I have 67K on my 993. The clutch seems very high so I suspect replacement is somewhere around the corner. I'm going to try to baby it as much as possible and get by as long as I can. But I'm doing my homework now.

The local shop I've worked with for some time and do trust quotes the following:

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Clutch replacement on your 993; for parts, labor and tax, runs about $2300. Book time on the labor is just under 15 hours, the clutch kit (friction plate, pressure plate, release bearing and all applicable clips) is around $900 (this is a Sachs unit). All in all, this job would take about 2 days to complete, as engine/transmission removal are necessary to replace the clutch.

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Does this sound about right?

many thanks,

JC

 

That's in the ballpark ($2000 to $3000 max). I just spent a while looking for a place in Los Angeles. Here is a link to that recent thread.

 

I have 61k and thought I needed a clutch. Turns out replacing the clutch master and slave cylinder did the trick. Bonus: those two parts were about $200 from Steve Weiner, Rennsport Systems in Portland. Now feels like almost new.

This was diagnosed by a buddy of mine who pumped clutch at different rolling speeds, and then would reengage it. He noticed it would engage at different points, which indicated a fluid issue.

 

I haven't had mine done yet but from what I have seen, the clutch itself doesn't cost $900 unless you include a new flywheel which might run it up even further. Perhaps they have included a clutch slave cylinder and other misc. parts? Also, some have replaced the clutch without engine removal saving time. I suppose it will vary from shop to shop and depends if other work is being done.

ps I bought a new clutch slave cylinder in the hopes that this solves my shifting issue.

 

The clutch repair kit is $800-$900 not including flywheel (DMF). Add another ~$1100 for the flywheel.

For around $1400 you can go LWF which includes all of what you'll need save for extras such as the slave, feed line and T/O fork bushings and bearings.

 

If it's not slipping, don't worry about it.

Usually, if you are going up a hill, & the RPM's go up, but speed doesn't you need a new clutch. You might just need to bleed the clutch, or adjust the pedal.

 

Jclanin - since you have a 96 I would highly recommend going with the RS clutch and the necessary other hardware to make it work. The price will be a little higher but the enjoyment factor will totally outweigh the expense. I did this to my 97 and the difference is really great. In my opinion this is the way the car should have come from the factory. If you can, find someone near you who has had this done to their car and take a test ride - it will be worth you time and effort.

 

I guess I'll update my Porsche budget once again

Is replacement of the DMF a must do or can it ever be reused?

 

Matt,

Given the failure rate of the DMF due to delamination, I would never reinstall one that had over 60K on it since I would likely have to eat the labor to go back in and replace it.

JMHO, of course

 

I'll show my ignorance again today... how do you adjust the pedal?

 

LOL, you remove the floor mat, then the other little mat under the peddles. After that remove the piece of wood, up, wood.

Put a light in there, & you will see the clutch linkage, you can shorten it, or make it longer.

On my C4S, I put all the peddles, so I can heal toe, & still get the clutch when I'm on the brakes. Makes it much nicer to drive at speeds.

 

There is also a tension screw you can fiddle with in the pedal cluster that allows you to set the preload on the pedal spring...that can change the feel as well. You can play with that as well, if it does not work out just screw it back to where it was (i.e. keep track of how many turns you adjusted it by).

Cheers,

Mike

 

Ok... but that just adjusts the height of the pedal itself... doesn't change where it engages, so if it engages "high", it will still engage high, but the pedal itself will be lower. I was thinking someone was saying you could adjust the clutch to change the engagement point.

 

There is no visual inspection or measurement you can take to know how much life is remaining on your clutch (like you can on a 968) correct?

 

Wait, my clutch doesn't slip on hills, only under hard acceleration upshifting. Could my clutch master and slave cylinder be the culprit? Or is that wishful thinking? I have 93K.