vjd3

I've converted my top to manual operation, only using the switch in the console to open or close the latches.

Lately, the operation has become intermittent; I suspect a bad or intermittent microswitch. I opened the top and pulled the switches out; holding them firmly closed, the latches operate.

It's a two-wire connector for each microswitch; presumably, the microswitch closes that connection to allow the latches to move. f I just jumper those pins in the connector, will the latches just operate any time the switch is depressed? That would be fine for my situation since the only time I use the switch is if the latches need to move.

Slow Guy

To answer your question, I'm not sure, but I wouldn't do it as a first step to resolving the problem though.

I would first make sure the microswitches (MS's from now on) are clean, use a good electrical contact cleaner from Radio Shack or most auto parts stores to clean what you can.

Then make sure the MS's are adjusted so they are closed when you have the top fully ready to latch. On mine I have to pull the top down with one hand to make sure the MS's are engaged and just to ensure the latches engage like they should. I do it just to be safe.

If that fails, replace the MS's, they can't be that expensive.

I would rather go that route than jerry-rig something that might have some unintended consequences.

Just my .02

vjd3

Well, of course, it's not ideal ... LOL

I pulled both microswitches out, and checked them with a multimeter; I got continuity when the latches where just barely depressed. I cleaned the contacts anyway, reinstalled, feeling confident ... top wouldn't latch. I opened both side windows, and held down the top on each side trying the switch ... no go. Frustrating.

Took the car home, pulled the switches again, and jumpered both connectors. Bingo ... top latches every time. I'm mystified ... but at least I can close the top again.

Slow Guy

Well there is another part in the circuit and that is the Cab Top Controller but it sounds like that has been eliminated by the bypassing of the MS's. It just sounds like the MS's aren't quite adjusted on the top rail quite right.

BTW, the Cab Top Controller is under the dash, far left side, under another controller box (sorry, don't remember which one it is, search the forums may find it). There are 2 controller boxes "stacked" one on top of the other under the dash. "Cold solder joints" are a big problem with this controller box. Search the forum for very detail info with photos.

JPS

Did you have the cab top motor recall done?

TheOtherEric

Don't forget that failure of the two little roller latches is often caused by ECU faults. When so many of us re-soldered those connections in the ECU, it's often/typically because of this.

Slow Guy

?? Are you talking about the Cab Top Controller?

TheOtherEric

Yes, just electronic control unit generically.

ljugete

My top has been giving me some similar trouble. I keep playing with the switch until it finally latches on. Another problem is the passenger side door only unlocks after a while or when I manually lock and unlock the driver's side door.

TheOtherEric

Do a search on German Solder.