Porsche - OEM - OE
#1
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Thread Starter
Porsche - OEM - OE
Just an FYI if you think they are all equal.
Porsche-Stabilus gas-pressure springs for engine lid
I just installed a set of new gas-pressure spring struts that I bought from Sunset Porsche. They ran me a bit more at Sunset than at Pelican or AutohausAZ, the latter two who also carry "OEM" struts for the engine lid. BTW pricing is, $23.71 vs $14.74 vs $14.19, respectively.
I'm glad I spent the extra $9 per strut....
I installed a new set of OEM engine lid struts made by Stabilus on someone's 993 last fall. He had bought them from either PP or AutohausAZ. They sure beat the falling engine lid syndrome; the engine lid also acted as one hell of a great catapult! If you released the engine lid by pulling the T-handle, the lid would rise on its own at warp speed and slam against the stop...not too good for the attach points, IMO. I mean it would hit hard.
OEM? Maybe the same manufacturer, but not the same spring. One set of numbers on my old and new strut matches...might be a version number? In any case, the Porsche units work as they should.
OE Bosch Distributor Caps & Rotors
The same for a set of distributor caps and rotor I bought. Sure, they are OE Bosch, but compared to the original (date code) Bosch units in my car, they are not nearly as well made. The originals are made in Germany, the OE uints I got from AutohausAZ are made in Spain.
The units made in Spain had an extra 3 digits/numbers at the end of the usual Bosch part number format..."OU1"...I bet that is a country code.
I'm sure they are functionally equivalent and might even last as long. I'd just like to know what I am getting.
Porsche-Stabilus gas-pressure springs for engine lid
I just installed a set of new gas-pressure spring struts that I bought from Sunset Porsche. They ran me a bit more at Sunset than at Pelican or AutohausAZ, the latter two who also carry "OEM" struts for the engine lid. BTW pricing is, $23.71 vs $14.74 vs $14.19, respectively.
I'm glad I spent the extra $9 per strut....
I installed a new set of OEM engine lid struts made by Stabilus on someone's 993 last fall. He had bought them from either PP or AutohausAZ. They sure beat the falling engine lid syndrome; the engine lid also acted as one hell of a great catapult! If you released the engine lid by pulling the T-handle, the lid would rise on its own at warp speed and slam against the stop...not too good for the attach points, IMO. I mean it would hit hard.
OEM? Maybe the same manufacturer, but not the same spring. One set of numbers on my old and new strut matches...might be a version number? In any case, the Porsche units work as they should.
OE Bosch Distributor Caps & Rotors
The same for a set of distributor caps and rotor I bought. Sure, they are OE Bosch, but compared to the original (date code) Bosch units in my car, they are not nearly as well made. The originals are made in Germany, the OE uints I got from AutohausAZ are made in Spain.
The units made in Spain had an extra 3 digits/numbers at the end of the usual Bosch part number format..."OU1"...I bet that is a country code.
I'm sure they are functionally equivalent and might even last as long. I'd just like to know what I am getting.
#2
Rennlist Member
is it possible you fitted the gas struts for 993RS to your friends car without knowing? Im sick of relcaing these every five years so this year I took just one strut off and replaced it with the 993RS OEM item. The lid now works firmly but very well. My mechanic insists that the RS strut will last a lot longer than the standard one and now I have a spare 993RS one for later I think I will be fine for the next decade or hopefully two...
M
M
#3
Macca, I think you mean Turbo. RS wing is lighter than stock decklid.
But, I agree that OE and OEM are two very different things and some of the most misused acronyms I have seen on here.
But, I agree that OE and OEM are two very different things and some of the most misused acronyms I have seen on here.
#4
Rennlist Member
Hi Bart. I mean 991 512 331 02 - PET says 993RS but I suspect for Clubsport package with large rear spoiler and probably same as 993TT as you suggest.
Interestingly I did not find the lid with spoiler on my genuine 993RS any lighter than the standard motorised one when i owned it. It looks like they share the same 01 part number so I suspect the weights are very similar....
M
Interestingly I did not find the lid with spoiler on my genuine 993RS any lighter than the standard motorised one when i owned it. It looks like they share the same 01 part number so I suspect the weights are very similar....
M
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I installed Porsche part number 911 512 331 01 as required for a 1995 Carrera 2. The "packaged-on" date is 2010-10-26, so that number would be current.
Now IF an engine lid were heavier due to a large Turbo wing, then I can see upping the gas-pressure spring tension for the weight.
But the Porsche parts catalog only shows one gas-pressure spring strut for all Porsche engine lids; the Cabrio has a different part number.
Now I'd like to see the number stamped on that non-Porsche OEM part.
Both new and old show 0370N...
Gas-pressure spring, rear engine lid – markings (new units – packaged 2010-10-26)
STABILUS
371068 0370N 292/10 AM17
911.512.331.01
Original unit markings:
STABILUS
LIFT-O-MAT
2522LS 0370N 132/03 D 09
Now IF an engine lid were heavier due to a large Turbo wing, then I can see upping the gas-pressure spring tension for the weight.
But the Porsche parts catalog only shows one gas-pressure spring strut for all Porsche engine lids; the Cabrio has a different part number.
Now I'd like to see the number stamped on that non-Porsche OEM part.
Both new and old show 0370N...
Gas-pressure spring, rear engine lid – markings (new units – packaged 2010-10-26)
STABILUS
371068 0370N 292/10 AM17
911.512.331.01
Original unit markings:
STABILUS
LIFT-O-MAT
2522LS 0370N 132/03 D 09
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#10
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Alex.
PET revision 7.9 update 226/21 for 64 bit windows. Illustration 803-05. Item number 20 and (20).
You will see three different part numbers for struts. Each varies in its strength. Coupe, cab and RSCS/993TT. The best way to get longer from the struts is to leave one standard strut and change the other for the RS/TT version. You get just the right amount of pressure vs durability and should see a good 8+ years out of that combo for no additional cost.
M
PET revision 7.9 update 226/21 for 64 bit windows. Illustration 803-05. Item number 20 and (20).
You will see three different part numbers for struts. Each varies in its strength. Coupe, cab and RSCS/993TT. The best way to get longer from the struts is to leave one standard strut and change the other for the RS/TT version. You get just the right amount of pressure vs durability and should see a good 8+ years out of that combo for no additional cost.
M
#11
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From what I understand there is a heavy duty strut and a regular strut. Some guys with Turbos installed both heavy duty struts and got the same catapult action ( I think it is for gt2 decklids or bigger). I bought the heavy duty struts and was told just to install one and it should be ok ( have a turbo decklid). I have yet to install them, which is the easier one again driver or passenger?
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You will see three different part numbers for struts. Each varies in its strength. Coupe, cab and RSCS/993TT. The best way to get longer from the struts is to leave one standard strut and change the other for the RS/TT version. You get just the right amount of pressure vs durability and should see a good 8+ years out of that combo for no additional cost.
Anyway, I'm happy with the extra force.
FYI: the lid stays stationary upon release and in any position (when placed) to horizontal, after which it swings up and requires force to lower. Thats good enough for me.
I just didn't want it failing on me during a roadside belt change under the sun. Thats when things usually fail.
#13
Seared
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#14
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Thread Starter
Do yourself a favor. Get a 24" flexible pick-up tool with a magnet on the end.