Compromise street/track alignment
Thread Starter
Race Car
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,515
Likes: 245
From: Montreal, QC
Compromise street/track alignment
I currently have a fairly non-aggressive alignment (will post my specs when I locate my last alignment chart) that yields relatively even tire wear using high-performance street tires on track - Dunlop Direzza Star Specs.
Considering the car sees about 4-5K of street driving as well as 10-15 DE says per summer, it has worked out as a fair compromise.
I have a second set of wheels with Nitto NT-01 R compound tires mounted up. No doubt I will need more camber to not ruin the outside edges. How little do you think I can get away with to make these track tires work (without going overboard and ruining my street tires when not on track).
Thoughts and advice from those that have had a decent compromise setup?
PS - I am running Euro M030 springs and sways with Bilstein HD's.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Best,
Matt
Considering the car sees about 4-5K of street driving as well as 10-15 DE says per summer, it has worked out as a fair compromise.
I have a second set of wheels with Nitto NT-01 R compound tires mounted up. No doubt I will need more camber to not ruin the outside edges. How little do you think I can get away with to make these track tires work (without going overboard and ruining my street tires when not on track).
Thoughts and advice from those that have had a decent compromise setup?
PS - I am running Euro M030 springs and sways with Bilstein HD's.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Best,
Matt
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 551
Likes: 2
Funny timing. I have your exact same setup with same rubber on my 17's for the track. I got a semi-aggressive street alignment this morning. I basically told the shop, 10-15 DE days with 4k miles annually.
I'm running to a meeting but I'll post my specs when I get back. Curious to see what others think.
I'm running to a meeting but I'll post my specs when I get back. Curious to see what others think.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,795
Likes: 2
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Matt,
FWIW, here is the link to my thread when I got the alignment we discussed on email.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ight=alignment
FWIW, here is the link to my thread when I got the alignment we discussed on email.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ight=alignment
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,230
Likes: 104
From: Chicago
My situation is the exact same as yours, and same tires too. I run close to RS alignment with a little extra camber thrown in, like -2.5deg. I really should cut that camber down though to increase tire life.
Here's what I requested last time:
Front:
camber = -2.6
caster = per RS spec
toe total = 5 min +/- 2 min (0.08 +/- 0.03 deg)
Rear:
camber = -2.5
toe per side = 10 min +/- 2 min (0.17 +/- 0.03 deg)
kinematic toe = same on both sides, and as low as possible on the autometrics gauge.
Here's what I requested last time:
Front:
camber = -2.6
caster = per RS spec
toe total = 5 min +/- 2 min (0.08 +/- 0.03 deg)
Rear:
camber = -2.5
toe per side = 10 min +/- 2 min (0.17 +/- 0.03 deg)
kinematic toe = same on both sides, and as low as possible on the autometrics gauge.
Race Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 3
From: Wilmington NC
I ran -1.5 fronts and a roughly -2. in the rear, with 0 toe.
Alignment for track depends on how you drive. I drove the wheels (and sometimes tires) off my car and really should have run way more camber, but the happy medium is that I didn't want to shred street tires so this is what I could get away with and be relatively happy for both street/track. My car was very neutral, in fact I had a hard time inducing rotation by snapping the throttle off and trying to get the rear to turn with throttle input.
For the record, I ran Yokohama slicks and would never go back to street tires for track use. Bought them used (and in almost new shape) and drove the **** out of them and didn't care (@ $300 a set why would I?). Keep the front loose, the rear tight and drive it like you stole it
I did!
Alignment for track depends on how you drive. I drove the wheels (and sometimes tires) off my car and really should have run way more camber, but the happy medium is that I didn't want to shred street tires so this is what I could get away with and be relatively happy for both street/track. My car was very neutral, in fact I had a hard time inducing rotation by snapping the throttle off and trying to get the rear to turn with throttle input.
For the record, I ran Yokohama slicks and would never go back to street tires for track use. Bought them used (and in almost new shape) and drove the **** out of them and didn't care (@ $300 a set why would I?). Keep the front loose, the rear tight and drive it like you stole it
I did!
Trending Topics
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,443
Likes: 176
From: Earth
I run -2.2 camber in the rear and -1.8 in the front. On my track tires the rear is wearing even. The fronts are wearing on the outside so I need more camber up front. I am thinking -2.2 all around. Street tires seem to be wearing ok. Just need to flip em midway through the life cycle.
Rennlist Stories
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Talos Takes Your 991 Porsche 911 GT3 to the Next Level for a Cool $1.13 Million
Verdad Gallardo
9 Vehicles Porsche Helped Engineer that Aren't Porsches
Verdad Gallardo
9 Features and Characteristics That Only Porsche People Understand
Verdad Gallardo
I've Written 500 Rennlist Articles: Here's How Porsche Has Changed Along the Way
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Unnecessary Porsches Ever Built (And Why We Love Them)
Verdad Gallardo
Porsche 911 GT3 S/C vs 718 Spyder RS: 10 Categories, One Winner
Joe Kucinski
This Builder Is Turning Heads With Its Slantnose 911 Creation
Verdad Gallardo
Porsche 911 GT3 Artisan Edition Pays Homage to Japanese Culture
Verdad Gallardo
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Verdad Gallardo
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,471
Likes: 209
From: Tacoma, WA
Of course, the compromise settings are also on my brain.
Race Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 3
From: Wilmington NC
Those camber numbers are close to stock. You'll need to get closer to -2.0 for camber in the rear and -1.5 or better up front for any real grip unless you are in green group and run at highway speeds
You are going to burn through street tires much quicker than with a stock alignment, and "compromise" is a misnomer, if you want to really "drive" the car on track, you're going to give up tires on the street. If you do a lot of street driving, then you are about where you need to be without cooking street tires quickly.
You are going to burn through street tires much quicker than with a stock alignment, and "compromise" is a misnomer, if you want to really "drive" the car on track, you're going to give up tires on the street. If you do a lot of street driving, then you are about where you need to be without cooking street tires quickly.
