Winter Project 09
10-18-2009, 02:30 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Things on the todo list are the power steering belt, spark plugs, light weight flywheel, major service kit from FD Motorsports, and transmission R&R by Rennsport. I may go with a 2WD conversion... I've almost sold myself on the idea.
I thought thy connections would make sense without the labels, but it's nice to have a backup for my memory. The engine may not be going back in for a few months :P What you don't see is every section that I took off bolts / nuts / ect has it's own baggy with a label on it heh.
I thought thy connections would make sense without the labels, but it's nice to have a backup for my memory. The engine may not be going back in for a few months :P What you don't see is every section that I took off bolts / nuts / ect has it's own baggy with a label on it heh.
What are you doing to the transmission?
I think a sports car should be 2wd. I'll probably get flamed for that statement
I did the same thing with the nuts and bolts.
Bob-
10-18-2009, 05:43 PM
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
This is actually still up for discussion of all the different parts that may go in. Perhaps billet shift forks and steel synchros. Mostly I'd like to get it opened up and refreshed, 2nd gear doesn't seem as happy as it used to with all of the autocross miles on it. My current thought is refreshing / fixing anything that is wrong or about to go wrong then save up for the g50/32...
10-18-2009, 11:00 PM
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
I already have the golden rod and love it. If I do the 2WD convert then I'll do the SSK as well. I've just never fancied "dimpling" my tunnel cover that I would have to do for an AWD car.
10-19-2009, 12:48 AM
#20
Drifting
Talk to cgfen. He found a way to do the exchange w/o welding. Involved a little enlarging of the tunnel opening, but he wanted to be able to go backwards to stock AWD, so he found a way.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-thousand.html
10-19-2009, 08:21 AM
#21
Thanks,
KrS
10-19-2009, 10:30 AM
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
My car is 80/20 track/street split lowered to a bit below RS. The golden rod won't hit speed bumps no matter how low you go. The golden rod connects the shifter to the transmission and runs horizontal to the ground. The piece that would possibly hit the ground is the short shift kit (for AWD). because the AWD uses the torque tube as a shift box the SSK isn't quite right and extends down below where the tunnel cover is. Some folks have installed the kit and "dimpled" the cover to make room. I haven't done this mod because I didn't want to bang up my tunnel cover.
10-19-2009, 12:04 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
I'm droping the engine / transmission out of my C4S and have gotten to disconnecting the torque tube from inside the cabin. The bolts seem to be 16mm (not 13 as in the diy on pcarworkshop)... question: how the heck do I get them loose? There isn't much room and they're tightened down like crazy, I just don't seem to have the leverage in there to do it. Any words of advice?
Image from the DIY from PCarWorkshop:
Image from the DIY from PCarWorkshop:
i think they are torqued to at least 90 ft lb.
PM me if you need help
Craig
10-20-2009, 09:34 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
All of this talk is making me dropping mine also! This is want I used.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23948407@N04/4028612163/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23948407@N04/4028612163/
10-20-2009, 11:05 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
We are working on a "low clearance" short shift setup for AWD cars. We think it will still need added clearance at the tunnel cover but will be less. Will know more when we get a C4 in the shop
All of this talk is making me dropping mine also! This is want I used.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23948407@N04/4028612163/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23948407@N04/4028612163/
10-20-2009, 01:32 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
What Dan said, the clearance issue is not the shift rod, it is the bottom end of the shift lever and forward rod end. Hard to describe, pics some day.
We are working on a "low clearance" short shift setup for AWD cars. We think it will still need added clearance at the tunnel cover but will be less. Will know more when we get a C4 in the shop
t
We are working on a "low clearance" short shift setup for AWD cars. We think it will still need added clearance at the tunnel cover but will be less. Will know more when we get a C4 in the shop
t
other photo shows shifter length differences
i've got lottsa photos of this process, let me know what you need.
Craig
10-20-2009, 04:31 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
let me know if you design one, it would have come in handy for me, i ended up having to space my TQ tube tunnel cover down to prevent rubbing, see annotated photo where the rubber boot would touch the cover.
other photo shows shifter length differences
i've got lottsa photos of this process, let me know what you need.
Craig
other photo shows shifter length differences
i've got lottsa photos of this process, let me know what you need.
Craig
if you happen to know the clearance between the tunnel cover and the bottom of the OE cup/ball setup that would help.
We played with a prototype piece and we can get 1/2" back on the RS lever setup.
It drops about 1" compared to Non-RS....
10-21-2009, 11:49 PM
#28
Pro
Thread Starter
I'm hoping I can call upon my fellow rennlister's knowledge again. I'm currrently attempting to separate the transmission from the engine. I can get about 1/8" gap all around but it won't go past that point. There is play where the transmission will wiggle a bit, but the dang thing won't move any farther. I've read nsully's DIY and the pcarworkshop stuff (I have a nice DIY manual printed ala boulder bob) and I'm not seeing what I'm missing...
So, is there anything I could have missed that is causing me to be unable to remove the transmission? Or do I just need to beat on it some more (and by the way... don't use those nice ridges and a block of wood to try and move the transmission some more...
).
I've removed the starter, the vent tube, and the 4 nuts to the long bolts. Any help would be appreciated
So, is there anything I could have missed that is causing me to be unable to remove the transmission? Or do I just need to beat on it some more (and by the way... don't use those nice ridges and a block of wood to try and move the transmission some more...
).I've removed the starter, the vent tube, and the 4 nuts to the long bolts. Any help would be appreciated
10-21-2009, 11:53 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
I'm hoping I can call upon my fellow rennlister's knowledge again. I'm currrently attempting to separate the transmission from the engine. I can get about 1/8" gap all around but it won't go past that point. There is play where the transmission will wiggle a bit, but the dang thing won't move any farther. I've read nsully's DIY and the pcarworkshop stuff (I have a nice DIY manual printed ala boulder bob) and I'm not seeing what I'm missing...
So, is there anything I could have missed that is causing me to be unable to remove the transmission? Or do I just need to beat on it some more (and by the way... don't use those nice ridges and a block of wood to try and move the transmission some more...).
I've removed the starter, the vent tube, and the 4 nuts to the long bolts. Any help would be appreciated
So, is there anything I could have missed that is causing me to be unable to remove the transmission? Or do I just need to beat on it some more (and by the way... don't use those nice ridges and a block of wood to try and move the transmission some more...).
I've removed the starter, the vent tube, and the 4 nuts to the long bolts. Any help would be appreciated
You might need to persuade things a bit
Bob-
10-22-2009, 12:01 AM
#30
Drifting
I just did this last weekend with the engine in the car. I assume you have the fork bearing/rod out. I used a pry bar to move the tranny back as it didn't just slide off easily.