hmmm....DIY "carbon fiber" ?
04-10-2011, 09:37 AM
#17
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This is the part I'm talking about from Marcus. I checked on it about 2 years for my Turbo. Then it was 500 Euro, plus your core. A new part for Marcus to get was another 180 Euro.
04-10-2011, 03:34 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Simon - I remember seeing your old post and even posted on it...the material you used with non-adhesive was a turnoff for me. The 3M stuff is much easier to manipulate than what you used, although a heat gun with a small nozzle would be preferable than a hairdryer for small pieces.
No HTwo O - Agree that these two pieces are likely the most difficult given their small concave areas...convex surfaces are much easier. A small unexpected issue came up as I did not file the openings before applying the film since I wasn't sure this was going to work or whether I was going to keep it this way...as a result the switches are slightly stiff but they've loosened up since...if I redo these pieces I would consider filing the switch cutouts slightly. The defroster piece and the handbrake tray would be the next two on the list as they are relatively easy to remove - my only concern for the defroster piece (besides possibly dropping a screw!) is that that it would be the most exposed to sunlight.
Still looking for removal instruction for all the dash bits and instrument cluster (anybody?!?
) Maybe I do a piece a week until the whole interior is done...I think the whole dash could be done for less than $100 worth of film?!? Now I'm thinking maybe graphite colored film might compliment the grey/black interior better...might have to get color samples.
No HTwo O - Agree that these two pieces are likely the most difficult given their small concave areas...convex surfaces are much easier. A small unexpected issue came up as I did not file the openings before applying the film since I wasn't sure this was going to work or whether I was going to keep it this way...as a result the switches are slightly stiff but they've loosened up since...if I redo these pieces I would consider filing the switch cutouts slightly. The defroster piece and the handbrake tray would be the next two on the list as they are relatively easy to remove - my only concern for the defroster piece (besides possibly dropping a screw!) is that that it would be the most exposed to sunlight.
Still looking for removal instruction for all the dash bits and instrument cluster (anybody?!?
) Maybe I do a piece a week until the whole interior is done...I think the whole dash could be done for less than $100 worth of film?!? Now I'm thinking maybe graphite colored film might compliment the grey/black interior better...might have to get color samples.
04-10-2011, 04:05 PM
#19
looks like a fun project.
instrument cluster; remove upper dashboard(at this point you'll have done the defroster cover maybe?), after popping out the instruments you'll find that the vinyl cover is just sticky glued in place to the bare metal.
for the dash panels, the hard black plastic is glued to foam, which is then hot glued to the metal dash frame. I think most times carbon or wood grain or whatever is just glued on top of the black plastic while in place on the dash.
the airbag panels do come out, if you remove the lower dash knee pad you'll see the allen bolts for the bottom panel and phillips scews for the top.
instrument cluster; remove upper dashboard(at this point you'll have done the defroster cover maybe?), after popping out the instruments you'll find that the vinyl cover is just sticky glued in place to the bare metal.
for the dash panels, the hard black plastic is glued to foam, which is then hot glued to the metal dash frame. I think most times carbon or wood grain or whatever is just glued on top of the black plastic while in place on the dash.
the airbag panels do come out, if you remove the lower dash knee pad you'll see the allen bolts for the bottom panel and phillips scews for the top.
04-11-2011, 10:58 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
looks like a fun project.
instrument cluster; remove upper dashboard(at this point you'll have done the defroster cover maybe?), after popping out the instruments you'll find that the vinyl cover is just sticky glued in place to the bare metal.
for the dash panels, the hard black plastic is glued to foam, which is then hot glued to the metal dash frame. I think most times carbon or wood grain or whatever is just glued on top of the black plastic while in place on the dash.
the airbag panels do come out, if you remove the lower dash knee pad you'll see the allen bolts for the bottom panel and phillips scews for the top.
instrument cluster; remove upper dashboard(at this point you'll have done the defroster cover maybe?), after popping out the instruments you'll find that the vinyl cover is just sticky glued in place to the bare metal.
for the dash panels, the hard black plastic is glued to foam, which is then hot glued to the metal dash frame. I think most times carbon or wood grain or whatever is just glued on top of the black plastic while in place on the dash.
the airbag panels do come out, if you remove the lower dash knee pad you'll see the allen bolts for the bottom panel and phillips scews for the top.
Any idea how to remove the lower dash knee pad? Or the handle for the gas tank release? Is the HVAC easy to remove....looks like that can also be covered although the dial openings would be a little tricky.
Thanks for the dash info!
04-11-2011, 11:13 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
What do people think...does it look better with the weave running diagonally from lower left to upper right - or from lower right to upper left (take a look at my pic in the OP). I personally think the former looks better.
