Leander

I'm moving back to SoCal and would like to do everything in one go. Does anyone know how feasible it is to transport my lowered 993 on a U-Haul trailer?

Nollie

I transported mine after lowering it RS heightish or lower on a UHaul. Get some long 2x6s or better and extend the ramp like so UHaul Instructions. I was fortunate to get a newer one.

VNTGSPD

They really don't do well with lowered cars. I suspect that with some patience and various blocks/ramps that you will be able to get the car on it without scraping the underside of the car. However, once on you still need to tie it down which requires you to pull the car all of the way forward against the wheel stop. You won't be able to do this and will instead have to insert another block as an artificial stop.

I think someone once told me that the Ryder trailers are much better but I have no first hand experience.

Where are you coming from? I have noticed that trailers tend to be much cheaper in the midwest, but not enough to warrant buying one and bringing it back. But, if you are heading west, you may be able to buy a trailer and then resell it when you get here.

That's a beautiful car you have, best to not cheap out on it's transportation!

Good Luck!

Nollie

I forgot to mention I backed my car on so I could get all the way forward

jaholmes

The newer uhaul auto transport is the way to go if you can get it.

I have used one a few times without issues. The lower the car the more creative you need to be with ramps. Also, there are areas in the front for the built in tire straps, but there is a bar in front. So an SUV ride height 993 will fit, but a lowered 993 wont. You can put a few boards there to clear the front part of the trailer then you can use the tire strap. But you still probably want to use straps for the back.

I have never had to load it ***-end first. That would be a challenge backing it on.

You may want to run the numbers because you may be able to ship the car enclosed for what it would cost in gas to pull it and probably less hassle.

flatsixforme

I just did this less than a year ago on my lowered 993. I had exactly 4 inches of clearence from the bottom most part of the underside of my front bumper to the ground. Based on this and after measuring the length of the ramp (did this before I picked up the trailer) I was able to calculate how much longer I needed to make the ramp and the maximum rise I could have with my wheel climbing up each successive board. I created the ramps and they worked perfect. I loaded it nose first because I was towing with a pickup truck and the back end pushed all the way forward to the wheel chalks (necessary if you want to use their wheel ratchet tie downs) would be WAY too much tongue weight. The downside to the uhaul trailer is you are forced to pull the car all the way forward and can't center the weight over the axles to acheive a neutral tongue. For this reason, I would load nose first. However, to do this and get the bumper to clear the metal wheel chalks on the trailer you have to build yet another ramp. The trick to this is you have to leave slots for the tie down webbing to still function and not make it too tall to negate the wheel chalk ability...mine was just two 2x8's thick. Go look at a trailer and this will make more sense. Sounds like a lot of work but it only took about an hour to cut and build once the measurements were done. I was moving during the oil boom last year so the transport fees were out of this world with fuel surcharges. This made the hassel of uhaul transport worth the effort.

Good luck, it's very doable...just make sure you have a friend to spot you while you pull it on.

Slow Guy

My 993 is not at RS ride height but it is lowered and I haven't had any problems using the U-Haul trailer. I do have several 2 x 10 x 3's that I use under the back of the ramp to raise both the car and the ramp angle. I also raise the tongue as high as I can get it without lifting it off the trailer hitch ball.

Kein_Ersatz

As others have said, can be done, but you will need shims of 2x6s to clear ramps and front tie downs (depending on how low). Tows easy.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-turb...norpca-de.html

CorrdoBrit

Just don't do it this way....ouch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHskKiHQf9k

Van1

A properly loaded trailer should result in a tongue weight of 10% of the entire load. For a 3100 lb car and 1000 lb trailer you should have roughy 400-500 lbs on the tongue. A neutral tongue weight is less than ideal . Given the rather short length of a Uhaul trailer and relatively centered axle setup, I doubt that one is able to get 10% of the load on the tongue pulling the car in forward. And putting the car on backwards probably does result in too much tongue weight.

Leander

Thanks everyone for some great input. Rennlist is a wonderful place! I got all my planks from Home Depot this morning.

gahnman

I agree. I can see Rennlist is going to be my new favorite site.
I'm actually getting ready to trailer a 911 and have scheduled a U-Haul trailer to use. This thread has been extremely helpful.

I have another question though.
Did any of you strap the back tires down as well? I was a little concerned about the lack of straps back there and was thinking about providing my own.
Overkill?

Slow Guy

The U-Haul trailers have a chain on the back to secure around the rear, personally I don't use it on the 993 but then I'm not trailering the car a long distance. If I was going long distance I probably use some type of strap(s) on the rear but I don't think it's a requirement.

JPS

I taste vomit.

Edgy01

Years ago I hauled my 911 Turbo to New England behind my Vanagon with a UHaul tow-dolly. It actually worked very well! Only dropped below 55 in the Poconos once!