brucec59

I just repaired three of my old OEM window switches this evening, doing more or less what was described in this most excellent thread by garrett376 back in 2005. But where he used a paper clip, I used a 4d finishing nail, which worked very well and I think is a better thing to use.

Here's the story in pictures.

This is the switch in question. It is the OEM switch. I first was trying this on one of those $12 cheap repros, but I couldn't get the thing back together - the internals are quite inferior to OEM.



If you've ever had a switch break, you know the tell-tale sideways lean.



This is the problem. There is a tab (which you'll see later) that has broken off here.



First, I pried off the top bezel that surrounds the rocker. Insert a small screwdriver in the middle of the long side and pry outward. There are two little clips on each side that hold the bezel on, which you can see here.



Here is the side with the broken off tab, bezel removed.



Here, you can see the plastic tab that is still intact on the other side of the switch.



Next, after removing the white plastic part and spring inside the cylindrical shaft, I drilled a 3/32" hole into the side, right in the center, in the depression left by the broken tab. All three of the switches I repaired had exactly the same depression where the tab broke off. I drilled far enough to go across the cylinder and thru the other side.



I cut a 4d nail to just the right length using wire cutters.



After replacing the spring, I put the cut off nail into the hole.



Here you can just see the cut end of the nail poking out thru the far side of the cylinder.



I put the little white actuator thing back on and put the switch back together. Here is the rocker sitting in the switch body, being held down by finger pressure. The head of the nail fits the notch in the body quite nicely.



When you put the bezel back on, be sure the spring steel things on the sides are under the ends correctly.



I did not do both sides of my switches. Maybe I should have, but if and when I have to go back and do it again, I will. It is easier to drill the hole when there is a depression in the plastic where the tab used to be. I guess I could have tried to break off the remaining tab, but I didn't.

Good luck to you who wish to do this fix and save $12 for cheap replacements or $45 for OEM.

shadow993

You work on your car like I do.....

Work with what you find in your shop.

Mike J

Nice job! Have to remember this one...thanks!

cdmdriver

Great DIY. I am going to file this one away for when the time comes.

911PERVY

Brilliant, another "Muts Nuts" post

AOW162435

Fantastic.


Andreas

JPP

I just replaced one, but I kept the broken switch (I keep everything...) so I'll give this a whirl, thanks for the great write up!

FisterD

Very resourceful Bruce. Nice Job!

1pcarnut

Nice job, I'll have to save this, I think I've got 2 or broken ones lying around. As an aside to those who don't want to repair theirs. I bought the Uro version switch that autohauz sells and like the feel better than the oem. We'll see how it lasts, $15, got it here: https://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...indow%20Switch

TheBen

I have the same replacement switch. Cost me about $15 and its pretty close to OEM and works fine.

lexart

I like the way you roll!

richardew

Great job, however considering the time spent and cost of the part, I just ordered a new one. The drivers side switch sticks going up, so I sort of have an auto up window.

brucec59

Thanks all.

I've been getting by with the knockoffs (about $12 on ebay), but when one of those finally went (on the passenger side, so less convenient to just live with it) it was not like when the OEM ones fail. You can't easily find the center spot and it too easily gets stuck in either up or down position, which is again hard to detect by feel, so I was afraid my battery was going to run down.

I was just about to buy 4 cheap ones on ebay (save on shipping!), when I thought, let me just pop this one open and see what's inside. After a failed attempt to fix it, I thought I'd give it a go on one of my old OEM ones (I save everything, too!). It worked so well, I decided to do the other one - and I just couldn't bring myself to do it without taking pictures and posting here. Then I did the last OEM one I had. Now I have three fixed OEM switches in my car!

Thanks again for the comments.

cosmic_993

just did this fix, thanks for the idea. I made the nail a little longer, all the way through to the back side of the good side. the springs then seemed a little long ( because of the nail in there, so i shortened them a bit also). cleaned the contacts with emery cloth, then a little fresh lube of distro grease.

jakfrost

Great DIY! I decided to go with the OEM from Sunset, 36.00...and forgo the fun of frigging with the Walmart versions. But I kept the old broken one, so its off to the garage for a little R&R, ( repair and reuse! )...

Jim