justin993

great, thanks!
I should have mentioned it was a pss9 - but I think yours was too

ilko

Yep, PSS9. They have a larger diameter, that's why the axle can't be removed using the conventional method.

justin993

OK, thanks
and disconnecting the a-arm is going to mean alignment - but i think you got away without having to do this

ilko

Even if you have to disconnect the A-arm but mark the position of the bolt that connects it to the sub-frame you can get away with it.

justin993

thanks for all the help and informative thread.
I have read a few threads on doing this job, and no matter what there are always questions.
I asked my independent tech too, this is who is telling me it is going to need to be aligned after. I'm still just trying to figure if I want to do it myself, or bite the bullet - take the car in for inspection next week and have it done then.
It's one of those things I found when I thought i was finished - just did upper valve cover on drivers side, oil, and replaced some missing things I found while in there - clutch vent tube, missing bumper screw, torn 90 degree heater duct. Pretty much had the car all back together, then discovered the torn boot.

ilko

It can definitely be done without an alignment. But like I said it's a tedious job. You're probably looking at $500+ in labor if a mechanic is going to do and will have to do an alignment. So you'll have to figure out what's more important to you. Lately my time's been more important to me and I've had certain stuff done by a mechanic...

justin993

thanks- your about right on with the price
and I hear you, i like doing it myself, but can't get too wrapped up in it - need to focus on the business

Novice

It wasn't easy, but was able to pull the passenger side rear axle out, clearing the stock shock. Had to force the axle forward away from the shock while pull the whole axle out the same time. Would have been better with two persons.

I have a 4 post lift plus the scissors jack, which helps.

To install, I used a nylon strap to pull the axle outer end downward, while pushing at the same times.

I am ordering a long 8mm hex bit socket, to properly torque the M10 to 60 lb-ft.

Thank you all for posting; otherwise I would not have try this myself.

Gerry

Mike J

Small hint : Make sure the "long" hex bit you use to torque the shaft to the transmission is of good quality - they twist and throw off the torque wrench. I would rather use a short hex bit, solid extensions. If you rotate the driveshaft, you can tighten one bolt at a time no problem, best spot (ie. max access) appears to be when the bolt is horizontal to the driveshaft. If someone is in the car applying the brakes it makes it easy. Rotate, brake, tighten, brakes off, rotate, brake ..... if not, you can use a bar on the studs for the wheels to hold it in place but its quite a bit harder that way.

Use the same technique on the big nut, brakes on, tighten. Use a good wrench, rent one if you don't have one.

Cheers,

Mike

AZ993

Bumping an old thread... having read through this thread and others which describe jacking up hub in order to pull axle out on transmission side, it appears the necessity to unbolt the shock and/or toe arm to remove the axle is dependent on the type of shock in position.

stock shock body seems to be no problem and apparently pss9 and pss10 are bigger diameter preventing clearance of the wheel-side CV joint.

I’m contemplating this on my car to replace an inner CV joint boot and my car has Bilstein B6XT shocks.

Has anybody with these aftermarket Bilstein shocks (not pss9/10) been able to remove the axle without disconnecting shock and suspension arm?

Thanks.

techman1

I was able to do the hub jacking and removal. Koni FSD shocks. Tight, but doable.

k722070

what is the reason for not disconnecting the strut and suspension arm?
why not disconnect the entire hub and get it out of the way?

AZ993

Appreciate the feedback on the KoniFSD shocks and clearance.

I was under the impression that after disconnecting and reconnecting the suspension arms an alignment is advisable. I was trying to avoid that extra hassle if possible. Maybe I am misunderstanding that and only applies to disconnect/reconnect of eccentric bolt side of suspension arm.

I’m a novice DIY’er so this is new to me.

k722070

correct, only alignment needed only if removing from the eccentric end, and even then you can just mark the eccentric with a paint pen.
the strut/toe/hub connection is pretty easy to remove.
camber and kinematic from hub are difficult, need pb blaster or crc freeze off.
a-arm is brutal, but with toe disconnected there is probably enough space to remove axle, and if not remove camber arm and fold hub out and back.

95_993

Yes, I have Bilstein B6's and was able to remove both axles with a little wiggling to replace the boots.