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Paint protection - too late? Recommendations?

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Old 04-13-2010, 03:54 PM
  #16  
e9stibi
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I would like to chime into the detailing discussion. I go the track quite regularly as the original poster is intending. It is always much more difficult to clean the 3M fender stone guards from rubber marks and other tar than the pure paint in the front. This made me staying away from a bigger clear bra solution.

I am generally using "green stuff" with good success on the original paint. Thoughts?
Old 04-13-2010, 08:12 PM
  #17  
Stealth 993
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Originally Posted by e9stibi
I would like to chime into the detailing discussion. I go the track quite regularly as the original poster is intending. It is always much more difficult to clean the 3M fender stone guards from rubber marks and other tar than the pure paint in the front. This made me staying away from a bigger clear bra solution.

I am generally using "green stuff" with good success on the original paint. Thoughts?
That will strip all the protection you have on the car. Best thing is just a little bit of light polish or cleaner wax. Even a quick detailer can take it all off, but usually only if you got some good wax already on the car.
Old 04-14-2010, 12:23 AM
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1pcarnut
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
Since I drive and show my car I use a Porsche bra on longer distance trips. Yeah it's ugly but the front end stays perfect and I don't have spend extra time cleaning up the bug juice after a blast through the back country roads.

I've seen many clear bra installations and very few have truly impressed me. It's a pain to keep wax from building up on the edges and as others have mentioned the clear bra does show marks from where the rocks hit it. Again this is speaking from experience on my DD. I also noticed that the bra shrinks slightly with time and leaves a residue on the paint which is very difficult to remove. It's a good solution for a DD but I prefer the regular bra for the Sunday driver/show car. YMMV
These are pretty much my thoughts too. I use the Porsche vinyl bra on the hood, bumper and mirror covers for trip. For local trips I use just the hood portion and touch up chips on the bumper as they come. I've bought a 10 foot strip of 6" xpel clear that I will be putting on the lower portion of the wheel arches. You can buy it on-line for less than $3 a foot. It's pretty easy to install and cheap enough you can always pull it off and try again. I might even try some on the lower edge of the bumper.
Old 04-14-2010, 08:12 AM
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Marine Blue
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Roger can you post a link to where you bought the xpel? I'm thinking of using something like this on my rocker panels between shows.
Old 04-14-2010, 10:59 AM
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fast_freddy
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Originally Posted by 1pcarnut
These are pretty much my thoughts too. I use the Porsche vinyl bra on the hood, bumper and mirror covers for trip. For local trips I use just the hood portion and touch up chips on the bumper as they come. I've bought a 10 foot strip of 6" xpel clear that I will be putting on the lower portion of the wheel arches. You can buy it on-line for less than $3 a foot. It's pretty easy to install and cheap enough you can always pull it off and try again. I might even try some on the lower edge of the bumper.
I completely agree about protecting the bottom 1/4th of the wheel arches. I can believe how much of a beating they take. I re-spray mine once every 18 months or so. It's not the aesthetics I'm concerned about, its the rust that can occur.
Old 04-14-2010, 08:34 PM
  #21  
Matt Lane
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Fred, when you repaint your wheel arches, are you using regular automotive paint? I wonder if a rubberized/slightly textured finish would be more durable.

Anyone tried it?

M
Old 04-14-2010, 11:44 PM
  #22  
1pcarnut
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
Roger can you post a link to where you bought the xpel? I'm thinking of using something like this on my rocker panels between shows.
Sure, here you go: https://www.xpel.com/products/bulk.asp
Old 04-14-2010, 11:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Matt Lane
Fred, when you repaint your wheel arches, are you using regular automotive paint? I wonder if a rubberized/slightly textured finish would be more durable.

Anyone tried it?

M
I'm using regular automotive spray paint bought from Paint Scratch. There are two shadow-lines to paint within (fender lip and horizontal crease) and its quite easy and quick. I sand with 320 grit, mask with 3M vinyl masking tape, prime, sand, re-prime, then two light top coats and clear. Start to finish it's a 2.5 hour job. The time is mostly eaten up by watching the paint dry between coats (20 minutes per coat).



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