Cab Top Latch Motor
04-02-2010, 11:15 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
So this afternoon I finally got around to removing the motor and opening it up. Sure enough, the gear has a missing tooth (found the remnants and removed from the casing).
Now I am sitting here is the worm gear out, retaining clip off, cam off, and cannot get the splined shaft out. Going to give it another try tomorrow, but I tried hammering away at a socket resting on the shoulders of the shaft, and it doesn't seem to budge.
Any other suggestions?
Now I am sitting here is the worm gear out, retaining clip off, cam off, and cannot get the splined shaft out. Going to give it another try tomorrow, but I tried hammering away at a socket resting on the shoulders of the shaft, and it doesn't seem to budge.
Any other suggestions?
04-05-2010, 09:56 PM
#18
Instructor
Sean.
04-06-2010, 10:53 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Brian, then you might try whacking away (firm tapping) on the end of shaft rather than thru the socket, perhaps there's more "direct" force transferred that way. As I said, this worked for me but I flared out the shaft end. The steel is soft so easily filed round again. I just maintained a firm tapping rhythm and eventually it freed from the shaft.
Sean.
Sean.
04-07-2010, 12:11 AM
#21
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I love this board. Always someone willing to spend the time to help. The 993 top seems prone to problems. I have had a few problems. Before digging into the latches please take a few moments to clean the sensors on the top lip with electronic cleaner and check the alignment. I have had problems with the top in the past and even had the controller re-soldered only to find the sensors were out of adjustment. It sounds as if your motors may be worn but it is worth the try. In either case the motors and sensors are easy to get to. I think there may have been a recall on the motors but I am not sure as I am the second owner of my car. Also worth checking although someone will confirm this I am sure. Maybe the dealer will pay for the work or at least the new parts.
04-07-2010, 11:01 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I love this board. Always someone willing to spend the time to help. The 993 top seems prone to problems. I have had a few problems. Before digging into the latches please take a few moments to clean the sensors on the top lip with electronic cleaner and check the alignment. I have had problems with the top in the past and even had the controller re-soldered only to find the sensors were out of adjustment. It sounds as if your motors may be worn but it is worth the try. In either case the motors and sensors are easy to get to. I think there may have been a recall on the motors but I am not sure as I am the second owner of my car. Also worth checking although someone will confirm this I am sure. Maybe the dealer will pay for the work or at least the new parts.
Thanks for the input. The motor actually works great, but the cog on the sprocket in the "locked" position is broken. I have a replacement motor on the way, so will go that route and try to do the "no cost" fix on this motor as a back-up.
04-13-2010, 12:26 PM
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Brian, just for future reference - it seems that these motors need to be exercised every month or so, otherwise they tend to stick or worse.
Might not be a bad idea to open the roof a crack every few weeks in the winter. Just the latch motors - you don't want plastic window folding in the cold - that's a patently bad idea.
Might not be a bad idea to open the roof a crack every few weeks in the winter. Just the latch motors - you don't want plastic window folding in the cold - that's a patently bad idea.
01-16-2012, 06:10 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Yep, spot on, Brian and you posted a very good write up on this HERE
BSL: Brian the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open the motor case with a flat screw driver.
To remove or replace or rotate the damaged latch gear teeth out of the way:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly in the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure, OR,
6. Simply rotate the existing gear's damaged teeth to the position that they will not come into contact again with the worm gear (which is what I did - cheap fix).
BSL: Brian the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open the motor case with a flat screw driver.
To remove or replace or rotate the damaged latch gear teeth out of the way:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly in the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure, OR,
6. Simply rotate the existing gear's damaged teeth to the position that they will not come into contact again with the worm gear (which is what I did - cheap fix).