Paint protection - too late? Recommendations?
#16
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would like to chime into the detailing discussion. I go the track quite regularly as the original poster is intending. It is always much more difficult to clean the 3M fender stone guards from rubber marks and other tar than the pure paint in the front. This made me staying away from a bigger clear bra solution.
I am generally using "green stuff" with good success on the original paint. Thoughts?
I am generally using "green stuff" with good success on the original paint. Thoughts?
#17
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would like to chime into the detailing discussion. I go the track quite regularly as the original poster is intending. It is always much more difficult to clean the 3M fender stone guards from rubber marks and other tar than the pure paint in the front. This made me staying away from a bigger clear bra solution.
I am generally using "green stuff" with good success on the original paint. Thoughts?
I am generally using "green stuff" with good success on the original paint. Thoughts?
#18
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since I drive and show my car I use a Porsche bra on longer distance trips. Yeah it's ugly but the front end stays perfect and I don't have spend extra time cleaning up the bug juice after a blast through the back country roads.
I've seen many clear bra installations and very few have truly impressed me. It's a pain to keep wax from building up on the edges and as others have mentioned the clear bra does show marks from where the rocks hit it. Again this is speaking from experience on my DD. I also noticed that the bra shrinks slightly with time and leaves a residue on the paint which is very difficult to remove. It's a good solution for a DD but I prefer the regular bra for the Sunday driver/show car. YMMV
I've seen many clear bra installations and very few have truly impressed me. It's a pain to keep wax from building up on the edges and as others have mentioned the clear bra does show marks from where the rocks hit it. Again this is speaking from experience on my DD. I also noticed that the bra shrinks slightly with time and leaves a residue on the paint which is very difficult to remove. It's a good solution for a DD but I prefer the regular bra for the Sunday driver/show car. YMMV
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Roger can you post a link to where you bought the xpel? I'm thinking of using something like this on my rocker panels between shows.
#20
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
These are pretty much my thoughts too. I use the Porsche vinyl bra on the hood, bumper and mirror covers for trip. For local trips I use just the hood portion and touch up chips on the bumper as they come. I've bought a 10 foot strip of 6" xpel clear that I will be putting on the lower portion of the wheel arches. You can buy it on-line for less than $3 a foot. It's pretty easy to install and cheap enough you can always pull it off and try again. I might even try some on the lower edge of the bumper.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Fred, when you repaint your wheel arches, are you using regular automotive paint? I wonder if a rubberized/slightly textured finish would be more durable.
Anyone tried it?
M
Anyone tried it?
M
#22
Drifting
#23
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm using regular automotive spray paint bought from Paint Scratch. There are two shadow-lines to paint within (fender lip and horizontal crease) and its quite easy and quick. I sand with 320 grit, mask with 3M vinyl masking tape, prime, sand, re-prime, then two light top coats and clear. Start to finish it's a 2.5 hour job. The time is mostly eaten up by watching the paint dry between coats (20 minutes per coat).