Oil Leak ? (Picts)
#1
Oil Leak ? (Picts)
I am investigating on oil leak on my new 993. Actually it appears as if oil may be leaking from two different locations (one on the passenger side and the other on the driver's side). The oil is dripping from the absolute rear of the car, within inches of the exhaust.
To my untrained eye, the driver's side leak appears to be coming from the valve cover, the passenger's side may as well, but frankly I am not smart enough to figure it out right now.
Thoughts? Oh, let me add the the car is only driven 50-100 miles a month and that the leak is a drip or two every 24 hours.
Driver's Side:
Passenger's Side:
To my untrained eye, the driver's side leak appears to be coming from the valve cover, the passenger's side may as well, but frankly I am not smart enough to figure it out right now.
Thoughts? Oh, let me add the the car is only driven 50-100 miles a month and that the leak is a drip or two every 24 hours.
Driver's Side:
Passenger's Side:
Last edited by Coltranes; 08-30-2010 at 10:17 PM. Reason: Added links to the pictures for now
#2
Both of those pictures seem to indicate timing chain cover leaks. Tough to tell without really getting in there and examining it though. My drivers side timing chain cover is doing the same thing. Just ordered the gasket and grommets from Sunset. Not looking forward to the job but at least from what I can tell the drivers side can be done with the engine in the car.
#4
Drive the car more!
Anyways, looks like chain covers which is a common problem. The rubber seal will age over time and leak. You have to drop most of the exhaust, sheet metal and the engine mount to get to the covers. Its not too bad but a bit harder for the first DIY. Replace both the donuts and the rubber seal on cover. Tightening the nuts all the same in a consistent manner is required to be assured of no leaks. I use a small torque wrench that can do the 7 ft-lbs reasonably well.
Cheers,
Mike
Anyways, looks like chain covers which is a common problem. The rubber seal will age over time and leak. You have to drop most of the exhaust, sheet metal and the engine mount to get to the covers. Its not too bad but a bit harder for the first DIY. Replace both the donuts and the rubber seal on cover. Tightening the nuts all the same in a consistent manner is required to be assured of no leaks. I use a small torque wrench that can do the 7 ft-lbs reasonably well.
Cheers,
Mike
#6
Thanks all for the suggestions. What a great resource these forums are. So the appropriate torque for these nuts is 7lbs?
Anyone venture to guess what a reasonable indy would charge to replace this gasket?
Anyone venture to guess what a reasonable indy would charge to replace this gasket?
#7
Change the grommets first. They are a very easy DIY (all except one that's a major pain, so don't do that one) and sometimes, it does the trick. If the grommets don't take care of the problem, then you can tackle the gaskets (or have an indie do it)
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#8
This could be a 5-6 hour job. At current $100-$120/hour Indy rates, you may be looking at +/- $500 labor cost alone.
#9
They can be changed without droping the engine, but there is a lot to remove, including the engine tin around it, AC bracket, etc, to gain access to the covers.
This could be a 5-6 hour job. At current $100-$120/hour Indy rates, you may be looking at +/- $500 labor cost alone.
This could be a 5-6 hour job. At current $100-$120/hour Indy rates, you may be looking at +/- $500 labor cost alone.
#10
I had leaks in almost exactly the same places. Being the lazy buggar that I am I just bought some grommets and replaced all that I could get to without ripping my hands to bits.
My leak stopped but I was probably just lucky. Be carefull not to over tighten the nuts.
Good luck.
My leak stopped but I was probably just lucky. Be carefull not to over tighten the nuts.
Good luck.
#11
I ask because some other reports that I've read on here mentioned that the engine needs to be removed. Of course engine removal would make the job easier, but does it actually need to be removed, and if not, can the job be done in a professional manner without bending tin and scraping frame members in order to remove parts?
Any input from those that have done the job themselves appreciated.
#13
So, the answer is yes, it can be done, the question is, is your leak bad enough to go through it, or wait for when the engine needs to come out for something else and do it then.
#14
I replaced the seals on all four valve covers last winter and they're still bone dry, just the way I like them.