is a very necessary step.
3 - wash again with good car soap. I use Zaino, but Meguiars is ok.
4- use a fairly aggressive compound or polish to get out all those scratches and swirls. I like 3M or Einszett. I would go to a forum sponsor detail company and purchase better pads than what is in your pic ( no offense intended). Orange is probably the right answer. Keep repeating this step until you are happy with the finish.
5- finish with a wax or sealant, depending on what matters most to you... Depth and wet vs. Shiny and clinical, longevity, etc. Waxes are deeper and wetter looking but don't last as long and not as protective. The synthetics will be harder, last longer, protect better, but look more shiny and antiseptic if that makes sense.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Saddle River, New Jersey / Corolla, NC
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From: Arkansas
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We won full Concours (Class and Division) at PCA Parade in Performance Modified using Griots products and superglue (for my finger nails).
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 42
From: Hurley, NY
Good grief, isn't machine polishing a little too agressive for year old paint? If the car has been driven in bad weather start with clay (after washing of course), then a good hand polish like 3m Imperial Hand Glaze or Meguiar's Show Glaze followed by a quality wax like P21S or Pinnacle. If you replaced your rear stone guards don't get anywhere near them with a machine polisher or you will be replacing them again!
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,622
Likes: 17
From: Austin, Texas
Good grief, isn't machine polishing a little too agressive for year old paint? If the car has been driven in bad weather start with clay (after washing of course), then a good hand polish like 3m Imperial Hand Glaze or Meguiar's Show Glaze followed by a quality wax like P21S or Pinnacle. If you replaced your rear stone guards don't get anywhere near them with a machine polisher or you will be replacing them again!