guardsredcab

Bill, What is the other lift you mentioned that was posted a few days ago? I did a search but couldn't find anything recent. Thanks!

Slow Guy

Edited: Woops, couldn't find the previous PM but I did find the thread link:
MaxJax group buy thread

Again, it's a MaxJax.

NOTE: Moved MaxJax vs. Bend-Pak issues to their own thread.

MaxJax vs. Bend-Pak thread

Slow Guy

Aw......<Blush>
I'll put more photos in another thread and leave this one for more technical info.

Thanks for the compliments though Tim.
We'll be happy to have you join us at Palooza even if you do try to make us like hockey.

IXLR8

Bill, would that be the MD-6XP model from BendPak?

I noticed that you have the car quite far back on the lift. Was that to clear the cross bars on the back portion of the lift so that the forward end of the transmission would clear as you lifted the car? How stable was the car that far back?

Are you referring to the MaxJax? Its on my short list but only if I cut out and then pour a thicker concrete section in my garage floor. I'd also want the same grade of concrete used in machine shops / industrial warehouses.

I'm still leaning towards the Greg Smith Equipment Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 which is fully clear between the longitudinal supports. It looks built!

guardsredcab

Thanks Bill. I saw this one too. I thought you were referring to a lift that didn't need to be bolted into the garage floor. This one is cool but I'm concerned about the thickness of the concrete in my garage floor. It's supposed to be 4", but since I didn't build it, I can't be sure.

jhummel68

Bill,
I noticed in Mike's thread he had to use a press to install the release bearing on the RS flywheel. Would that be required for a stock setup? What symptoms did you have indicating your original flywheel needed to be replaced? Still thinking about that 2 post lift - Christmas is right around the corner.

Keep the updates flowing.
John

vincer77

Mike, Mike... You listening?

Arena993

Just call me State Farm. "Like a good neighbor Arena 993 is there" I am free on Thursday Bill if you need any help.

Mike

Slow Guy

John, I've taken the clutch/flywheel off but haven't started putting the new one on yet. Since I have several other tasks to do I'll wait on putting them back on 'til just before I reinstall the tranny.
I saw in another thread (NSully & Andreas tranny drop ?) where they just used their body weight to get the bearing on. I'll keep an eye out for the thread. I don't know if there would be a diff between a stock PP and a RS PP in terms of how difficult getting the bearing on.
My DMF was making noise, especially when you shut the car off. Sometimes it sounded like a bag of marbles was back there. I will be interested to see how much it can be taken apart, I would like to see what it looks like inside.

Thanks Mike. Now that I (finally) have a good setup for the engine resting on the dolly I feel much better about moving/rolling the engine around. Finally got the transmission MOST of the way cleaned up. I'll hit it one more time after the nasty weather passes through but really, I'm several days from being ready to reinstall it. Doing a lot of parts cleaning but LOTS more to do.

Done today:
Tranny cleaned up
Rest of engine tin removed, inc. rear support bracket
Timing chain cover gaskets replaced
Cleaned up flywheel side of engine (need to borrow a neighbors seal puller to replace the rear seal though)
Replaced the alt & fan belts, cleaned up all associated parts

Tomorrow:
Remove spark plug wires (new ones on order and this will give me lost more room to clean and work on other tasks)
Check torque on intake manifolds
Replace valve cover gaskets (upper and lower)
Clean ISV
Check/clean power steering belt area
Clean parts, clean parts, and oh yeah, clean parts

Will add more photos tomorrow. If anyone wants to see a specific photo of an area on the engine let me know. If I haven't already taken one I can do it.

Slow Guy

Thanks guys. I think I'll be keeping UPS in business for the next few days, at least for the Calif. to Nashville route........ keep those parts coming.

IXLR8

I wouldn't be worried if the load was straight down onto the plate, but it is not. Each leg of the MaxJax with a load on it pivots inwards, so if you are using plates, I'd be installing them as far out as possible.

Originally I wanted to use a steel plate with rebar welded/protruding from the bottom surface into poured concrete that would connect the two MaxJax legs, but when I contacted MaxJax, they couldn't offer any opinion.

Slow Guy

I don't quite understand why they need the back lip on the AL "J" bracket that runs under the crank pulley and is the support for the A/C compressor. The rear lip keeps you from fully removing the "J" bracket. As I see it you would need to remove the crank pulley to get that bracket off. I don't understand why. It would make access to the timing covers (and cleaning the gasket face) much easier.

The last photo in the above post is of the Power Steering belt (orig), more slack than I expected but since it's "toothed" and not under a lot of stress I suspect extra tension is not needed.

Why don't we start a MaxJax thread and put the MaxJax related issues in that? If someone will start the MaxJax thread I'll copy my postings over there so we can keep them all together.

Hey State Farm, I sent my cell phone through the washer last week and had to go back to an older phone. Unfortunately it doesn't have your contact info in it. Call or email me with your numbers please, Mr. Andreas' numbers also.. Mr. Hummel, you too if you please.

Slow Guy

Got the plug wires removed, both exhaust and intake valve cover gaskets done (those new bolts look much better), ISV cleaned and oil level sending unit adjusted.

As for the oil level sending unit I ordered a new gasket before starting this but there is no need. That is a fairly heavy duty (rubber) gasket and it has aluminum spacers where the bolt eyes are, I think that thing can last for at least 1 rem./ install.
I just bent the arm down a little bit but if I was to do it again I wouldn't bother pulling the "bobber" end out of the tank (difficult to get it in/out through that opening) anyhow. Just remove the 6 nuts, pull the sending unit half way out, bend the arm (down) a little bit and reinstall.

If we get some dry weather I'll be doing some cleaning/scrubbing of some of the large parts so I can start to reassemble at least the front of the engine.

More photos:

firesm

Great pics Bill - keep them coming. Once I get the hoist set up, this winter will be all about the suspension. Next winter will be the engine drop - so I'm very interested in everything you're doing.

Slow Guy

Thanks. I would also subscribe to Boulderbobo's thread on his engine drop. It helped inspire me to do this myself.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ghlight=engine