Help - RS motor mount install gone wrong
#1
Help - RS motor mount install gone wrong
Ok, I thought the motor mount R&R would be cake from all the postings on the board. Well, definitely the hardest part is removing the old motor mount.
While trying to undo the 18mm nut on the right mount, the bolt and nut got stripped within the mount. So both the nut and bolt are spinning within the mount.
How the heck do I remove the mount at this point? Any ideas would be appreciated. I was trying to figure out how this happened? I may have jacked the engine up a little too much??
The jelly sure does smell. A pic of what the mount looks like from Robin's site.
-nelson
While trying to undo the 18mm nut on the right mount, the bolt and nut got stripped within the mount. So both the nut and bolt are spinning within the mount.
How the heck do I remove the mount at this point? Any ideas would be appreciated. I was trying to figure out how this happened? I may have jacked the engine up a little too much??
The jelly sure does smell. A pic of what the mount looks like from Robin's site.
-nelson
#2
Hi
Wow that is a good one.
Perhaps you can cut a slot in the nut to loosen it. You might have to remove some of the engine tin.
At least you can easily get to the top of the mount. Unless anyone has a better suggestion (and they will have) as a last resort cover the engine with an old towel or mask off with newspaper, and then grind the top of the mount off. Have a look inside and go from there. You might have to extract the innards, and I do not know what you will find, but I am sure you can get to the body of the bolt somehow and either grip or kill it.
I say to people when they are undoing these bolts to use plenty of penetrating fluid (and heat if you have access). Also be careful the nut does not bind to the carrier or else you can easily bend/crack the carrier.
If it goes well it is an easy job. I hope that someone has an easy fix for you.
All the best and good luck!
Berni
Wow that is a good one.
Perhaps you can cut a slot in the nut to loosen it. You might have to remove some of the engine tin.
At least you can easily get to the top of the mount. Unless anyone has a better suggestion (and they will have) as a last resort cover the engine with an old towel or mask off with newspaper, and then grind the top of the mount off. Have a look inside and go from there. You might have to extract the innards, and I do not know what you will find, but I am sure you can get to the body of the bolt somehow and either grip or kill it.
I say to people when they are undoing these bolts to use plenty of penetrating fluid (and heat if you have access). Also be careful the nut does not bind to the carrier or else you can easily bend/crack the carrier.
If it goes well it is an easy job. I hope that someone has an easy fix for you.
All the best and good luck!
Berni
#3
BTDT .... but the MM will come out
Check out this stripped MM R&R.
On installation, make sure that the square lugs are correctly lodged into the engine carrier before attacking top & bottom fastners: the floor jack on the case is the trick here .... not cranking on the 18mm nut to raise the engine.
Check out this stripped MM R&R.
On installation, make sure that the square lugs are correctly lodged into the engine carrier before attacking top & bottom fastners: the floor jack on the case is the trick here .... not cranking on the 18mm nut to raise the engine.
#4
A lot of times the impact gun at full torque setting will do the trick. If not, drill a hole into the top of the mount and yank a screwdriver or a center punch etc. in there.
Alternatively, you can undo the two bolts from the top and lift the motor as high as you can. This will allow access to the center rod. Maybe you can access it from there. I personally think the impact gun will take care of it.
Good luck and let us know how you did it.
Alternatively, you can undo the two bolts from the top and lift the motor as high as you can. This will allow access to the center rod. Maybe you can access it from there. I personally think the impact gun will take care of it.
Good luck and let us know how you did it.
#6
Hi I had exactly the same problem. It's relatively easy to sort out. Jack up the engine so you have a bit of clearance between mount and carrier. The bolt has some flats on it just as it exits the mount. Have a look at a new one. You need a very thin open ended spanner (wrench?) push this in between the mount and carrier and this will hold the bolt while you unscrew the 18mm nut. The thin spanner should be 16mm. I had an old bicycle spanner in the garage. If you can't find one just make yourself one by cutting a 16mm slot in some strip steel. Difficult to explain but will be self explanatory if you are stood by the car.
If you were in the UK I would just post you my bicycle spanner.
Good luck.
pp
If you were in the UK I would just post you my bicycle spanner.
Good luck.
pp
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#9
#12
Allow me to add to my initial post .... firstly, the lug is 16mm ( as PP noted correctly), not 17mm: when I removed my 'spinning' mount, the lug was ( as we say in French ) buggered ... so a 17mm worked - as it will with a new mount if a 16 is not handy
Secondly, and of much greater utility ... that 16mm lug is a cast aluminium insert bonded to the rubber bottom cup of the mount .... the 'bolt' one sees in not a bolt, but a stud , threaded on both ends, one end for the lug and the other for the 18mm retaining nut.
Why go into that detail??? Well, if one captures the lug with a wrench as I first described in the link above , and then cranks on the 18mm nut - something must yield: either the nut spins off, or the stud spins out of the aluminium lug .... or the @#*&% stud snaps in two. Either of these three outcomes are equally satisfying .... for the mount then releases the carrier - job done.
So, lock onto that lug with a wrench & spin the 18mm nut!!!
Secondly, and of much greater utility ... that 16mm lug is a cast aluminium insert bonded to the rubber bottom cup of the mount .... the 'bolt' one sees in not a bolt, but a stud , threaded on both ends, one end for the lug and the other for the 18mm retaining nut.
Why go into that detail??? Well, if one captures the lug with a wrench as I first described in the link above , and then cranks on the 18mm nut - something must yield: either the nut spins off, or the stud spins out of the aluminium lug .... or the @#*&% stud snaps in two. Either of these three outcomes are equally satisfying .... for the mount then releases the carrier - job done.
So, lock onto that lug with a wrench & spin the 18mm nut!!!
#13
Thanks Garth! I got it loosened. I just needed to jack the car up a little more and then I was able to get a skinny 16mm wrench in there. All is good now! The left side was much easier after I spent so much time with the right side.
So, just to be sure I installed them correctly, am I still supposed to see my exhaust tips move up slightly as I jack the engine up? Or does that mean I don't have the 18mm nut tight enough? I've cranked to 85 nm.
-nelson
So, just to be sure I installed them correctly, am I still supposed to see my exhaust tips move up slightly as I jack the engine up? Or does that mean I don't have the 18mm nut tight enough? I've cranked to 85 nm.
-nelson
#14
Thanks Garth! I got it loosened. I just needed to jack the car up a little more and then I was able to get a skinny 16mm wrench in there. All is good now! The left side was much easier after I spent so much time with the right side.
So, just to be sure I installed them correctly, am I still supposed to see my exhaust tips move up slightly as I jack the engine up? Or does that mean I don't have the 18mm nut tight enough? I've cranked to 85 nm.
-nelson
So, just to be sure I installed them correctly, am I still supposed to see my exhaust tips move up slightly as I jack the engine up? Or does that mean I don't have the 18mm nut tight enough? I've cranked to 85 nm.
-nelson
The 911 engines 'hang' on their mounts, so the MM is in extension vs. being in compression as for most other cars: when the 993 stock MM fails, it sags .... which is most easily evidenced by jacking the case ... and observing the exhaust tips move upwards.
Fresh stock mounts allow the car to be jacked by the case with no negligable ( if any) tip movement .... your RS mounts are a stiffness level above that, so I doubt that there would be even a fraction of a mm movement after torqued in place as you have done.