nshanny

Hi there,

Do you have a part # for these?

Thanks
nick

David 23

You may not be happy with Pagid Orange for street use. You might do a search on brake pads, and consider another pad unless you are tracking the car. Even for mixed use, the oranges will probably be very loud on the street.

bart1

Go to www.paragon-products.com and download the free PET catalog. You'll use it many times...

nshanny

Thanks for the link. Most helpful.

George from MD

You don't need to do a brake flush unless you want to. Buy an impact screwdriver from Sears or somewhere before you start to loosen the rotor screws. I've never changed my caliper bolts but be very careful about crossthreading them when you put them back in. The procedure is so easy even a moron like me could do it in a jiffy:

Remove wheel
Remove brake pads and retaining spring.
remove wear sensors and tie them up with zip cord (I've done this permanently).
remove caliper bolts (10MM allen)
Insure rotor is loose and not attached to hub (bang it with a hammer)
CAREFULLY lift caliper with one hand and remove rotor with other (or you can take some clothes hanger wire and tie it up to shock mount/springs). Set old rotor down and pick up the new one.
Install new rotor and reverse.

Mike J

I head an interesting comment from a Porsche race mechanic who told me the caliper bolts are not stretch bolts, but Porsche recommends buying new ones since they are pre-coated to prevent them from coming undone. If you blue locktite your old bolts, it will work just as well (if not better).

Cheers,

Mike

Gunter

Only had the 993 for a few days and want to replace the rear rotor and pads.

How does one remove the old pads?
They're held in with a retaining spring which is hooked into the caliper on top.
In order to unhook the spring, it looks like the top needs to be squeezed but the tab is in the way.

How do?

Mike J

Unhook the little retainer (the one that looks like a pen clip), squeeze the center of the retaining spring with a channel lock/vice grips, which will shorten the spring and cause the bottom of the spring to pull up and off the bottom retaining surface on the caliper.

check out http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph..._Rotor_Service

Add you want and more!!

Cheers,

Mike

Mike J

do not forget to take the handbrake off when removing the rotors, otherwise the handbrake shoes will lock the disk on the hub. You should be able to remove the caliper (two bolts on the backside), remove the two phillips retaining screws, and just pull off the rotors.

I wash down any new rotors with brake cleaner since they are often coated before shipping.

Cheers,

Mike

berni29

Hi

I always use a dial gauge to ensure that the rotors are running true. If they run out of spec they may start to judder as they wear. You have to have the wheel bolts done up to the correct tourque when you check them.

All the best

Berni

geolab

I am surprised it wasn't mentioned but I do pass a wire brush and thoroughly clean the hub under the rotor.
The surface is striated like an old vinyl audio disc and very hard. The hub surface is always rusted, and if not cleaned could lead to judder.

Gunter

+1 Mike.

I've done a lot of brakes on different cars without the newer technology like my older 911.
The only puzzle here was the tensioner clip on the 993 brakes.

Seems these factory rotors and pads are original with 100,000 km.
Rotors show noticable cracks on the cross-drilled surface which has a "washboard" appearance.
Pads have worn about 50-60%.

Rotors came off without a problem, I'll eliminate the pad sensors and re-use the dampers with a little goo on the anti-squeal shims.

I lean towards factory OEM parts but they cost more.

Any experience with the Zimmerman rotors? Good? Bad?
Does the Z-coating hold up to prevent rust?
Textar pads? Good? Bad?

Mike J

The washboard look is very common and normal. Cracks can be normal as well, there is a guide in the shop manual to how extensive is consider "too much". Seem to remember a TSB, not sure. Will have to check www.pcarworkshop.com (shameless plug).

Search on Zimmerman, lots of discussion on that. I have them on my car, no issues, but others seem to indicate higher wear and problems with track heat. Not sure.

Not sure what "Z-coating" is...I find even with the factory rotors, and depending on your wheels, you need to touch up the hub paint once in a while (spaced years apart...that is one in a while..). I use high temperature BBQ paint, found the right shade of grey.

I use Porsche branded pads only, I found the Texar (although they should be the same) seem to squeal. There are lots of threads on that, ultimately your choice of course. The pads last a long time for street driving regardless, so that is why I buy Porsche, even if it costs a bit more.

Cheers,

Mike

Gunter

Much appreciated, Mike, Your pcarworkshop is fantastic.

Weissach:
Factory Rotors: $220.- ea. in stock
Zimmerman: $160.- ea. takes 3-4 days

For now, I'll go with factory so I can finish the rear brakes and do the transmission oil change.

Available here at Lordco is Castrol, Penzoil and Lucas 75W90 GL-5 gear oil.
Since I don't know the differences, I'll just pick one?

Before going for one more tour before winter, I want to install a new belt on the dual-distributor with the help of pcarworkshop.