DIY - Cab top front latch motor replace
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 213
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DIY - Cab top front latch motor replace
This is a very easy fix, after getting the $1400 quote from my stealership, I thought twice and ordered the motor from Pelican for ~$430. All work was done with cab top open. Took approximately 20-30 minutes start to stop, including running to the basement for the right tools...(stealer said 1.5 hours at $160/each) - which are a small philips head screw driver and a 5mm (I think) allen wrench.
Here's the new motor, vs the motor still in the cab top frame:
IMG_1951.jpg
Unscrew one screw on either side of cab top trim piece.
IMG_1952.jpg
Once screws are removed, gently remove trim pieces - there are several tabs that you have to pull out, but they go right back in once completed.
IMG_1953.jpg
There's the target - readily accessible and waiting for removal - you will see the manual adjust wheel at the end of the motor (unfortunately not pictured - it's to the right in this picture - you will want to spin that to make sure it is all the way open so it's easier to get through the very small hole in the frame.
IMG_1954.jpg
There are four allen wrench bolts (I believe 5mm) that need to be removed - not a challenge.
IMG_1955.jpg
IMG_1956.jpg
Here is the OEM (PO had done the recall, even though the original was working fine). Here's the "aftermarket" vs "OEM" picture - the only way to tell them apart is by the wear on the latching wheels.
IMG_1957.jpg
IMG_1960.jpg
You can see the single plug that needs to be unplugged to remove the original. Once you get the motor out, the installation is a simple reverse procedure - minding the seating of the motor on the frame, but there's not much play so easy to execute.
Well worth it - not even a "1" on a scale of "1 to 10".
Good luck!
Here's the new motor, vs the motor still in the cab top frame:
IMG_1951.jpg
Unscrew one screw on either side of cab top trim piece.
IMG_1952.jpg
Once screws are removed, gently remove trim pieces - there are several tabs that you have to pull out, but they go right back in once completed.
IMG_1953.jpg
There's the target - readily accessible and waiting for removal - you will see the manual adjust wheel at the end of the motor (unfortunately not pictured - it's to the right in this picture - you will want to spin that to make sure it is all the way open so it's easier to get through the very small hole in the frame.
IMG_1954.jpg
There are four allen wrench bolts (I believe 5mm) that need to be removed - not a challenge.
IMG_1955.jpg
IMG_1956.jpg
Here is the OEM (PO had done the recall, even though the original was working fine). Here's the "aftermarket" vs "OEM" picture - the only way to tell them apart is by the wear on the latching wheels.
IMG_1957.jpg
IMG_1960.jpg
You can see the single plug that needs to be unplugged to remove the original. Once you get the motor out, the installation is a simple reverse procedure - minding the seating of the motor on the frame, but there's not much play so easy to execute.
Well worth it - not even a "1" on a scale of "1 to 10".
Good luck!
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Alamo, CA
First of all, thanks for the write up. How does this relate to the teeth breaking in the latch itself? I have functioning motors but they pop out when they seat into the frame. I guess my question is were your motors just bad and stopped working or did you have a similar problem to me?
http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...otor+Gear.aspx
I was goint to attempt to use the above part from Vertex and keep the motors-What is the conventional wisdom out there?
http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...otor+Gear.aspx
I was goint to attempt to use the above part from Vertex and keep the motors-What is the conventional wisdom out there?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 213
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The teeth on both the screw drive and the gear on mine were shot, so when I brought the top down, it clicked when it was trying to seat. I took a look at trying to replace the parts after I removed it and it looked like it was not goint to be very simple, but then again, I had already replaced the motor, so it wasn't a real priority...
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,522
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From: NE Florida
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 182
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne Australia
Brian can you please tell me how can I tell if the recall has been done or not, what do I look for ?
Thanks
Sean.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
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Sean,
Sorry 4 late reply - recall had been done. Since the new motor is exactly the same as the motor they replaced, there are several conclusions: 1) don't do the recall until the motor fails, 2) if you can get the dealer to replace only the failed motor (rather than both) when you go in for a recall, might be worth it and 3) don't expect the replacement motors to last all that long...
Sorry 4 late reply - recall had been done. Since the new motor is exactly the same as the motor they replaced, there are several conclusions: 1) don't do the recall until the motor fails, 2) if you can get the dealer to replace only the failed motor (rather than both) when you go in for a recall, might be worth it and 3) don't expect the replacement motors to last all that long...
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Alamo, CA
Vertex sells that gear and I am going to attempt to replace it as the rest of the motor seems to function normally. My top will not lock too--just kind of pops out and tries to re-seat. Link: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...otor+Gear.aspx
I'll post with pictures some time during the holidays.
I'll post with pictures some time during the holidays.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 213
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*willis,
Very interested to hear how that turns out. I was tempted but the worm gear on mine was also shot. Take some pics through the process, since the motor disassembly looks like a bit of a chore (but I held onto mine in case someone, like you, figured it out!)
Good luck and happy holidays!
Very interested to hear how that turns out. I was tempted but the worm gear on mine was also shot. Take some pics through the process, since the motor disassembly looks like a bit of a chore (but I held onto mine in case someone, like you, figured it out!)
Good luck and happy holidays!
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 182
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne Australia
Thanks Brian. I called Porsche Aus, quoted my VIN and sure enough the recall had been done, but only 4 years ago !? latch gear with broken teeth already !?So you're spot on - the replacement motors don’t seem to have the same longevity.
I had success removing the gear off the splined latch shaft and rotating the broken teeth around to where the teeth never ever come into contact with the worm gear. Reset the cam to activate the limit micro switch and now the cab top closes tight and snug, .... and the warning light now extinguishes as well
BTW,
the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open with a flat screw driver.
To remove or replace the latch gear:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure.
I had success removing the gear off the splined latch shaft and rotating the broken teeth around to where the teeth never ever come into contact with the worm gear. Reset the cam to activate the limit micro switch and now the cab top closes tight and snug, .... and the warning light now extinguishes as well
BTW,
the motors are easy to split:
undo 4 P'head screws and pry open with a flat screw driver.
To remove or replace the latch gear:
1. Take particular note of the position of the cam on the shaft relative to activating the micro switch - needs to go back exactly the same position.
2. Remove the allen grub screw in the back of the shaft cam,
3. Slip off the shaft circlip,
4. Tap out the splined latch shaft from the gear using an old socket over the end of the shaft resting on the shaft shoulders,
5. Swap in a new gear and reverse the procedure.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Cab top front motors
Just had both motors replaced by Porsche dealer. The cost for both motors is $485.
Apparantly, Porsche decided to reduce the price. Surprisingly, if you were to purchase them separately at Porsche, each costs $1100!
Apparantly, Porsche decided to reduce the price. Surprisingly, if you were to purchase them separately at Porsche, each costs $1100!
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Funny thing is that, after changing the top motors, the cab light still comes on as before. To turn off the cab light, I need to press the cab switch each time I turn on the ignition. This happens in open or close top position. Have also changed the switch, but the same thing happens.
Other than a faulty controller unit, I don't know what the problem might be.
Does anyone have any idea?
Thanks for your inputs.