993 steering rack DIY rebuild tutorial
05-25-2012, 04:19 PM
#46
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I think my rack is the better and newer version then the one that is posted with picutre
so i don't advise anyone to use the 964 rack on a 993.
anyway these are the following that i have accomplished:
1. removed the input shaft cap cover held by two bolts, and change the " ID Cup seal and the bearing
(step 6 shows the part)
2.Remove treaded cap, spring, Piston and the plastic.
Now here the question:
I could not pull the input shaft out since it being held with a little pin in the shaft itself to the inner shaft!?
I would like to pull the Main Rack Shaft and replace on both end the black cup seal, plastic washer and plastic clip.
Is the input shaft has to come out first or I can just remove the Steel C Clip and pull the main Rack Shaft and it will release the input shaft completely?
so i don't advise anyone to use the 964 rack on a 993.
anyway these are the following that i have accomplished:
1. removed the input shaft cap cover held by two bolts, and change the " ID Cup seal and the bearing
(step 6 shows the part)
2.Remove treaded cap, spring, Piston and the plastic.
Now here the question:
I could not pull the input shaft out since it being held with a little pin in the shaft itself to the inner shaft!?
I would like to pull the Main Rack Shaft and replace on both end the black cup seal, plastic washer and plastic clip.
Is the input shaft has to come out first or I can just remove the Steel C Clip and pull the main Rack Shaft and it will release the input shaft completely?
05-25-2012, 05:19 PM
#48
Instructor
The pin on the input shaft shall not be removed! This shaft is actually made in two part held by this pin, to allow internal oil circulation.
Why you can't get the shaft out is because the big bearing is placed tight into the rack case.
You can gently hit the second smaller bearing that you can see from behind the rack with a soft hammer and a diameter-matching socket (take a picture for reference of its initial position)
This will help the input shaft to come out of the rack (be carreful to its fall...). Put the smaller bearing back in place then (you can use a 1/2" socket extension to push from the interior).
After that you will be able to remove the main shaft (enjoy the removal of the clamp
).
Why you can't get the shaft out is because the big bearing is placed tight into the rack case.
You can gently hit the second smaller bearing that you can see from behind the rack with a soft hammer and a diameter-matching socket (take a picture for reference of its initial position)
This will help the input shaft to come out of the rack (be carreful to its fall...). Put the smaller bearing back in place then (you can use a 1/2" socket extension to push from the interior).
After that you will be able to remove the main shaft (enjoy the removal of the clamp
).
and this is what I did, taped it and shaft came out.
05-27-2012, 12:55 AM
#53
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finish rebuilding the rack, not installed yet in the car.
However before the rebuilt I was able easily to push the main steering shaft on either way and the input shaft would rotate. Now after the rebuilt it is much harder. ( the threaded cap is a half a turn before the green mark and it has less pressure on the main shaft and also the main shaft teeth was greased up)
Is this Normal??
However before the rebuilt I was able easily to push the main steering shaft on either way and the input shaft would rotate. Now after the rebuilt it is much harder. ( the threaded cap is a half a turn before the green mark and it has less pressure on the main shaft and also the main shaft teeth was greased up)
Is this Normal??
05-27-2012, 05:10 AM
#54
Instructor
If you can turn the input shaft by hand I would say that's normal due to new seals.
If you can't (I've had this issue) you may find two origins:
- the seal and bearing on top of the input shaft are not properly placed (need to push it again). To check it: before screwing completely the 2 bolts of the input shaft case the rotation might be easy and then after complete screwing the hardness just increased a lot.
- the 3 seals along the input shaft for some reasons are too big and create too much friction. I gently smooth them with sandpaper.
Anyway without pressure and oil circulation from my opinion the threaded cap position can't really influence the hardness of the rack.
If you can't (I've had this issue) you may find two origins:
- the seal and bearing on top of the input shaft are not properly placed (need to push it again). To check it: before screwing completely the 2 bolts of the input shaft case the rotation might be easy and then after complete screwing the hardness just increased a lot.
- the 3 seals along the input shaft for some reasons are too big and create too much friction. I gently smooth them with sandpaper.
Anyway without pressure and oil circulation from my opinion the threaded cap position can't really influence the hardness of the rack.
05-27-2012, 11:43 AM
#55
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I can turn the input shaft by hand also, but it is very hard. Maybe with the oil circulations and when the wheel shaft get assembled to the input shaft then it will get much better and easier? and also the seal need to break in?
05-27-2012, 12:12 PM
#56
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you were also right about when removing the input shaft cover the turning of the shaft gets much easier to turn, however the bearing and the seal in the input cover shaft are all thew way pushed in, and when placed the cover shaft back in, its get harder to turn the shaft.
Now what?
Now what?
05-27-2012, 02:10 PM
#57
Instructor
Now it's time to go from gentle pushing to one or two stronger hammer shots to this couple of seal and bearing...
For me it worked even if I was pretty sure that it was already in the right and definitive position.
Just make sure that you hit the OD of the bearing, not its ID, but I guess you knew that.
For me it worked even if I was pretty sure that it was already in the right and definitive position.
Just make sure that you hit the OD of the bearing, not its ID, but I guess you knew that.
OD, ID ???
05-27-2012, 06:06 PM
#59
Instructor
Bearing OD is for outer diameter. I meant that you need to punch the outer ring of the bearing.
If you hit the inner ring and as the bearing is tight by its outer ring you may damage the *****.
It's a matter of 1/10 millimeter for the final position. I'm sure it's worth trying from what you describe.
If you hit the inner ring and as the bearing is tight by its outer ring you may damage the *****.
It's a matter of 1/10 millimeter for the final position. I'm sure it's worth trying from what you describe.
