Matt Lane

I currently have a fairly non-aggressive alignment (will post my specs when I locate my last alignment chart) that yields relatively even tire wear using high-performance street tires on track - Dunlop Direzza Star Specs.

Considering the car sees about 4-5K of street driving as well as 10-15 DE says per summer, it has worked out as a fair compromise.

I have a second set of wheels with Nitto NT-01 R compound tires mounted up. No doubt I will need more camber to not ruin the outside edges. How little do you think I can get away with to make these track tires work (without going overboard and ruining my street tires when not on track).

Thoughts and advice from those that have had a decent compromise setup?

PS - I am running Euro M030 springs and sways with Bilstein HD's.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Best,

Matt

daltvater

Funny timing. I have your exact same setup with same rubber on my 17's for the track. I got a semi-aggressive street alignment this morning. I basically told the shop, 10-15 DE days with 4k miles annually.

I'm running to a meeting but I'll post my specs when I get back. Curious to see what others think.

Paul902

Matt,

FWIW, here is the link to my thread when I got the alignment we discussed on email.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ight=alignment

TheOtherEric

My situation is the exact same as yours, and same tires too. I run close to RS alignment with a little extra camber thrown in, like -2.5deg. I really should cut that camber down though to increase tire life.

Here's what I requested last time:
Front:
camber = -2.6
caster = per RS spec
toe total = 5 min +/- 2 min (0.08 +/- 0.03 deg)

Rear:
camber = -2.5
toe per side = 10 min +/- 2 min (0.17 +/- 0.03 deg)
kinematic toe = same on both sides, and as low as possible on the autometrics gauge.

Matt Lane

Thanks guys. Will love to see the specs posted Daltvater.

Paul - thanks for the background. Eric, thanks for sharing.

Best,

Matt

993inNC

I ran -1.5 fronts and a roughly -2. in the rear, with 0 toe.

Alignment for track depends on how you drive. I drove the wheels (and sometimes tires) off my car and really should have run way more camber, but the happy medium is that I didn't want to shred street tires so this is what I could get away with and be relatively happy for both street/track. My car was very neutral, in fact I had a hard time inducing rotation by snapping the throttle off and trying to get the rear to turn with throttle input.
For the record, I ran Yokohama slicks and would never go back to street tires for track use. Bought them used (and in almost new shape) and drove the **** out of them and didn't care (@ $300 a set why would I?). Keep the front loose, the rear tight and drive it like you stole it I did!

daltvater

This was my alignment from this morning. On a 1,2,3 scale for aggressive street they described this as a 2.5

Total weight without driver and with 10 gallons of gas is 2,860!

MarinS4

I run -2.2 camber in the rear and -1.8 in the front. On my track tires the rear is wearing even. The fronts are wearing on the outside so I need more camber up front. I am thinking -2.2 all around. Street tires seem to be wearing ok. Just need to flip em midway through the life cycle.

Stealth 993

How does it drive on the streets? Any chance you wan to test it out this weekend @ the PCA Auto-X?

Of course, the compromise settings are also on my brain.

993inNC

Those camber numbers are close to stock. You'll need to get closer to -2.0 for camber in the rear and -1.5 or better up front for any real grip unless you are in green group and run at highway speeds
You are going to burn through street tires much quicker than with a stock alignment, and "compromise" is a misnomer, if you want to really "drive" the car on track, you're going to give up tires on the street. If you do a lot of street driving, then you are about where you need to be without cooking street tires quickly.