BSL

So this morning I went to lock the top down (had been closed but not locked over night), and the right-side latch motor wasn't fully locking. The top seems to be fully closed and locked down, but the warning light is still on. When trying the switch, the right-side motor will run when the left-side is fully locked, so I am led to believe that the gear is stripped.

That said, I am looking around for a replacement part and was wondering what the difference is between 911-624-056-03 and 911-624-056-02. Would the "02" part be the pre-recall one, or the old part that was replaced with "03"?

TIA!

Andre'

Have you checked your controller - got mine back today from a local electronics shop, and they found a cold solder. Symptoms of your top are similar to mine.

Andre'

944/951guy

I have a couple latch motors from a 964 if you are interested PM me.
But I agree definatly make sure it is the latch motors before starting to replace parts cause that can get spendy.

BSL

pm sent.

I am fairly certain it is the gear in the motor, as I can hear the motor spinning, but not locking down.

nile13

Try locking it down manually. Than unlockiing and re-locking with a button a few times. Report the results (I feel a soap-box urge to say what I think about German convertible tops after owning 3 over the last 12 years, but I don't have enough venom today).

BSL

Well, when I got in the car to leave work, the light went out at the normal interval after starting. Tried the switch to close the roof, and nothing happened as it should be, so for now it seems to be good. I didn't have the courage to try opening it then closing it again for fear it may not work when I am away from home. The weather is a little cool for top down right now anyway (kids "made me do it" on Friday though), so I will play with it this weekend.

How difficult is it to disassemble the motor to check the gears?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

nile13

Disassembling the motor is fairly easy if dirty.

It's not uncommon for them to be sticky after a long interval of non-use, so I would not worry too much. Try it a few time when it gets a little warmer, they usually work themselves into shape and latch all the way.

95cab

I did the motor replace and posted a DIY here last year - very simple, if necessary. The symptoms of the stripped gear for me was that the motor kept running but clicked as the stripped gear passed by the worm gear. The warning light remained on. Good luck!

DAVISRILEY

I can't remember the part #, but I think the a502 recall kit, which has both motors in it, is substantially cheaper than ordering them seperate. I just can't find the recall at the moment to get the part # to check.

Sean Hamilton

Yep, spot on, Brian and you posted a very good write up on this HERE

BSL: Brian the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open the motor case with a flat screw driver.

To remove or replace or rotate the damaged latch gear teeth out of the way:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly in the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure, OR,
6. Simply rotate the existing gear's damaged teeth to the position that they will not come into contact again with the worm gear (which is what I did - cheap fix).

BSL

Thanks much, will play with it this weekend.

Off topic, but what is the design of the boat in your avatar? Looks to be of early IOR era...

Sean Hamilton

You know your boats, Brian. Yep, and like the 993, fat beam with plenty of tumblehome. She's an Aussie Joe Adams 31 circa mid 70's design. I've rebuilt her stem to stern incl' hull, rig and sails and set her up as self tacking for single handed club series and the odd Audi regatta. The occasional H'cap podium, she won the Western Port Challange last year.

BSL

Very nice! I have done my fair share of sailing on a boat built on your side of the world--Sydney 36 by Bashford Howison (unfortunately she is currently for sale...).

Sean Hamilton

G'day Brian.
The below photos of the latch gear innards may assist you:
1. The worm gear and latch gear removed from the splinned shaft. Note the cam, it must remain in its exact position for reassembly to activate and sync the micro stop limit switch.
You may also see the "flared" shaft end ?? - because I didn't think - I whacked the end of the shaft instead of slipping something hollow like a socket over the shaft to whack on the on the shaft shoulder. The shaft end wouldn’t slip back into its case seating so I had to file it back.
2. The stripped latch gear teeth, that worm gear just keeps grinding away at the broken teeth. You may find bits of loose teeth, some burried in the white casing grease which will need to be removed or they will get caught up in the gears and break more teeth off !!

Sean Hamilton

These photos show the "old" latch gear with its broken teeth rotated to its NEW position on the spline shaft so that they do not ever come back into contact and mesh with the worm gear. Compare the photos - they show the fully rotated travel of the latch gear, shaft and cam to activate the stop limit micro switch.

good luck, it's a fun project and cost is nil