This may seem to be a small matter but it is not non-trivial. For those thinking about doing this project the reason this matters is that when ordering the film you need to decide what length and width you want, and for large pieces (say if you decide to do the entire center console - it's possible and much cheaper than recovering in leather) or long pieces (i.e. the front defroster vent) you can only orient them one way unless you buy say a 36" x 36" piece (which seem overkill IMHO)
This may seem to be a small matter but it is not non-trivial. For those thinking about doing this project the reason this matters is that when ordering the film you need to decide what length and width you want, and for large pieces (say if you decide to do the entire center console - it's possible and much cheaper than recovering in leather) or long pieces (i.e. the front defroster vent) you can only orient them one way unless you buy say a 36" x 36" piece (which seem overkill IMHO)
04-12-2011, 12:38 AM
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The lower dash is removed with side screws behind a plastic panel on the side, a screw or 2 in the ash tray, one or two in the glove box IIRC, and two damned bolts that are only accessible by removing the CCU and the stereo. When I put the lower dash back on I left those bolts off in case I ever wanted to take the lower dash off again.
04-12-2011, 11:35 AM
#23
knee pad-
like jps writes, although I don't remember the screws in the glove box. I thought the whole thing comes out with the glove box in place.
so 2 screws each side behind the little plastic panels that pop out,
2 screws behind the ash tray(pull the tray out, then access 2 small phillips screws to remove the ash tray, then the 2 big phillips screws are behing that).
the radio has special little keys that are pushed in then pulled out with the radio.
the HVAC has 4 little holes in each corner, push wires or pins in those holes and push the HVAC out of the dash from behind.
feel around behind where the HVAC was located, you should find 2 holes in the dash frame. the knee pad has 2 screws sticking out facing forward, access the bolts through the 2 holes. its tough, I used a socket driver with angles to go down and back into the dash frame. one of the threads was stripped so I had to dremel cut it.
the gas cover handle is just bike brake cable running into the gas cap area. once you open the cover you can loosen the little screw and pull the wire out from inside the car, just don't close the gas cap cover.
I wouldn't try to cover the HVAC face, you'll cover the temp gauge hole and all the white fan and temp settings.
yes, marcus's carbon pieces are thin carbon fiber parts glued on top of the in place dash panels.
theothereric has good pics of carbon for figuring out weave direction.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-dash-etc.html
like jps writes, although I don't remember the screws in the glove box. I thought the whole thing comes out with the glove box in place.
so 2 screws each side behind the little plastic panels that pop out,
2 screws behind the ash tray(pull the tray out, then access 2 small phillips screws to remove the ash tray, then the 2 big phillips screws are behing that).
the radio has special little keys that are pushed in then pulled out with the radio.
the HVAC has 4 little holes in each corner, push wires or pins in those holes and push the HVAC out of the dash from behind.
feel around behind where the HVAC was located, you should find 2 holes in the dash frame. the knee pad has 2 screws sticking out facing forward, access the bolts through the 2 holes. its tough, I used a socket driver with angles to go down and back into the dash frame. one of the threads was stripped so I had to dremel cut it.
the gas cover handle is just bike brake cable running into the gas cap area. once you open the cover you can loosen the little screw and pull the wire out from inside the car, just don't close the gas cap cover.
I wouldn't try to cover the HVAC face, you'll cover the temp gauge hole and all the white fan and temp settings.
yes, marcus's carbon pieces are thin carbon fiber parts glued on top of the in place dash panels.
theothereric has good pics of carbon for figuring out weave direction.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-dash-etc.html
08-21-2012, 10:20 AM
#25
Drifting
08-21-2012, 11:18 AM
#26
Race Car
08-23-2012, 01:46 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Cool. I bought some meguiars wraptivo to try similar.
tried to do button panel without removing but a bit of a fail.
I did manage to cover the flat plane of the console directly
under the handbrake and the scratched up alum handbrake handle
itself. This stuff doesn't like compound curves and corners.
It is tempting to overdo it. I may try wrapping those ugly targa
trim covers that have shrinking leather. I like your door trim.
have also used this on my 335 cab rear console where kids scratched
up hard plastic. Stays pretty cool in heat too. Cant speak for 3m.
tried to do button panel without removing but a bit of a fail.
I did manage to cover the flat plane of the console directly
under the handbrake and the scratched up alum handbrake handle
itself. This stuff doesn't like compound curves and corners.
It is tempting to overdo it. I may try wrapping those ugly targa
trim covers that have shrinking leather. I like your door trim.
have also used this on my 335 cab rear console where kids scratched
up hard plastic. Stays pretty cool in heat too. Cant speak for 3m.
Last edited by jago; 08-23-2012 at 04:35 PM.
08-23-2012, 10:31 PM
#30
Noodle Jr.
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
