Cab Top Latch Motor
#31
Hey guys, i am at the point where i cant get the shaft out. Ive been hitting it with a hammer and it wont budge.
I want to rotate the gear only since just a single tooth is missing.
I want to rotate the gear only since just a single tooth is missing.
Last edited by gaby1088; 04-25-2013 at 12:26 PM.
#33
Rennlist Member
You know you can flip the gear and reposition it with the broken teeth away from the drive shaft . If you need new gear http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/2...or%20Gear.aspx
Cheers Guy
Cheers Guy
#34
Thanks I did flip the gear but the teeth still catch no matter how much I adjust. I tried Vertex a year ago but they did not have the worm gear with the hole in it. I will try them again though.
thanks joe
thanks joe
#36
Instructor
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Barnsley - UK
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I have just stripped down my motor to find a broken tooth. Has anyone got any tips on how to knock the shaft through so that I can rotate the gear. I have hit it a couple of times but it isn't moving. Not only that the top is starting to mishape. I don't want to ruin it altogether.
Do you think a bit of heat will help .
Lee
Do you think a bit of heat will help .
Lee
#37
Track Day
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunny Seattle (Sammamish)
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Another reason for intermittent latch failure - wire harness short
Great thread you guys - appreciate it.
My problem was the latch motors were rotating into closed position half way through the top close cycle. They would not reset to the proper position on their own. They would reset to the proper position only when the battery was disconnected for 5 or so seconds. After checking the five micro switches for continuity and resoldering the cold joints on the ECU I cycled the top up and down a number of times while mapping the action of the five ECU relays.
It became apparent that the latch motors were getting authority (and therefor power) to close without the first two relays energizing (first two on the left when the ECU is connected and hanging by the wires with the cover off and copper colored relays are facing the drivers seat).
FYI, here's the relay sequence -
when latching 1,2,4 energize
When unlatching 1,2,5 energize
When roof is opening from the closed position 3, 5 energize
When the roof is closing from the open position 3, 4 energize
When the roof is closed and latched closed and the close button is pushed 4 energizes
When roof closes & Latches 1,2 energize for latch cycle then de-energize (cam in latch motors report closed position)
The culprit was a two wire short to frame, located in a hinge point of the passenger side moveable framework of the top. Was able to fix easily, but it was initially a bear to find the problem. I suggest you check the harness by opening the top halfway and following the harness from the top transmission up the front frame where the latch motors are located.
Thanks again everyone for sharing your experience and expertise.
My problem was the latch motors were rotating into closed position half way through the top close cycle. They would not reset to the proper position on their own. They would reset to the proper position only when the battery was disconnected for 5 or so seconds. After checking the five micro switches for continuity and resoldering the cold joints on the ECU I cycled the top up and down a number of times while mapping the action of the five ECU relays.
It became apparent that the latch motors were getting authority (and therefor power) to close without the first two relays energizing (first two on the left when the ECU is connected and hanging by the wires with the cover off and copper colored relays are facing the drivers seat).
FYI, here's the relay sequence -
when latching 1,2,4 energize
When unlatching 1,2,5 energize
When roof is opening from the closed position 3, 5 energize
When the roof is closing from the open position 3, 4 energize
When the roof is closed and latched closed and the close button is pushed 4 energizes
When roof closes & Latches 1,2 energize for latch cycle then de-energize (cam in latch motors report closed position)
The culprit was a two wire short to frame, located in a hinge point of the passenger side moveable framework of the top. Was able to fix easily, but it was initially a bear to find the problem. I suggest you check the harness by opening the top halfway and following the harness from the top transmission up the front frame where the latch motors are located.
Thanks again everyone for sharing your experience and expertise.
Last edited by Itsallgood; 09-17-2014 at 10:31 PM.
#38
I have just stripped down my motor to find a broken tooth. Has anyone got any tips on how to knock the shaft through so that I can rotate the gear. I have hit it a couple of times but it isn't moving. Not only that the top is starting to mishape. I don't want to ruin it altogether.
Do you think a bit of heat will help .
Lee
Do you think a bit of heat will help .
Lee