immobilizer issues
#1
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I've always hated this thing. Never really understood how it works to start the car. Sometimes I have to press it once, sometimes twice or more, sometimes not at all.
Now it does not seem to want to work much of the time. It can take one to two minutes to get the car to start. I changed the battery which did not help.
Is there anyhting in the car that could be causing this or need to be changed or do I just get a new one (immobolizer not car).
Now it does not seem to want to work much of the time. It can take one to two minutes to get the car to start. I changed the battery which did not help.
Is there anyhting in the car that could be causing this or need to be changed or do I just get a new one (immobolizer not car).
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My immobolizer works in one of two ways.
1) If the doors are locked, I pressed the button on the key FOB once unlocking the door and as long as I turn the key in the ignition within the next few minutes the car starts.
or
2) If the doors were unlocked and I don't want to cycle through the doors locking and unlocking, I then insert the key in the ignition, try to start the car (it fails), then I press the button on the key FOB and then I start the car.
So far the only problems I have had (knock on wood) with my immobilizer is from a weak battery in the key FOB or if the car battery is low. But to tell you the truth, I dislike my immobolizer and wish it wasn't there. One day it will probably screw me.
1) If the doors are locked, I pressed the button on the key FOB once unlocking the door and as long as I turn the key in the ignition within the next few minutes the car starts.
or
2) If the doors were unlocked and I don't want to cycle through the doors locking and unlocking, I then insert the key in the ignition, try to start the car (it fails), then I press the button on the key FOB and then I start the car.
So far the only problems I have had (knock on wood) with my immobilizer is from a weak battery in the key FOB or if the car battery is low. But to tell you the truth, I dislike my immobolizer and wish it wasn't there. One day it will probably screw me.
Last edited by My993C2; 05-22-2011 at 03:08 PM.
#3
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Mike:
If you have already replaced the fob / switchblade battery, you should also have your car's battery checked. If it is marginal, it can cause problems with the immobilizer. Good luck.
One key press should be all you need, for a start.
If you have already replaced the fob / switchblade battery, you should also have your car's battery checked. If it is marginal, it can cause problems with the immobilizer. Good luck.
One key press should be all you need, for a start.
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These remotes go bad all the time also.
My old remote would need to be pressed 10-15 times to disable the alarm sometimes.
I changed the remote and never had a problem since.
My old remote would need to be pressed 10-15 times to disable the alarm sometimes.
I changed the remote and never had a problem since.
#5
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Tell us a little more.
When you say you can't start the car, do you mean it will not crank?
Or does it crank but will not fire up?
+1 on replacing the little battery in the fob.
Have you tried your 2nd remote, if you happen to have one?
Gordo
When you say you can't start the car, do you mean it will not crank?
Or does it crank but will not fire up?
+1 on replacing the little battery in the fob.
Have you tried your 2nd remote, if you happen to have one?
Gordo
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I have the same problem - one car, two different alarm fobs both w fresh batteries (thus likely the car). When doors are locked and immobilizer engaged, you may need to press the alarm fob a few times before the car unlocks and immobilized disengages. If doors are unlocked and immobilizer engaged, such as during a petrol stop, it takes a few presses of the fob for alarm LED on dash to go off and for the immobilized to disengage.
Could it be the alarm receiver on the car going bad?
Rinty, a weak car battery can be the culprit? I have not checked this one yet.
TX
Could it be the alarm receiver on the car going bad?
Rinty, a weak car battery can be the culprit? I have not checked this one yet.
TX
#9
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Mike W, I had the same symptoms as you. Turned out to be not the Immobilizer but the clutch pedal switch. Solution: By-pass it. Do a search and you'll find pictures and write-up. Here's one link to get you started:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ro-switch.html
There are more
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ro-switch.html
There are more
#10
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I had that problem and, after changing the remote battery and doing all sorts of checks on the car's electrics, cured it by bending the metal contacts inside the remote so that the battery fit tightly between the two contacts.
#12
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How can I go about getting a extra immobilizer for the 993 I just bought?The thing scares the Dickenson out of me. Probably going to have it disabled, but it costs $1000, going to wait until winter.
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thanks for all the feedback. I have had problems with this thing almost the whole time I've had the car. Unfortunatley I only have one so I don't know if it's the clutch relay as has been suggested.
This thing seems to have a life of it's own and is getting worse. How expensive are these things and what is involved in programming one.
This thing seems to have a life of it's own and is getting worse. How expensive are these things and what is involved in programming one.
#15
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Mike, it's not a clutch relay. It's just a micro-switch under your pedal floorboard which is supposed to close when you step on the clutch before starting the car. It won't start if you don't depress the clutch and, if the micro-switch is defective or out of adjustment and won't close, your car won't start. The simple fix is to just take it out of the equation by disconnecting the wires from the switch and connecting the ends together. If it solves your problem, great! If not, at least you won't have to wonder if that was the problem.